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Ya it is definitely a bit difficult to answer, but I agree more with oldskll about the enrichment. Also the more I think about it, hitting the throttle farther opens up the throttle body more and by default opens things up, fuel pump kicks up and injectors spray more fuel which in turn uses more gas for the faster acceleration. EVEN though you aren’t going any faster or at a higher RPM, it technically should use more gas to get there quicker.
BUT, at the same time, accelerating slower does take more time, keeping the RPM’s at a higher rate for longer which in turn should use more fuel in the long run?
Ya the mythbuster guys did the A/C myth tests, but this is such a close comparison with little to no variables, other than different ways to accelerate.
I’m guessing it doesn’t make too much of a difference, just a burning scenario that i’ve always been curious about.
I guess a bunch of math and an engineer would have to be involved haha.Thanks for the input guys!
Thanks for the reply’s guys.
Sorry if I wasn’t completely clear with my troubleshooting.
I did in fact do testing in the engine bay with the fuses.
I pulled each and every fuse and the one with the draw was the one that controls the fob system, radio and back truck release. Again, the fob system should shut off after a while as it does, but nothing is jumping out as a parasitic load, and why I came here.
I guess the question would be if it is the fob system, what would be the next step?
What would be replaced (part) at that point?
How would I test that?
Why doesn’t installing a high capacity AGM battery make the draw take much longer to drain the battery, and let me start the car past the 24-48 hour time period?
Why can’t I crank the car over at all, and why is the battery completely killed off rather than a drain past the crank rating?This seems like a weird short or computer system that is faulty and triggers something to short out for some reason. I took pictures last spring when I did the testing, so i’ll have to look to see exactly what the draw was and what fuse etc etc and I’ll post back.
Thanks for the info kgevil, and everyone else of course.
Ya that’s the conclusion we came to while testing everything yesterday, to have the batteries fully tested somewhere (i have 2 kinetic 1400s). I used to have both in there, to help with the stereo, but took one out months ago as I thought that might be the problem. I’ve had them for over 2 years now and no problems until this Christmas. So that’s why I thought the alt must finely be dieing, which I still think as it’s got 140+ k on it.Thanks for the info kgevil, and everyone else of course.
Ya that’s the conclusion we came to while testing everything yesterday, to have the batteries fully tested somewhere (i have 2 kinetic 1400s). I used to have both in there, to help with the stereo, but took one out months ago as I thought that might be the problem. I’ve had them for over 2 years now and no problems until this Christmas. So that’s why I thought the alt must finely be dieing, which I still think as it’s got 140+ k on it.Well, talking about and I bet you can guess what happened. Drove around today and came out, car was dead. No light on key turn, then with key out, car made some weird noises that I’ve never hear, then both temp and gas gauges shoot up to the max. Had someone bring another battery,started fine, twice. It’s at 14.4 volts, 12.6 when off. What happened? Having weird issues, but alt seems fine…
Well, talking about and I bet you can guess what happened. Drove around today and came out, car was dead. No light on key turn, then with key out, car made some weird noises that I’ve never hear, then both temp and gas gauges shoot up to the max. Had someone bring another battery,started fine, twice. It’s at 14.4 volts, 12.6 when off. What happened? Having weird issues, but alt seems fine…
Ya I kinda figured, but I thought it just regulates voltage. Also any recommendations? Will the alt shop have these? Can you install it right on the output cable?