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Cleaned the MAF sensor and fixed one possible vacuum leak and this is the readings I get now. The engine can accelerate a bit faster now.
Attachments:If it helps this is what the engine sounds like.
The spark plugs looked fine on the passenger side. How would I check the fuel system on a subaru?
The error code is P2096. After the head gasket work the mechanic said the compression was good. So do all the O2 sensors need to be replaced?
So I went and talked with them, so they are saying I will have to get a new timing belt even though the timing belt is new. Am I being upsold or good advice?
What tools would be required to do that sort of job? Do you know of a good guide to do that sort of repair?
The AWD is broken, there are no engine lights. I believe the fuse was taken out before I got it, but I have no idea where it is located. Last I heard it was quoted at a $1000 dollar repair to get AWD working again. I think I have narrowed down the noise to the driver side front CV joint. In the case of the broken AWD, what generally breaks when someone tows an AWD car?
Talking about that, so one of the previous owners towed it probably with a dolly so no power goes to the rear. How would I go about fixing that?
It is hard to test which side it is coming from. Just did some test turns in the driveway and neither made any sound. It make the sound when I go straight or turn right and accelerate.
Took a look at the CV joint. Something doesn’t look right.
http://prntscr.com/bg0vt6It doesn’t happen when I rev the engine above 5,000 rpm, so I don’t think so.
Could it be a bad U-joint?
That describes it as a clicking sound, it’s more of a deeper sound. Also I’ve heard that sound happens when the car is turning but in my case it makes the sound if I allow the rpms get above 4,000 (sometimes it gets above 4,000 and doesn’t make the noise) when I’m going straight or up a hill.
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