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Bent valves will probably make firecracker noises when timing belt is now changed. Still worth a try.
Check with junkyard for engine or look for rebuilt engine, whichever is in budget. GLWrong brake pads? Organic? Ceramic?
Too much brake grease on brake pad ends contaminated brake pad(s)?
If it has a distributor- oil might have gotten through the seal and into ignitor, thus causing it to stall. My car did this and since the distributor was old/worn out I got another one. Gl
Credits to Eric, I removed the cam cage and put new o rings. Hard to believe the bolts were torqued as it took some strength to take them out. The old o rings had some flexibility, but broke easily.
Cam cage is in but I haven’t done any tightening. Will go back to study how to reinstall cage. I’m very proud of myself.
Finding a good Saab or vw technician is very hard. From what I hear most techs just get frustrated with those brands
On my car- I set the timing with a timing light and it helped (no more running hot). I also noticed the reservoir tube was weak and collapsing (this might cause the fluid not to go into the radiator). So that needs to be changed.
Ok so I had a tech friend help me and we did the valve cover gasket and tubes, no o rings. So now tubes 3 and 4 have small leakes and not 2 so this is confusing.
I saw the rocket cage removal vid and it looks cautiously doable. I read another vid that valves don’t need to be adjusted after the cage is put back on.It’s the valve adjustment that’s getting me, because if there’s a screw up- it could bring the end of the engine.
[quote=”college man” post=180552]see if this helps.
I’ve heard of this but it leaves you with one option-don’t change fluid until the tranny dies.
One particular brand has been having big problems with cvt in the past and I think they still are.
I think the current warranty is 60k and then your on your own.[quote=”college man” post=179287]You should not need sealant. Did you use OEM gaskets? That could be the problem.
Try to tighten the nut on the stud a little.[/quote]
Thank you for the reply.
It wasnt oem it was a F****o. I’m thinking it’s the bottom spark plug boot thats damaged and not sealing properly? I can feel faint pulses on the top of the wire circle where the valve cover meets the spark plug wires. What’s interesting is I press with firm pressure from the top of the spark plug wire circle top and the pulses are gone. I tightened it a little bit but still there. Unplugged the spark plug wire I didn’t see any oil in the tubes. Could it be the bottom o rings? I’m ok with it as long as there’s no oil in the tube.I saw etcg video on o tube changing and it does look very intimidating.
I have a feeling it’s the water pump. The blades do wear out. IMHO I’d change timing belt and water pump before the head gasket, because it’s less intrusive. I think the head gasket is the absolute last thing on the checklist on possible causes.
In my case I know I have a leak somewhere.I’m having the same problem too. 94 Honda Accord lx beater car. Narrowed it down to distributor or coil. I’ve ordered distributor and once that comes in we will see.
94 Honda Accord lx had the same problem as op. It’s been trying to reach the red all of the sudden so I put in new thermostat.
Kept on finding reservoir tank full and top of radiator missing fluid. I bled it like on the vid and still doing it. It got pretty bad and a friend of mine found a leaking hose and it got better. It still filling res tank and missing fluid on top of rad. There has to be a leak somewhere else.