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I finally got the plugs replaced and I’ve noticed a big difference but I’m still having some problems. First off is fuel milage is horrible. I’m getting about 200 miles if that on a full tank of gas. Usually averages around 180 miles on a full tank. Secondly when driving with either cruise on or holding steady on the accelerator the rpms sometimes jump around. The best way to describe it is its like someone is quickly hitting the gas and letting off. Also I have yet to replace the o2 sensor that’s throwing a p0141 code, o2 heater circuit bank 1 sensor 2. Is it possible that o2 sensor could be a factor in fuel milage? I was also thinking maybe the other o2 sensor could be lazy and just not throwing a code yet is this possible? If I were to analyze live engine data is there anything particular I should be looking at as far as voltages or whatever on the first o2 sensor (before the cat) to see if its ok?
Here’s the codes that came up:
P0122
P0440
p0141I’ve also noticed that the car still does not have a lot of power when accelerating hard. The check engine light did start flashing momentarily as I was flooring it on the highway
Here’s the codes that came up:
P0122
P0440
p0141I’ve also noticed that the car still does not have a lot of power when accelerating hard. The check engine light did start flashing momentarily as I was flooring it on the highway
So I finally got some work done on the problems, pulled the fuel rail and injectors, all the o-rings were shot should have replaced them the first time around, one injector was missing a pintle cap. Replaced all of the o-rings, and the missing pintle cap on the injector on cylinder 2. Car runs and idles a lot better not. Check engine light stayed off for about 50 miles, came back on as I was getting ready to perform a NYS inspection (just my luck). I have yet to scan to see what the code is for. Furthermore in the process of putting the car back together I managed to break a very small vacuum line. I don’t even know where it runs to. It’s a very small gray colored vac line and it’s bundled in with a bunch of wires in the wire loom. Any ideas what this could be? I couldn’t find any references to it on Rockauto.com. If pics are needed to help identify this line I can post some later.
So I finally got some work done on the problems, pulled the fuel rail and injectors, all the o-rings were shot should have replaced them the first time around, one injector was missing a pintle cap. Replaced all of the o-rings, and the missing pintle cap on the injector on cylinder 2. Car runs and idles a lot better not. Check engine light stayed off for about 50 miles, came back on as I was getting ready to perform a NYS inspection (just my luck). I have yet to scan to see what the code is for. Furthermore in the process of putting the car back together I managed to break a very small vacuum line. I don’t even know where it runs to. It’s a very small gray colored vac line and it’s bundled in with a bunch of wires in the wire loom. Any ideas what this could be? I couldn’t find any references to it on Rockauto.com. If pics are needed to help identify this line I can post some later.
I have yet to replace plugs and wires as I’m thinking all the problems revolve around the injector issue I put before your reply. I’ll wait to see what others say then go from there.
I have yet to replace plugs and wires as I’m thinking all the problems revolve around the injector issue I put before your reply. I’ll wait to see what others say then go from there.
So I’ve been out of town for a while and have not had time to take a look at the car for a while till yesterday. Anyways here’s the deal. Upon further inspection I found the misfire being caused be a fuel injector problem. After I replaced the intake manifold gaskets somehow when I put the injectors back in place I screwed up. The little black plastic piece that goes on the tip of the injector before the o-ring is missing. Is it possible to buy the replacement plastic piece I need? Worse case scenario I can get one from a salvage yard. Also I can hear a vacuum leak like sound under the plenum and I’m guessing its coming from that injector with that piece that’s missing. Finally when I pull the fuel rail again is there a way to prevent those black plastic things from falling down into the holes where the injectors go?
So I’ve been out of town for a while and have not had time to take a look at the car for a while till yesterday. Anyways here’s the deal. Upon further inspection I found the misfire being caused be a fuel injector problem. After I replaced the intake manifold gaskets somehow when I put the injectors back in place I screwed up. The little black plastic piece that goes on the tip of the injector before the o-ring is missing. Is it possible to buy the replacement plastic piece I need? Worse case scenario I can get one from a salvage yard. Also I can hear a vacuum leak like sound under the plenum and I’m guessing its coming from that injector with that piece that’s missing. Finally when I pull the fuel rail again is there a way to prevent those black plastic things from falling down into the holes where the injectors go?
I actually bought the car 3 weeks ago with bad IM gaskets. It was leaking externally. I replaced those, everything with that is fine. Driving to work today, I hammered down on the accelerator and it took forever to get to 65. During that time the tach stayed around 4200 rpms. Like I said previously i think its misfiring under hard acceleration. Also when driving home last night i was locked on at 55 and going uphill slightly the rpms went from 1800 to 2500 bouncing around. Im gonna throw plugs and wires on and see what happens i guess
Sorry to keep adding problems here, but I started the car and did a wot when the engine sounded like it had a complete loss of power (didn’t even hit the rev limiter) I noticed arching from the one of the plug wires. I’ll try plugs and wires and go from there I guess
disregard the ticking sound coming from the injector. I unplugged the idle air control valve and the ticking stopped. The car idles fine, why the hell would the iac be ticking like that with the engine off, key on in acc position?
So just for the hell of it I put the car in accessory mode while checking something under the hood and I heard what sounds like a fuel injector clicking, key on, engine off. It sounds like the injector on the back side closest to the drivers side fender. I’m guessing that’s not normal and could that be causing the above mentioned problems?