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What engine do you have? Also, the 4l60e is an electronically controlled transmission and will need a stand alone computer to work with your engine.
Their is a screen on the fresh air duct. It is ment to keep out bugs, leaves and other large debris from entering the cabin of the vehicle. It will let in dirt and smaller debris that will fit with in the screen opening.
That gauge only shows low side pressure. And shows the a/c is probably over filled. And some refrigerant needs to be removed. To properly diagnos the issue with your a/c, it would be best to use a/c gauges that connects to both low and high side of your a/c. Start the engine and see what your pressures are.
To make it easier to turn the engine, take out all the spark plugs first. I don’t know what socket size is needed. And you turn the engine clock wise .
When you go from N/A to forced induction an ECM recalibration will be needed. That’s because the ECM is programed for a stock engine. When a mod like like a turbo is added, those program perametets are way off on the ECM may not be able adjust to those readings and give you that C/E light.
A 4.8 is capable of making a good amout of power. A cam, intake, head work, exhaust and an ECM tune and that engine will be capable of making 350+ hp. Good thing about that is you can save up for each upgrade.
As long as you change your oil and filter on a regular basis, you shouldn’t have any issues. Every time I change my oil, I change the filter as well. Their are other people who change their filter every other oil change. It’s ok to change your oil filter every other change if you change olyour oil every 3000 miles. The thing I don’t like about filter change every other oil change is that some change intervals are 5000+ miles. If you do change your oil and filter at 5000+ mile intervals, I would recommend using semi or full synthetic oil. Synthetic oil may cost more but the longer oil change intervals will make up for the proce.
Nothing wrong in buying used tires. If money is an issue, buy a pair of tires and make sure those two tires are mounted on the dame axle. When you buy two tires, have the pair of tires that are in the best condition on the rear axle even if those two tires are the two used ones you just bought. Also, get an alignment when you buy new or used tires to get the longest wear out of them.
I use my 327 with the OBD CAR DOCTOR app. It has a lot of pids from Engine temp, RPM, O2 voltage, APP, throttle position and MAF readings. It’s a good app for the diy person but its not as good as vehicle specific scanners or the Snap On Verus or Modus.
I take my drums to O’reillys to have them turned. It cost $15 per drum/rotor to turn them. When drums or rotors are turned, a small amount of material is removed to make them true again. Sometimes it comes to a point in which drums have reached their maximum diameter or rotors have reached their minimum thickness, at that point they would have to be replaced. A shop or store will mic them before being turned and will tell you if they can be resurfaced or need to be replaced. Those numbers are usually stamped onto the drum or rotor.
By rotating the drums, do you mean swping them from side to side? If so, it doesn’t matter what side a just turned drum goes back on. You shouldn’t swap sides after the drums have been on the vehicle for a while without turning them first. Thats because drums and rotors wear to the brake shoes/padds.
And it would be a good idea to chalk both the front and back of both front wheels. Make sure the vehicle is on a level serface l. Do not set the park brake because you will not be able to remove the drums if the park brake is set. And set the rear of the vehicle on jack stands DO NOT LEAVE THE VEHICLE ON THE JACK!!!
As far as brake lathes, unless you are a shop or do lots of brake work at home, they are too expensive to buy. Be best to tske them to a shop or parts store to have them turned.
If your K1500 has a solid front axle, only toe can be done. If it has independent front suspension a camber, caster and toe alignment can be done Just make sure all ball joints and bushing are ok. If you have a bad joint or bushing, they will have to be replaced before an alignment can be done.
If you have access to a scanner that can read downstream O2 readings, and the readings fluctuate at a high rate like the upstream O2, it would usually indicate a bad cat. Downstream readings should remain steady. If you have a misfire in which the spark plug isn’t firing, raw fuel is being sent down the exhaust onto the cat which will ruin it. Pieces from inside of the cat may have broken off. If you can, hit the cat with your hand and if you hear any rattling, pieces have broken off and the cat is ruined. Also, if interior parts of the cat have broken off, pieces may have gone down the rest of the exhaust system.