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Agustin Alfonso Cesar Charles

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Viewing 15 replies - 61 through 75 (of 83 total)
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  • in reply to: Valve adjustment – difference from front to back #508319

    I would say is just from the heat, since they are the exhaust valves.

    in reply to: Overheating due to poor hood design? #503790

    Well hello guys, CarDoog here XD as you can see in the pictures I made some modifications to my cooling system. Here is the thing:

    After getting a new rad from USA, and installing another temp gauge on the heater line I started to have leaks :blink: the thing is that the new rad came with a 1.1 cap, and my car is rated 0.9 so I don´t know if the new cap is for the new capacity of the radiator. Also, the new temp gauge does work now, and I see that I am running around the 220´s, way above the normal but the oem gauge doesn´t mark overheat, it sits in the middle. This weekend I will fix the leaks and do some other modifications.

    Did I mention that I have also a trans cooler? The A/C condenser, the trans cooler and the radiator are quite far apart from each other, and in different positions (still trying to find the pic but eventually I will find it). I will reposition all of them so the trans cooler is away from the radiator.

    in reply to: Overheating due to poor hood design? #505486

    Well hello guys, CarDoog here XD as you can see in the pictures I made some modifications to my cooling system. Here is the thing:

    After getting a new rad from USA, and installing another temp gauge on the heater line I started to have leaks :blink: the thing is that the new rad came with a 1.1 cap, and my car is rated 0.9 so I don´t know if the new cap is for the new capacity of the radiator. Also, the new temp gauge does work now, and I see that I am running around the 220´s, way above the normal but the oem gauge doesn´t mark overheat, it sits in the middle. This weekend I will fix the leaks and do some other modifications.

    Did I mention that I have also a trans cooler? The A/C condenser, the trans cooler and the radiator are quite far apart from each other, and in different positions (still trying to find the pic but eventually I will find it). I will reposition all of them so the trans cooler is away from the radiator.

    in reply to: Overheating due to poor hood design? #498475

    will do then, one last thing, since down here we don’t have the tools you guys have up there, is there another way to check for combustion gases? I did manage to bleed the system using a cutoff plastic soda bottle so I could see if there were any bubbles.

    Let’s think on the poorest man’s way to do it. =P

    in reply to: Overheating due to poor hood design? #499968

    will do then, one last thing, since down here we don’t have the tools you guys have up there, is there another way to check for combustion gases? I did manage to bleed the system using a cutoff plastic soda bottle so I could see if there were any bubbles.

    Let’s think on the poorest man’s way to do it. =P

    in reply to: Overheating due to poor hood design? #498455

    You´re right, I lacked some details.

    Well, the thermostat is rated 82ºC, is what the manual says. The fan comes on and off as usual.

    The car, well, indeed is a Suzuki Swift, but the engine version is the same as the Vitara Sidekick, only that this model is not FI. And the radiator is the same that the Geo Metro uses, in size, but the outlets are different (because mine is Auto trans).

    Besides that, I don´t know what else. The thing is that the old radiator worked fine, and with this new one I just started to have this problem.

    By the fact that the resevoir water boils I know that the engine doesn´t have a coolant leak, but I don´t know what´s happening. 🙁

    in reply to: Overheating due to poor hood design? #499938

    You´re right, I lacked some details.

    Well, the thermostat is rated 82ºC, is what the manual says. The fan comes on and off as usual.

    The car, well, indeed is a Suzuki Swift, but the engine version is the same as the Vitara Sidekick, only that this model is not FI. And the radiator is the same that the Geo Metro uses, in size, but the outlets are different (because mine is Auto trans).

    Besides that, I don´t know what else. The thing is that the old radiator worked fine, and with this new one I just started to have this problem.

    By the fact that the resevoir water boils I know that the engine doesn´t have a coolant leak, but I don´t know what´s happening. 🙁

    in reply to: ETCG1 Q&A (February 2013) #495189

    What computer do you have to make the video editing? What type of video camera do you use? How long does it take to make the compilation of the final video? What programs do you use? Did it take long to master them?

    in reply to: ETCG1 Q&A (February 2013) #496468

    What computer do you have to make the video editing? What type of video camera do you use? How long does it take to make the compilation of the final video? What programs do you use? Did it take long to master them?

    in reply to: How To Find TDC the ‘Easy’ Way #489294

    Eric, do most engines/car parts get so rusty? I mean (from me that I live down SouthAmerica( is the first time I see an engine like that; maybe body panels but not the engine itself, that’s rough.

    in reply to: How To Find TDC the ‘Easy’ Way #490408

    Eric, do most engines/car parts get so rusty? I mean (from me that I live down SouthAmerica( is the first time I see an engine like that; maybe body panels but not the engine itself, that’s rough.

    in reply to: My nightmare with re-manufactured engines and bad luck #449766

    @SmopuiM

    I feel you pain man, and you just passed the crash course for “dealing with rebuild engines and mechanics in Venezuela” yaaay L:D With my Swift the same happened but with the gearbox. Right now, at last, is working and running good, but yes, the only good mechanic is… yourself. Do yourself a favor a download the service manual, it will really help you (it is still helping me understand my car).

    UPDATE:

    Did the oil change (and actually what is actually sold here is 10W40, 20W50, 25W60, nothing else; but in any brand you can imagine), and the smoke is GOOOOONE LOL 🙂

    Did a round trip test, 5 hours total, average speed of 120 o 140 Km/h, average engine rpm 3.5K to 4.5K and super nock on wood, rock solid. Since it was on highway (yes those speed are the normal average here, even 160 Km/h but that

    in reply to: overflow alawys dry. #451423

    I would say the overflow has a hole. I will start by looking into the overflow, just before going into the hard difficult stuff.

    Well, to tell you the truth the very old owners manual says that optimun would be 15W40, but in hot weater 20W50 would fine. The average temp would be around from 68

Viewing 15 replies - 61 through 75 (of 83 total)
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