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Just to finalize, the problem with the sound was that the TC was too close to the crankshaft. The pilot of the TC is not the same as the original, so I putted a spacer on each bolt to separate around 1/8 inch and that solved all. Now I am rolling. B)
Just to finalize, the problem with the sound was that the TC was too close to the crankshaft. The pilot of the TC is not the same as the original, so I putted a spacer on each bolt to separate around 1/8 inch and that solved all. Now I am rolling. B)
Just got the car fixed, took the tranny to a shop and found out that I installed an spacer wrongly, besides that, everything else was good. Now I got a problem with the torque converter.
I found out that the Ford Festiva and the Suzuki Swift share the same tranny but the torque converters have different bolt distances, the new torque converter that I bought was for the Festiva :S and I didn´t notice. And since it has a 6 months warranty and is NEW, I decided to use it instead of the original remanufactured (the remanufacturing process was kinda shady so I decided not to use that TC). I sent the drive plate to a shop so they could make 4 new holes and balance it.
The problem is that the TC works, but it has a whine sound that goes away as I speed up, funny is isn´t? I don´t know if it is because the TC has something different or something else is happening.
On the Stall test there is no sound, I repeat, no whine at the stall test. But the stall speed is quite lower (1500 rpm, against to what the manual says that it should be 2000), so I think it may be due to the fact that is for the Festiva, maybe? The whine is only present from stop to go, and it seems to dissapear when the TC matches the speed of the turbine (as far as I understand how a TC works, so I kinda think that´s the issue)
Another thing is that the TC has only 2 bolts installed on the drive plate (is that the correct name? is the plate that is connected to the crankshaft and that plate connects to the TC). Since I am testing the transmission, maybe that whine sound could be for the 2 missing bolts and the plate is just vibrating, maybe tomorrow I may install the rest of the bolts just to be sure.
So far, the car goes nicely and everything is good, just that sound that I can´t diagnose. I doubt that the TC is bad, because the sound would INCREASE as I speed, not the other way around.
What do you think?
Just got the car fixed, took the tranny to a shop and found out that I installed an spacer wrongly, besides that, everything else was good. Now I got a problem with the torque converter.
I found out that the Ford Festiva and the Suzuki Swift share the same tranny but the torque converters have different bolt distances, the new torque converter that I bought was for the Festiva :S and I didn´t notice. And since it has a 6 months warranty and is NEW, I decided to use it instead of the original remanufactured (the remanufacturing process was kinda shady so I decided not to use that TC). I sent the drive plate to a shop so they could make 4 new holes and balance it.
The problem is that the TC works, but it has a whine sound that goes away as I speed up, funny is isn´t? I don´t know if it is because the TC has something different or something else is happening.
On the Stall test there is no sound, I repeat, no whine at the stall test. But the stall speed is quite lower (1500 rpm, against to what the manual says that it should be 2000), so I think it may be due to the fact that is for the Festiva, maybe? The whine is only present from stop to go, and it seems to dissapear when the TC matches the speed of the turbine (as far as I understand how a TC works, so I kinda think that´s the issue)
Another thing is that the TC has only 2 bolts installed on the drive plate (is that the correct name? is the plate that is connected to the crankshaft and that plate connects to the TC). Since I am testing the transmission, maybe that whine sound could be for the 2 missing bolts and the plate is just vibrating, maybe tomorrow I may install the rest of the bolts just to be sure.
So far, the car goes nicely and everything is good, just that sound that I can´t diagnose. I doubt that the TC is bad, because the sound would INCREASE as I speed, not the other way around.
What do you think?
INDEEED, it was the dammed cap, but not because it was faulty, because it was smaller than the original one, like 2 or 3 milimiters difference. Got the system tested up to 20 psi and no leak whatsoever 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) , the damm pressure cap was the fault.
apparently, the american caps are different from the ones that are sold here, and the difference is just so marginal that it causes that damm trouble. 😡 never thought that a cap would give so many headaches. Thanks for the support btwINDEEED, it was the dammed cap, but not because it was faulty, because it was smaller than the original one, like 2 or 3 milimiters difference. Got the system tested up to 20 psi and no leak whatsoever 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) , the damm pressure cap was the fault.
apparently, the american caps are different from the ones that are sold here, and the difference is just so marginal that it causes that damm trouble. 😡 never thought that a cap would give so many headaches. Thanks for the support btwGuys, me again, sorry to bother again 😳 😳 😳
Well, yesterday I did a trip to the capital state, around 1000km or so, at speeds around 100 to 120kmph, 3 to 4.5K rpm on the tachometer, around 6 to 7 hours long. Long long highway.
The thing is, I did one stop, to get snacks and decided to check the engine bay, all good BUT, the reservoir was completely full, way pass the full mark, kinda overflowing, but the fan cycled on and off normally, the temp needle was in the middle and no signs of overheating, all good.
Now, I got to Caracas (the capital state btw 😛 ), slept on a nice hotel. The next morning I decide to check the radiator, and my surprise, the overflow was still quite full, but the radiator coolant was not a the top, quite far away of the top I should say. But I did noticed that, when I refilled the radiator with the coolant that was on the overflow, it got toped off, and the reservoir was like half full.
The question is: what´s going on? The system is getting air, but from where? I double checked all the hoses and clamps last week, and I thought that I had a head gasket problem but the engine holded just fine, I mean, 5 hours cruising at 4k rpms… I believe is quite hard on a engine. Well, let me correct that, 10 hours, because I did a round trip. Not a single hesitation, misfire, everything good.
The one thing I was thinking was the radiator itself, I bought like 7 months ago, is a 2 row core radiator, that time it came with a 1.1psi cap, but I replaced it with a 0.9 psi cap, since is the original rating that came with the car (thought that maybe they got the rating wrong, so I went and bougth another one). But, could it be that since the radiator is bigger, the 0.9 cap is not the one designed for it, and I indeed would need to use the 1.1 cap?
The hoses on the reservoir are new, the only one left to actually change is the hose that is inside the resevoir itself, but that one looked fine, blowed through it and no sign of leakage.
Guys, me again, sorry to bother again 😳 😳 😳
Well, yesterday I did a trip to the capital state, around 1000km or so, at speeds around 100 to 120kmph, 3 to 4.5K rpm on the tachometer, around 6 to 7 hours long. Long long highway.
The thing is, I did one stop, to get snacks and decided to check the engine bay, all good BUT, the reservoir was completely full, way pass the full mark, kinda overflowing, but the fan cycled on and off normally, the temp needle was in the middle and no signs of overheating, all good.
Now, I got to Caracas (the capital state btw 😛 ), slept on a nice hotel. The next morning I decide to check the radiator, and my surprise, the overflow was still quite full, but the radiator coolant was not a the top, quite far away of the top I should say. But I did noticed that, when I refilled the radiator with the coolant that was on the overflow, it got toped off, and the reservoir was like half full.
The question is: what´s going on? The system is getting air, but from where? I double checked all the hoses and clamps last week, and I thought that I had a head gasket problem but the engine holded just fine, I mean, 5 hours cruising at 4k rpms… I believe is quite hard on a engine. Well, let me correct that, 10 hours, because I did a round trip. Not a single hesitation, misfire, everything good.
The one thing I was thinking was the radiator itself, I bought like 7 months ago, is a 2 row core radiator, that time it came with a 1.1psi cap, but I replaced it with a 0.9 psi cap, since is the original rating that came with the car (thought that maybe they got the rating wrong, so I went and bougth another one). But, could it be that since the radiator is bigger, the 0.9 cap is not the one designed for it, and I indeed would need to use the 1.1 cap?
The hoses on the reservoir are new, the only one left to actually change is the hose that is inside the resevoir itself, but that one looked fine, blowed through it and no sign of leakage.
🙂 Just to end this, apparently everything is fine, just my mind playing games with me :stick: no overheat condition, no weird bubbles anymore, and yes, the reservoir gets more full than normal after a normal drive, and goes back to normal when the engine gets cold, so I am sure the system is sucking and pushing coolant normally during the heat – cold cycle. And nope, I haven´t had to refill anymore, not even a cup, plus, the coolant is not way more closer to the radiator cap now.
Anyway, thanks to all, 🙂 🙂 🙂 I am pretty relieved that I don´t have to take appart the car, is not that I am not willing to but, I rather not do it yet (still watching Eric´s videos to be really sure of what I am doing, besides that I bought my cylinder compression tester on ebay not too long ago so, I will be able soon to know how the car is doing banana: banana: banana: ), maybe after some 200000km more 😛
Anyways, thanks for the help and the support guys, stay dirty and keep on driving B)
🙂 Just to end this, apparently everything is fine, just my mind playing games with me :stick: no overheat condition, no weird bubbles anymore, and yes, the reservoir gets more full than normal after a normal drive, and goes back to normal when the engine gets cold, so I am sure the system is sucking and pushing coolant normally during the heat – cold cycle. And nope, I haven´t had to refill anymore, not even a cup, plus, the coolant is not way more closer to the radiator cap now.
Anyway, thanks to all, 🙂 🙂 🙂 I am pretty relieved that I don´t have to take appart the car, is not that I am not willing to but, I rather not do it yet (still watching Eric´s videos to be really sure of what I am doing, besides that I bought my cylinder compression tester on ebay not too long ago so, I will be able soon to know how the car is doing banana: banana: banana: ), maybe after some 200000km more 😛
Anyways, thanks for the help and the support guys, stay dirty and keep on driving B)
What about the “no overheat” condition? I always thought that if the gasket goes bad, then there should be some overheat, but in fact there is none, the car seems to be pretty normal.
(after some googling) is it true that truly burping the system can take more than one day? even a week of driving before seeing normal levels? (btw, I worked on the car yesterday, and drove it around with the a/c on, so I am not sure if I should just do a long drive without the a/c and check it between a few days later).
What about the “no overheat” condition? I always thought that if the gasket goes bad, then there should be some overheat, but in fact there is none, the car seems to be pretty normal.
(after some googling) is it true that truly burping the system can take more than one day? even a week of driving before seeing normal levels? (btw, I worked on the car yesterday, and drove it around with the a/c on, so I am not sure if I should just do a long drive without the a/c and check it between a few days later).