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When I got my car with 250,000 miles on it, the oil looked bad too. Here is how I de-gunked my engine. Put 1 quart of automatic transmission fluid, and 3 quarts of oil. Then drove it around for a few days, and did another oil change. Use good oil filters.
Quoted From David Zitterich:
Honda Service Bulletin: 04-004 Rough idle at cold start and may or may not set trouble codes P0107, P0108. Moisture freezes up in the map sensor and cause wrong voltage readings.
How do Honda Service Bulletins work? Should I go to the dealer and ask them to perform Bulletin 04-004?
Will they charge me an arm and a leg? Should I just ask for the parts and do it myself?Thanks for the bulletin info.
Turns out my brake pads where gone anyway. Just happen to make noise after the axle job.
How does my dash temp gauge work? Does it get it readings from the coolant temp sensor? Dash temp gauge seems to work find. Hoping that will help point me to the trouble. Ran code scanner. No codes.
Quoted From philh:
So, is it “good enough” to just mark the distributor and re-align? (and let the ECU adjust the timing)?
Or, is it worth it to go through the process of setting the timing?
Thanks!
The marking idea will work.
That said, timing is not to hard. May want to give it a try so you feel more confident.November 20, 2011 at 11:00 am in reply to: lower ball joint removal without a special toolsCclamps) #448966Don’t think you need any special tools on a 1999 Honda Civic DX.
Make sure you can not move the battery cable by hand.
Make sure you can not move the battery cable by hand.
Make sure you can not move the battery cable by hand.
Turned out that the cable in the cab had popped loose.
Made this video showing how I fixed it:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ouMZ5gJe104Quoted From accordhp:
On my Accord, the power steering pump has some very light seepage that seems to make its way onto the belt. I will occassionally get a slight squeal (for about a second) on startup. You might want to check on the underside of the pump to see if there are any signs of leaks.
Thanks for this tip. My neighbor has some spray on the inside of their hood. Bet that is what is going on with theirs.
October 5, 2011 at 11:00 am in reply to: Tricks to disconnecting a stubborn wiring harness connector? #456348If you could post some pictures of the connector, I will make a video showing some of my tricks. My main concern is there is one type of connector that is an anchor, but looks like a connector. I have never broken one yet, and don’t know what I would do if I did break one. Not sure where to buy those connectors, and they look expensive. Would most likely have to get one from a junk yard and splice it in. The main thing is to understand what type of connector you have. Once you understand how it works, you can apply the correct tricks. Most of the ones I end up working on, just have a tab you lift, before you start pulling. Often I can just lift the tab, and use a large flat head screw driver. There is usually two ridges where the connector meets. I just put the screw driver there, and give it a twist. Don’t try and do the whole thing from one spot. Just get movement, then move the screw driver to another spot. Try for opposite sides.
Hope my rambling helps. Kind of hard to explain it. Easier to see it.
October 3, 2011 at 11:00 am in reply to: Tricks to disconnecting a stubborn wiring harness connector? #456344What year and model, and which connector?
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