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I unplugged the sensor and noticed a newbie mistake that I believe I made 3 years ago (long before I even started to watch ETCG.
From the Feed that energizes the coil I had:
Fuel pump (both signal AND feed), temp sensor feed, choke heater element feed, and coil.Yes, all those elements SHOULD (maybe not the coil) be feeding from a relay, not fr the signal wire that comes from the ignition key.
Rewired everything to a relay that feeds from a junction block that goes from the alt to the battery. And the signal feed “signals” that relay only, and the coil.
It was an old installation I made before knowing anything about cars or ETCG, or even YouTube. Now that I think about it, that little wiring hold a lot of current, just to drive the fuel pump, now I know why I was getting so little voltage, I had too many fat loads on that little cable. Even the wire size was small, I don’t know why I didn’t noticed at the time.
The voltage now is 13.76 and rising. Still thinking to move the coil to a dedicated relay but don’t know if it’s necessary since the original coil was also like that.
For best performance should I install the coil with a relay and unload more that circuit?
Will do.
Now, just to be prepared, when you say “increase the wire size”, you mean the wire that feed the ignition fuse to the fuse box?
I was also thinking, what if I setup a relay? so that the ignition signal activates the relay from the fuse side that get energized, and then the relay feeds power from the under hood fuse box that has 14V to the fuse side that feeds the systems? all this using the existing fuse conector. I was thinking about that option today so that I don´t mess with the wiring, the problem I have is where to put a fuse between the relay and the fuse box. Also I don´t know if I am breaking some electric rule that may compromise the whole electrical system.
Hi, I am back….
😛 😛 😛After the crash and repair of my car, I am back again on the road (two months so far). Right now I have just one problem and I think I have tracked it down to the secondary. I upped my jet sizes (primary: 140 to 155 bought, and secondary: 140 to 150 drilled, ye I have learned and bought quite a few tools) and now I am just wondering something about lean mixture.
Could an engine be lean, not ping and still rise temperature a bit? this happened twice going long uphills (more than 5km) at speed (100km/h at 3000rpm) and my temp gauge increased quite a bit. What I don´t know yet is if on the uphill I am opening the secondary enough to be lean and increase the engine temp so much.
Just wondering if I should go up on the secondary since on flat road I see no problem whatsoever and I am pretty sure I am opening the secondary on those speeds.
Guys recently all my bolts came loose and one just broke. My torque converter has 4 bolts, I just want to know if I can survive some months with 3 bolts. I feel a slight vibration, no exagerated but uncomfortable. Or should I just leave 2 opossing bolts until I can drop the transmission and remove the offending broken one?
Stock jet sizes for the dual barrel, the stock one barrel data is also unknown as apparently the same carb was used on the Mitsubishi Lancer, some Subarus Justy, other Geo Metros.
I am trying to go the route of too lean for the mod I made with the exhaust, because I did the test today ( I was installing an alarm and took it for a spin), withouth the secondary, on high rpm is like a decline after 4000 rpm on wot and it won´t go beyond 4500 with ease, not starving fuel but kinda like restricted. Also I forgot to mention that my intake manifold still has just one hole, I haven´t upgraded it to a larger size or make it into a dual barrel manifold.
Getting another carb will mean me sleeping on the couch as my wife gave to me as a gift 😛 also that most of the carbs available are mainly used or china made copy clones, maybe I could downsize on the primary one unit and upsize two units on the secondary so that I won´t be overcarbed and leaner maybe?
Ye, actually I did the mods because of the scarcity and costs of spare parts, plus recently all the problems with inflation has made it almost impossible to properly mantain a car.
About the lean situation, and overcarbing, I want to explore that with the following premise: the other carb (long gone btw, was busted) was only one barrel, and the weber is two barrel, also I upgraded to weber using the kit from a Toyota Tercel, which are by a amazing coincidence, exact match on manifold shape, also because the Tercel is 1.5 and mine is 1.6, and I thought last night while sleeping about an old Toyota Corolla 1986 a friend I checked once for a trouble, has with a carb that I believe is an Aisan, but two barrel also, it did something particularly interesting, as I opened the primary as saw the fuel flowing through the ventury going down into the barrel.
In my case, I see the same on the primary side of my weber, but on the secondary (doing this manually at home btw), touching the secondary lever just a bit it raises the engine speed, a little further and the engine raises and it does a little shaking, kinda like fuel starvation, and then little bit more and then I see fuel going through the venturi. (is it ventury or venturi?)
Is something that I have been thinking about it since while doing the trip (I kinda feel now when I am actually opening the secondary), I didn´t use the secondary at all, could it be that, as you say, I just need to live with a one barrel carb, maybe disconnecting the linkage and using the primary only? I can hit 120km/h only using the primary at 1/3 to 2/3 or throttle travel on flat road, and the car feels powerfull.
Also, about the mod, I just change the manifold configuration from a 4-2-1 to a 4-1, but the piping size is the same actually, also the spark gap was indeed increased (0.7mm if I recall correctly, I thought it was too much but indeed it runs quite good), and the coil, there are older models that have actually a coil like that, mine came with a dry coil (dry?, I mean, one that doesn´t have oil, don´t know the name in english, but it was smaller), so I just swapped it to the MSD and actually the improvement was in the starting time, no more overcranking.
Also, I do have pictures, let me add them, by the way, everyone tells me that what I have actually is one of a kinda, because that engine (that is the same on the old Vitara and Tracker) comes with an FI, but apparently here on the South, they decided to remove the FI on those models and go with a carb. As you can see, oil prices affect the development of vehicles a lot down here.
I truly sure that if that vehicle was FI, I won´t be here 😛 so I am rather thankfull that is it a carb and I got to find a place where I can get a hand to survive with it 🙂
First, the videos, I did record part of the installation process, long time ago now (actually a year ago :P)
[video]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4-ldPE3bKkw[/video] that´s a quick shot of the old carb, as you see is the same as one some Tercel have, and believe me, that carb withouth all the stuff that it should have that I seen on the Tercel is just a piece of…From here on, is just Weber (BTW, if you post videos with https it doesn´t show, I had to change it to http)
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GzmZeowZwGQ[/video]
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s4OJRWzlA30[/video]
[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CAvObXbiPDE[/video]In the pictures you can see how is it installed and the old canister, it was from a Fiesta (what I could find that would fit, but it was too big and I could only set the timing to 6 degrees hardly, as the canister colided with the temp sender), the new canister has only one diagrahm instead of two, apparently all the canister I can find just advance timing, I haven´t found any that can retard.
Also, before going further, my jets are all stock:
Idle: 60
Secondary idle: 50
Primary and Secondary:140
Air Primary:170
Air Secondary:160
The emulsion tube: F50
The rest is pretty all out of the box.Just to see if I get this clearly, I have need the timing right to get the carb right, but at the same time, I need my carb to be right so my timing doesn´t feel weird, right?
I say this because I was thinking about as I was traveling today and I it hitted me, my old carb, as I recall correctly, had a quite weak ported signal, the tubing was quite small (apparently it was designed that way), compared to the weber´s, and thinking about it, could it be that I am using the canister for a carb that has a soft ported signal, and now that I have the weber and I get quite a strong vacuum I am getting advance way too early, instead of building up as it just to do with the older one (it was crap anyways so I believe it had something do to too).
Also, as I was going through the mountains, I decided to really feel and listen to the car, I did all the trip (aroumd 187km back and forth) only using the primary side of the carb, I feel that the car has enough power to pass going uphill with just the primary (remember that I am not using the vacuum advance and I am at 10-12 degrees mechanical advance) and I thought “the power band shifted because of the advance, but why I am getting the power that I need by just using the primary? and why do I get ping as I open the secondary?”, I also thought “could it be that I need to almost overlap the vacuum advance to the mechanicall advance, so that I get the advance I need from the vacuum and then at certain point the mechanical takes over, like getting from 0 to 6 degrees in vacuum and them 6 to whatever number goes in the mechanical?”
Does that sound right?
Exactly, in my case, my canister seems to act weird, for example, if I set 0degrees initial timing to do the test, if I slightly move the throttle like a hair (800 to 900 rpm) I see an advance of 4 degress, but moving further I get 15 degress, what bothers me is the curve, like is way too fast and my canister is not adjustable, that’s way I have the doubt, if I set my advance to 6 degress (factory), as soom as I touch the gas I get ping, (1200rpm and further). So I want to know if swapping the carb affects timing and if I need to reshape the whole thing (harder springs maybe) for a more soft advance vacumm advance? Does that sound right?
Hi, long time no see, did a few modification to the distribuitor vacuum advance unit (like changing the vacuum unit again) and I still have pinging while using the ported vacuum. I got my timing light now (applauses) and I noticed that as soon as I open the throttle, the timing goes up 10 degrees, from 6 to 16, and that doesn´t sound right; I mean, I thought that it should go more slowly, like 8 or 10 degrees. Does that number sound right?
What about if you ride the curve like many times over the years? For example, Classic Cars that are used as daily drivers, or for people that really love their car and they just don´t want to move on (my case for example), I have a reliable POS, but since it was a gift from my father-in-law that passed away two years ago, I decided to ride that curve many times, all the times it will take, but just ride it; and maybe someday, just one day, restore the car to its brand new condition.
Go with the simple things…
Hoses, they may not leak in the usual places, but in the clamps, I had that problem for months, and it was a worn out clamp (20+ years vehicle).
Also the overflow hose, mine was broken at the clamp, also the drain plug. If the car doesn´t hesitate and starts normally, go for those things first.
Also do the dummy test, drain the coolant (if you can´t afford it but if you can, you can use coolant), fill up with water and watch for bubbles while accelerating, besides the air in the system, anything else maybe combustion gases into the coolant system.
Lastly, check your plugs, any plug that looks too clean, it may be an indication of a small headgasket leak.
Do remember, if the car doesn´t raise up, is an indication that you may be loosing coolant somewhere else.
Go with the simple things…
Hoses, they may not leak in the usual places, but in the clamps, I had that problem for months, and it was a worn out clamp (20+ years vehicle).
Also the overflow hose, mine was broken at the clamp, also the drain plug. If the car doesn´t hesitate and starts normally, go for those things first.
Also do the dummy test, drain the coolant (if you can´t afford it but if you can, you can use coolant), fill up with water and watch for bubbles while accelerating, besides the air in the system, anything else maybe combustion gases into the coolant system.
Lastly, check your plugs, any plug that looks too clean, it may be an indication of a small headgasket leak.
Do remember, if the car doesn´t raise up, is an indication that you may be loosing coolant somewhere else.
Thanks guys, well, the needle goes like 10 degrees colder when it fluctuates, and with the A/C I noticed that the thing is with the blower fan, because if I disconnect the compressor the needle doesn´t change, but changing the blower fan speeds the needle goes from 2 degrees difference (lowest speed) to almost 10 degrees (maximun speed).
The good thing is that it doesn´t fall more if the light flashes, so I believe there must be a maximun current drop. But since the car does have an old wiring and the only upgrade it has is moving the battery to the trunk for security reasons :P, I will do an upgrade for the alternator wire, because I did upgrade the battery cables but nothing else besides that.
I will do that “Big 3” thing, since I know I have a good ground (I actualy used dual cables for the ground of the engine and the battery, so I need to go up for the positive side.
Thanks guys, well, the needle goes like 10 degrees colder when it fluctuates, and with the A/C I noticed that the thing is with the blower fan, because if I disconnect the compressor the needle doesn´t change, but changing the blower fan speeds the needle goes from 2 degrees difference (lowest speed) to almost 10 degrees (maximun speed).
The good thing is that it doesn´t fall more if the light flashes, so I believe there must be a maximun current drop. But since the car does have an old wiring and the only upgrade it has is moving the battery to the trunk for security reasons :P, I will do an upgrade for the alternator wire, because I did upgrade the battery cables but nothing else besides that.
I will do that “Big 3” thing, since I know I have a good ground (I actualy used dual cables for the ground of the engine and the battery, so I need to go up for the positive side.
