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If the old sensor tested good and appeared clean, it would be an interesting experiment to put it back on and see if the car still runs good, to see if perhaps there was some electrical connector pin issue that was cured by switching sensors.
That isn’t surprising. Most of the non-North American world uses a scale called “research octane number” or RON that determines the big number posted at the pump. However, a close look at the sticker should reveal a second number there called the “motor octane number” or MON, that indicates a different measurement of octane in the fuel for that grade. In the US and Canada, the number on the sticker at the pump is based on a different scale called “anti-knock index” or AKI, which uses an average of RON and MON (R+M/2) to represent a more accurate ratio rather than listing the two RON and MON numbers on the sticker. So, in North America the numbers on the pump will be 4-6 points lower than elsewhere, but, at least in theory, are designed to reflect a more accurate fuel component ratio. This is why in the US and Canada it is claimed that an 87 rating = 87% octane, because the number was intended to mean that. Thus, in your area, 91 RON, with around 83 or 84 MON yields approximately 87% octane. As a caution, based on the information I posted previously, if you’re running 98 PULP (PULP = “premium unleaded petrol” for the North Americans unfamiliar with the term) and your engine has a somewhat “normal” compression ratio of 9:1 or less than you should be using a lower grade, even 91 RON, else you’re wasting money, losing power, and building up carbon deposits. The bottom line, always use the fuel grade recommended by the manufacturer.
Yeah, it is the same as the Permatex, but the little packet is available for about a buck, and if that’s all that’s needed, there’s no reason to spend more at the moment.
9 amps is a pretty hefty load. I would probably start at the fuse box where you pulled that fuse and start tracing the wiring on the load side of the fuse. You may find that an amplifier or other accessory has been wired into that circuit and is back-feeding power to it, because there should only be power there when the key is on.
Are you 100% sure? What is the measured current draw from it? That circuit should only be powered when the key is in run or start. A “parasitic draw” only happens when the key is off. Don’t forget about the retained accessory power (RAP) feature. The RAP keeps power active to the windows for a certain amount of time after the key is turned off, so it could show up as a parasitic draw during the timeout period. If the key is off, the RAP has timed out, and that circuit is still drawing current, there is something cross-circuiting with it or there could be a problem with the body control module. Have you checked for codes (even if there is no service light)? Are there any aftermarket accessories installed?
Mid grade is specified for some cars. All cars that specify regular *can* use mid grade and premium, although it’s a waste of money for engines with lower compression that are designed for 87 regular. Engines spec’d for premium should only use premium for the reasons I mentioned above. The octane number represents the percentage of octane. Regular “87” gasoline’s fuel fraction contains 87% octane, 13% heptane. The octane acts as a fuel stabilizer and causes the fuel to burn a little slower. The rest of gasoline’s components are additives and detergents. The higher the octane number, the slower the burn. Lower compression engines need less octane because they want the fuel to nearly combust from compression alone. The lower the octane number, the less compression required to combust the fuel. The spark plug is there to ensure a good flash point and to make sure the fuel combusts on time and as completely as possible. Higher compression engines will ignite the lower octane fuel sooner, possibly before the spark plug fires (which is called predetonation, or usually shortened to just detonation) and is responsible for the pinging sound since the piston isn’t fully ready to travel downward when the cylinder combusts. This is also what is responsible for the excessive carbon build-up I mentioned since the combustion is only partial to what it normally would be. The more incomplete the combustion, the more carbon is left behind. This is why higher compression engines need higher octane fuel, so that the combustion is a little slower and little more complete and won’t predetonate, thus less carbon residue and more stable ignition timing. This explains why using 89 or 91 on an engine made for regular isn’t very good idea either, because the lower compression engine needs a faster burn, not a slower one, so fuel economy will actually decrease, as will output power. I hope this explanation helps to debunk the myth that higher octane numbers are “better.” There are a lot of fuels that will burn in your engine. Charcoal lighter fluid, camp stove fuel, even kerosene or hard spirits like Everclear can fire an engine. However, price notwithstanding, just because they will run the engine doesn’t mean that they are suitable substitutes for the correct grade of gasoline. I ran my Jeep for a day on camp stove fuel once, in Florida after a hurricane. The electricity was down, so the gas pumps didn’t work, but the hardware store had camp stove fuel. I put five gallons in the tank and went about my business. This was an emergency situation though. Not recommended otherwise. I miss that tough old Jeep.
91 or higher is recommended by Honda due to the design (higher compression) of the engine. Using fuel below 91 will cause excessive carbon build-up and detonation (pinging) which could lead to valve problems, clogged IAC or EGR passages, stuck IAC or EGR valves, fouled spark plugs, dirtier oil, etc. A tankful or two of 89 or even 87 won’t hurt, but not long-term. Honda designed the vehicle to run on 91+, so it should be given 91+. It’s more expensive fuel, but it is what the engine requires.
Not necessarily. The engine should naturally idle higher when cold due to the operation of the idle air control valve (IACV) so it may not be noticeable. Another thing to check is for carbon buildup in the throttle body that could prevent the throttle plate from closing fully on its own. This also would not necessarily be a factor when cold (again due to the IACV).
+1 to what Karl and nightflyr said. As I mentioned before, the amount of valve distortion can be too small to be seen, but put it on a valve grinder and it can be immediately heard by the sound of the machine. Stop denying that the valves aren’t the problem, as they are. If there is an impression on the piston head, then there was sufficient contact to bend the valve however slight it may be. Any competent machinist will be able, and is the only reliable source, to confirm whether the valves are indeed bent or not. The issue you are having is with valve sealing. Whether they are bent or not is not the takeaway. The fact that your valvetrain has problems is the takeaway. Since you have already disassembled the engine, just take the head to a machinist for confirmation and repair. This really is the only answer to your situation. Even if your valves aren’t damaged, the head needs to be checked and prepped by a machinist before engine reassembly or else you’ll be pulling it off again soon.
Your throttle cable has most likely stretched. There is an adjustment procedure (Google) but if it is too stretched for adjustment then it will need to be replaced.
Pull each of the spark plugs and check for fouling, proper gap, and signs of carbon tracks. Check each of the spark plug wires for correct resistance.
Evacuated = drawing the vacuum on the system. Anyhow, most every shop can do these repairs. Look in your local ads for coupons or discounts on A/C service now that warm weather is starting to show up.
Cleaning the intake and replacing the EGR shouldn’t affect the starter. This sounds like an electrical problem to me. The rattle you heard could have been a normal consequence of losing electricity to the fuel pump or injectors. Check the electrical connections around the intake that there aren’t any disconnected or poorly seated connectors, check your main power and grounds, and check that your battery terminals are clean and shiny. Check where the ground attaches to the body that it is clean and free of rust and corrosion.