Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Unplug the injectors with it running, check for power on one of the wires and ground/pulse with a test light hooked to battery positive on the other wire. I’m not familiar with that car, but I assume the injector is signaled by the PCM through the ground wire. You may have a bad PCM.
The one bolt you found in the engine bay, where was it located? I’ve done a couple of these heater cores in these Blazers although its been a while since I’ve done it, but I remember removing the blower motor resistor which is located in the engine bay on the passenger side and in behind there you can barely get to a hidden bolt that is used to fasten the whole HVAC assembly in place. Without removing this bolt, the assembly won’t come out…..unless you break stuff. The bolt I was refering to is at 3:15 of the video Eric posted.
The one bolt you found in the engine bay, where was it located? I’ve done a couple of these heater cores in these Blazers although its been a while since I’ve done it, but I remember removing the blower motor resistor which is located in the engine bay on the passenger side and in behind there you can barely get to a hidden bolt that is used to fasten the whole HVAC assembly in place. Without removing this bolt, the assembly won’t come out…..unless you break stuff. The bolt I was refering to is at 3:15 of the video Eric posted.
If you have access to a scanner or code reader that shows live date, perhaps you should see if its showing the misfires or possibly which cylinders are missing. Every Escape I have worked on, I had to replace atleast one coil even when they visibly look good.
If you have access to a scanner or code reader that shows live date, perhaps you should see if its showing the misfires or possibly which cylinders are missing. Every Escape I have worked on, I had to replace atleast one coil even when they visibly look good.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=34531]If the water pump wasn’t working I would think you would have an overheat condition. As for the thermostat it COULD be at issue as suggested I would say make sure you got the correct one. If it was just your temp gauge that was off I’d say it could be an electrical problem but since you also have issues getting the proper heat I’m leaning toward a problem with the thermostat or something else with the cooling system itself.[/quote]
I should have mentioned that I experienced this problem with one of my own vehicles as well. I had a 96 Blazer with a 4.3 that absolutely would not get up to proper operating temps and of course had a cold heater. I replaced the thermostat in it twice with the second one being an original AC Delco thermostat, neither of them cured the problem. Finally I replaced the water pump which fixed my problem. Neither of these vehicles exhibited an overheating condition which does blow my mind. Obviously the quickest, easiest and cheapest part to start with would be the thermostat.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=34531]If the water pump wasn’t working I would think you would have an overheat condition. As for the thermostat it COULD be at issue as suggested I would say make sure you got the correct one. If it was just your temp gauge that was off I’d say it could be an electrical problem but since you also have issues getting the proper heat I’m leaning toward a problem with the thermostat or something else with the cooling system itself.[/quote]
I should have mentioned that I experienced this problem with one of my own vehicles as well. I had a 96 Blazer with a 4.3 that absolutely would not get up to proper operating temps and of course had a cold heater. I replaced the thermostat in it twice with the second one being an original AC Delco thermostat, neither of them cured the problem. Finally I replaced the water pump which fixed my problem. Neither of these vehicles exhibited an overheating condition which does blow my mind. Obviously the quickest, easiest and cheapest part to start with would be the thermostat.
A few years back when I was working at a local garage, we had a customer come in complaining that her ranger’s heater was cold. The gauge would indicate that it was running cold as well. Believe it or not, the fix ended up being a new waterpump. When I pulled the old pump off, I noticed the impeller was completely rotted away. This engine was also a 2.3 4 cylinder. I’m not saying this is your problem, but its something to think about. Good luck.
A few years back when I was working at a local garage, we had a customer come in complaining that her ranger’s heater was cold. The gauge would indicate that it was running cold as well. Believe it or not, the fix ended up being a new waterpump. When I pulled the old pump off, I noticed the impeller was completely rotted away. This engine was also a 2.3 4 cylinder. I’m not saying this is your problem, but its something to think about. Good luck.
A dry lower control arm bushing can make a sound like yours. I’ve seen this happen on a few different vehicles. Sometimes it pops, other times it bangs. I never would’ve thought a dry bushing would make such a noise, but it will. What I did to stop it was
Don’t rule out the wiring harness from the crank sensor to the ignition module. Sometimes this harness will hit the rear exhaust manifold and short out causing no start. This is usually caused by a mechanic that didn’t route the harness right while servic
It sounds like you may have a problem with your fuel pressure bleeding down over night. This could be caused by a few different things, such as the check valve in the fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator, or leaky fuel injectors. As others have said, have t