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But every job has to have its “crux” issue, or this wouldn’t be fun! (Read: this is why you often need a technician!)
So on the back bolts of the Resonator Pipe {Pipe B}, where it attaches to the muffler pipe, just a couple of bolts. Easy, right?
So applied some heat and one bolt comes off as planned. Then applied some heat to the last bolt….
Shoot looks like it is getting pretty hot – nice color to the bolt.
But wouldn’t you know? Last bolt is going to be a problem! It just would not budge using the impact wrench. Even reheated it and no luck! So…on to Plan B.
Got out the old Dremel and a thin abrasive disk and went to work on the nut.
The culprit – finally yields!
Now it is time to apply the impact wrench and take the bolt off.
I used vice grips because I didn’t care about saving the old nuts.
Sometimes the heads on the bolts were NOT behaving, so I had to drive the impact socket onto the bolt.
Eventually the bolts are off and the Cat is ready to be mated up with the new pipe. Note the honey comb on the inside of the Cat. Need to dig the old metal gasket out of its seat on the Cat flange, or use a hew flat flange gasket.
The smaller bolts associated with the hanger
These bolts had less mass and less metal around them to wick heat away, so when these bolts were heated with the propane torch, they did glow red like bolts do with a proper torch.
Now that we have the parts and painted pipe, we are ready to address the problem.
First, need to get under the car. I put the wheels up on blocks, but used a board to distribute the weight across the entire block. {While I’d like the additional height that turning the block on its side might afford, I think the block is designed for maximum strength in this orientation.} Also, I NEVER crawl under my car unless I have a fail-safe or back up in place – in this case jack stands. Also, I leave the jack, in place, under slight load, as a redundant fail-safe.
And here is why we are here! This ever happen to you? A pipe breaks and you end up dragging the Cat Converter, and have to pull over, find a hanger, and wire the converter up so you aren’t dragging tail?
Now note the pipe on the other side of the Cat was replaced earlier (Pipe A – flex pipe) and also painted with the Eastwood product.
Next, in order to get the bolts off, I heated them. Now I don’t own an acetylene torch, but did use a propane bottle. Sure it was slow and most of the bolts never turned pure cherry red. But it must have been enough to help. Now granted, when I did this repair it was in the 40s outside (that’s degrees F for any foreign readers) and I allowed the torch to heat the nuts for ~3minutes each.
You can see the red-orange specs on the nuts indicating something was getting hot….
[b]Reason I bought the cheapest pipe, was that I wanted to try “protecting” it to see if I could extend its life. Seems like the pipes rot off this car every 3 years or so. So I found some High Temperature paint for exhaust systems and wanted to try that. So….
Needed to prepare the pipe for some paint. {Oh as a side note, I talked to techs at Eastwood and they said it was OK to paint right over the coating that came on the pipe! Just rough up the surface.} (we’ll see)
So I scraped the label off the pipe
Used some PRE Painting Prep to clean and prep the interior of the pipe. The paint came with a 2-ft long tube and a 360-degree spray head, which was inserted into the pipe to reach the whole pipe from both ends.
Then I lightly sanded the exterior of the pipe to give the coating more of a surface to attach to:
Next was hang the pipe in my “paint booth”
Then I used Eastwood’s Internal Exhuast Coating – suppose to be good up to 1,800+ degrees F!
Applied the “paint”. Note: Did NOT paint the threads (note green painter’s tape) – would protect those with never-seize.
Finished pipe – ready for installation
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Thank you! Just want to make sure that Nu-brite is safe to use on the Evaporator coils inside my home as well?
Here (hopefully) are the files with the complete instructions and the files with all of the pictures!
This whole effort, and posting here, is just one way I can say thanks to those that have helped me along the way. I asked for help on several issues in the middle of this repair and got great responses. Could not have done it without all of the help!
So again, THANK YOU for helping me.
Hopefully some who needs it stumbles on to this info and puts it to good use and that inspires them to “pay forward” with something they know.
Good catch Hokiedad4! Pulled those off the DHMO website – you know the one that warns of all of the dangers of DHMO and pushes for its ban! (You’d be surprised how many people signed a petition to ban it!)
Now I’m not an organic chemist, but do know there are often more than one way a chemical name can be formed for the same substance. Thus my use of various names for water illustrated the point I was trying to make. Was merely pointing out that if the company was playing that game, I didn’t have the expertise to detect it, since none of the listed active ingredients matched from one sheet to the next – and THAT for 4 different products. Therefore, it does not look like Nu-Calgon sells the same product, or essentially the same product, under two or more different labels. Therefore, it would appear to this chair that all of Nu-Calgon’s products are different formulations.
What does your look at the MSDS sheets suggest is the best product?
Nice thought Rick! Yes, Nu-Calgon has open access to their MSDS sheets! So I took a quick look.
Unfortunately on the MSDS sheets there isn’t even one chemical in common in CalClean, Green Clean, Cal-Brite or TriPow’r HD.
(er, unless they are playing games with chemical names: DiHydrogen MonoOxide = hydric acid = Hydrogen Hydroxide= Hydronium Hydroxide)Anybody have first hand knowledge or experience using any of these products can help steer me in the direction I need?
Good Golly! I thought I had replied to this thread with the fix! Must be getting old!
Thanks again to all who helped with advice!
Bottom line – no need to replace everything – just cut those factory crimped on “clamps” off and install the new rubber hoses with band clamps. I went to the expense of buying ONE new metal pipe and when I compared it to the old pipe – it was the same! Could not return the new pipe so installed it.
Here is how I accomplished the task. Aren’t Dremel’s wonderful?
Nice Video & Good tips on battery maintenance! Good basic things to do periodically to keep everything operating well! Thanks!
A few related items….
I use to get corrosion on the battery terminals after a few years. Way back when (don’t ask…) the shops, when installing a battery, would spray some kind of sticky material (color of automatic transmission fluid) on the terminals to prevent corrosion. I see the point that too much of that could get down in between the terminal and the lug and create a problem.
Since then it seems like those red & green felt-like doughnuts have been placed on the lugs before the terminals have been placed. Am I correct in observing that those work well in keeping down the corrosion or with sealed batteries I’ve been sold a bill of goods? Seems like I have had those for years and the corrosion issue has been banished?
While we’re talking batteries – what about the “battery terminal disconnects?” If one is working on their car frequently do these make sense as an alternative to constantly pulling the terminal ends off? Is there a preferred style or brand?
Finally – Have seen some suggest that grounding is often an issue and thus it makes sense to replace the OEM wire with a lower gauge (thicker/beefier) cable? If so what gauge makes the most sense?
Thanks again for a great video on a topic just about anyone can do, but is important!
Issue is that this site limits the number of pics/attachments per post to 7 or 8. With 140 or so images, that ends up being 20 posts. Last one I did that was less complicated, took 14 pages. Guess I’ll have to figure out one of the services and dump it there, with a link here to a full pdf file.
Oh boy! More to do – something else to learn!
Thanks for the suggestions gents! Much appreciated!
I have heat in the 94 Taurus! Yippee!!!
Last night the weather was forecast to be in the 30s so yesterday I drained the coolant, flushed the system and added the Zerex Super Cleaner. Then I went for a 2.5 hour drive. (nothing like a drive with no heat! Yousa!)
This morning another 2.5 hour drive and the Zerex had 5+ hours to work its magic in the cooling system. This afternoon, drained the system and flushed the whole thing by removing the thermostat and running hot water through everything. Even ran the engine a little bit too. Discharge from the Thermostat housing and drain-cock were clear. Allowed system to drain completely as I cleaned up the overflow reservoir.
New OEM thermostat, new gasket and replaced hoses and other stuff taken out to give access. Refilled with green coolant and burped the system following the procedure in Eric’s video. Got the air out, refilled the overflow reservoir, then removed the shunt from the hoses and connected them to the new heater core!
Got in the passenger compartment, fired up the engine, cranked the heat and blower and high and WOW!
THERE WAS HEAT!
Lots of heat – Nice and warm & toasty!
Good to have heat again and the car back for winter use!
Now gotta figure out a way to get the ethylene glycol smell out of the ducts. any ideas?
Yeah, just a bunch of things that need to be done on the Gen 2 Fords to get dash out so the heater core can be removed. Shops want $600 to $800 to do the job because it is a 6-8 hour job.
color is flags I put on every connection to indicate where it belonged.
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….saved disconnecting all of this spaghetti!
[quote=”Toma22″ post=126552]Hi, i watched the heater-core flushing video, it was really good. [/quote]
Hey, I looked around for a half hour but just can’t find that video. Would you be so kind as to share the link? I’d like to watch that or another that shows a flushing procedure.
Good luck on your exam!
