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LOL. First thing I was thinking was fuses, but then I saw how bad your distribute looked, and was focused on that.
Also, check you gas. They may have changed on you. As they put more ethanol in, you will see a drop in gas mileage.
Summer and winter blends will change your mileage a lot.Also, use the grommet from your stock air filter, for your air temp sensor, on you short air intake. Most grommets that come with the short air intakes are to think for the air temp sensor.
Pull your heat shield and check your exhaust manifold for cracks.
Know when to turn down a job. Don’t want to change spark plugs on an engine, where you have to pull the motor to get at them.
Quoted From EricTheCarGuy:
They aren’t that heavy but as I said in my last post if you used sealant on the oil pan gasket you could have caused the leak, the oil behind the cover is quite normal with an oil pan gasket leak as the oil tends to collect in this area, also there is no ‘oil’ in the clutch assembly if it was leaking from the rear it could be the rear main seal but once again I can actually SEE the orange sealant all around the outside of your oil pan, I would suggest removing the oil pan, cleaning the area and installing a new gasket without sealant.
Do you use a touch of Hondobond on the corners? Or just put the gasket in, as is?
Guess what. My exhaust manifold in my D16Y7 is cracked. Did not realize the catalytic converter was part of the exhaust manifold on this engine. What a dumb design. So I am thinking of getting a 4-2-1 stainless steal exhaust header and relocating the cat to the bottom. Have to research to see if I can bolt it on, or if I will have to make some pipe. Will have to extend my 02 sensor wires. Funny how you can “upgrade” for cheaper then replacing the exhaust/cat combo. Well labor for me is free 🙂
Pull your heat shield off, and see if you have a crack in your exhaust manifold.
Also, reset your timing.
Do you have a short air intake filter?Quoted From Grinder4679:
I have checked all that. I have 12 volts from + to ground. But not to + and neg. Could i run another ground???
What does this mean? Can you describe the test, or shoot a quick video?
Welcome to the Civic world. 92 through 2000 can use many of the same parts. You can almost take apart a whole engine with just a 10mm and 12mm socket. $300 and you can have another engine to pull parts off of. Some time as low as $50. Stick to stock. But if you want to take a walk on the wild side, you can put a higher end exhaust manifold on, and pick up a few extra HP. Be careful. Once you do that, you start upgrading your intake manifold, short air intake, B18 🙂
Was asking for some guy who had an OBD2 to OBD1 harness. He could not get his CEL codes to flash. Found out that A13, is just the CEL light on the dash. D4 is what the Service Connector goes to.
Update. Have a friend who is good at making things from scratch. So I asked him. He showed me how he makes his benches. Just get your plywood and rip it long ways. Now you have two bench tops. I am just building one for now. Then you get some 2x4s that are 8 feet long. They are the same length at the plywood. Just frame them to the bottom of the plywood. Then cut some 4x4s for legs. Got all the wood for $25. Will make a video if it works. I should frame near the bottom, but am going to try it with out for now.
I vote for bad motor mount. Also check your shocks and struts. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=80C2N9ecSj4
Guess what. Those are not the colors!
Had to break out the multi meter and test them out.
The wires had extra white/silver strips on them.
The other end of the wires go to C507 Terminals 11-16 and Terminals 7-10.
Could not find these Terminals 11-16 or 7-10 anywhere. Figured out they are talking about pins 11 through 16, and 7 through 10, on connector C507.
Now I just have to figure out where the short is coming from 🙁