[Gene]

[quote=”Iznogood” post=173515]
U do NOT use anything to seal any brake parts. No o-rings or teflon tape on any brake pipe. None of it will hold the 100-300 Bar pressure that you put on a brake system in a panic situation.

Just make sure you use the right nuts. Here is a website that shows some different ones: https://www.thansen.dk/bil/autoreservedele/universaldele/bremsedele/omlober-nippel/n-354112285/

Notice, that some has thread all the way out and others has a small collar. Look at the old nuts and make sure, that the new ones are the same kind.[/quote]

OK! THANKS!

Got it! Use nothing but brake lines and proper fittings or parts! This is the kind of “background” info that is really useful. I don’t “think mechanic” so the reasoning behind doing something is important and useful to me! Don’t want any failures in a panic situation.

Thanks for the link, got me thinking about the nuts. So I took a picture or two. Looks the same to me. Ami I missing anything?

Attachments:

• AccordBrakeLine001.jpg
• AccordBrakeLine002.jpg
• AccordBrakeLine003.jpg
• AccordBrakeLine004.jpg

[Gene]

[quote=”451Mopar” post=173497]Looks like a tough one to find? I looked at some restoration places like Classic Tube,and inline tube, and they don’t list any Honda lines. Tried Fine Lines( SSTubes.com) and they list Honda, but only back to 1994?, You might want to give them a call and see as I think they do custom stuff too. Toll Free: 800-778-8237[/quote]

Hey Thanks! I have made a note of those for future reference. I am sure I’ll get into this again so it is great to have some places to check. This is what I love about Eric’s site – always someone around who knows something different than I do! So the real power of a “collective knowledge base!”

Classic Tube offered to build me a custom line, er, at vast expense.. Not sure I want to go that direction, but if all else fails – I have the solution! Thanks!

[Gene]

[quote=”451Mopar” post=173342]Have you checked to see if there is a factory bent replacement line? Might be cheaper than the tools?[/quote]

Thank you for the info on the tool and its availability at Summit Racing! Appreciate it!

Thanks also for the thought on OEM parts. Hmm, well I thought I tried to find a factory replacement pipe. It has always been a challenge to find some parts for this 27 yo. car. Perhaps my ignorance (lack of knowledge) got in the way and I missed a good place to look? Wouldn’t be the first time I needed to learn something or missed the obvious! 😆

1989 Honda Accord 4 Door LXI KA 5MT
Part No. 46361-SE0-030
Part Description: Pipe E, L. Brake

Here is where I looked:

• Honda Parts Now – Found part number and “out of stock” indication. Now I have been told that Honda links all dealer inventories together so that all can see what is out there in the world. So, as I was told, if one site doesn’t have it, no sites have it. Also asked and was told that Honda prevents dealers from selling old inventory to a consolidator like Rock Auto or like <font color="#00bb00]Green Sales[/color] in Cincy does for Ford Parts. So either youse gets u parts from the Honda network, or go the aftermarket route. [color=#ff0088″>Hope this is correct?
• Rock Auto – quick look to see if they had any brake lines. I didn’t see any. Looks like they have the rubber hydraulic hoses however.
• eBay – used OEM part number and separately description as search criteria.
• Google Search – got plenty of hits, most of which were for a similar part number (-010 not -030). I ended up calling a parts manager in Texas about the part with the one number difference and he said that the part came up as being a fit for a 1986 Accord. So I ask, “Why wouldn’t that fit? Since Generation 3 Accords were 1986 to 1989?” He said it was possible and probable that they made an upgrade for the 1987, and subsequent year models and it would not be wise to assume his part was a fit/match. Also got a number of hits on page 7 and later of the Google search results that were the correct part number, but were located in Russia or the European Union.
• Vintage Parts (vpartsinc.com) – No joy, part number search there yielded no hits.

So

<font color="#ff0088]Is there somewhere else, or some other way to look for an OEM part?[/color] Can I get a junk yard to pull one measly 8-in brake line for me? [color=#ff0088″> What have I missed?

[Gene]

[quote=”peshewa” post=173286]I also want to mention, steel brake tubing is flexible, but it’s like a coat hanger. If you bend it too many times, it will crack and brake.

A trick I use to make nice bends, is to get a steel can, like a soup can, or similar. You can use the can a a form to push the brake tubing around to get smoother bends. It’s mild steel, not hardened, so it’s easier to bend than you might think. Otherwise, I just got the hang of bending it by hand with no tools that can themselves get in the way.[/quote]

LOL! Thanks!

I did rent a bender from one of the stores, pretty cheap thing but it got me started. It seemed to work fairly well for what I needed. However, think I’d prefer that tool that looks like a pair of pliers, the tool Eric used in his videos. While the tubing was on the car and I needed just another “little bit” those “pliers” would help.

Problem I constantly run into is that things that the technicians do every day, and think nothing of, are often difficult for a shade tree, week end warrior. I think techs develop a certain dexterity and strength that I don’t have and often that is the key between success and a few choice words. That and just not having the “muscle memory” of the force required. I know I ran into that when I was trying to take apart the lovely Ford “quick connect” fittings on the AC lines. Everyone was telling to eat my Wheaties and I figure it was good natured ribbing – er, until I finally got one to partially give way – THEN I understood the amount of effort/force required to disengage TWO o-rings! So yeah, not going to be bending much tubing by hand here.

But the idea of using another object like a can as something to bend stuff around is a great idea! Good work around!

[Gene]

[quote=”peshewa” post=173285]First of all, please do not ever use a compression fitting on a brake line. They are technically illegal in most areas, but they are known to fail under hard sudden panic stops. You will know it was wrong when you arrive at the scene of the accident. [/quote]

I hear ya! Don’t wanna be like the old joke about the last thing that goes through your mind before the steering wheel….should not have used compression fittings…..

[quote=”peshewa” post=173285] This is the easiest to follow video I’ve seen so far. It’s the kind of thing that can really frustrate you until you get the hang of it. [/quote]

Thanks for the video. Looks pretty much like the ones I watched. The only difference was a very noticeable and strong champher (beveled edge) he put on the outside of the tubing before doing the double flare techniques. Could that alone be the source of the problem?

[quote=”peshewa” post=173285] What I’m saying is that you need to practice. I’ve never seen anyone get it right on the first attempt. Even seasoned techs sometimes mess up and have to start over. If your in eastern Iowa, I can give you a hand.

I got sick of starting over and going through multiple premade lines also in the past, so I got a 20 foot reel of 3/16 brake line. I took my time practicing until I got the hang of it. Keep in mind that 3/16 line is the most common size used. If you were to buy a spool, or longer section of it, you will find use for the rest of it in time. [/quote]

Hey thanks for the offer to give me a hand. Unfortunately I am on the East Coast, closer to collegeman than even Eric. I wasn’t sure how tough this would be so I did use the extra I cut off to practice. But after the 4 failed attempts, I figured something was terribly wrong. I note that there is some comment to avoid messing up the coating on the outside of the line, well as you can see it looks like the tool chewed all of that up and ground it off. So Again another sign that something is wrong in Dodge City! 😛

[quote=”peshewa” post=173285] Make sure the flare nuts are the correct thread pitch too, some are similar but different, that can trick you. See if the flare nut threads in relatively easy without the brake line, all by itself. If not, you know your senses have been tricked. [/quote]

That is a good thought and one I was concerned with. Spent a lot of time in the parts store studying the nuts and threads. Then when it was “so close,” I tried connecting one end and seeing if it ran down all of the way by hand. When that confirmed I was actually threading the connector and NOT cross threading it, I took it off and did the same thing on the other end. Both ends threaded in fine independently. That way I know they are the correct nuts and what things should feel like when I was doing final assembly. But even when I got it all assembled and tightened down, I still had a leak at the wheel cylinder.

[b][color=#ff0088]How about using an o-ring on the nut side of the double flare? Could that provide the extra sealing I need?

What about pipe dope on the threads? Teflon tape?[/color][/b]

[quote=”peshewa” post=173285] I don’t want to poopoo on the last poster’s ideas, but compression fittings in automobile brake lines isn’t about being technically correct, it’s about saving a life. Please don’t ever use that in a brake line.[/quote]

Hey, I hear ya! Thanks for the warning. No point in being penny wise and pound foolish!

Now if I could figure out if it was the tool? or something stupid I did?

[Gene]

Hey, thanks for the reply. I am stumped as to what to do. I need that last section of brake line.

Questions:
[ul]

[Gene]

I just completed replacing a steering rack on my 1989 Accord, so kinda similar.

Here are the things that were “key” issues.

1. Get a hold of the service manual for that car to see how much “stuff” needed to be removed in order to get the rack out. I had to drop a frame beam, the exhaust A-Pipe and both rods from the stick shift to MT. Then the secret “trick” was doing something Eric cautioned against – turning the wheel all of the way to the left so that the inner tie-rod cleared other frame supports.

2. Use line wrenches (flare nut wrench) on the hydraulic lines, use lots of penetrating oil ( I used PB Blaster) on the fittings! Oh and be Patient! You do not wanna break those tiny lines! I sprayed them for a couple of days and tapped on them before trying to break them free, but mine were pretty rusted.

3. Make sure you get enough new PS Fluid. (find specs & capacity) I bought a 6 pack off eBay and used 5 of them. I let the system drain for a day before trying to get the rack out, still there was some residual leakage, so I needed mop up supplies.

4. While you are on the front end looks like you have checked most things. Are the struts in good shape? Last year I did UCAs, stabilizer links, struts and tie rod ends. The crux on that axle job is likely if the bolt comes free from the fork, LCA juncture. It worked nicely in Eric’s videos, but otherwise one is taking apart & reassembling a new axle to get it in place or a new LCA, etc.

5. Don’t be fooled – getting that steering wheel back on straight, is probably going to be more like Eric’s venture (several tries). It took several test drives, and an extra tube of perseverance, before I got everything aligned.

6. Be prepared. What Eric says about ‘patience’ and a steering rack, is true. Take you time, take breaks, think smart and don’t let it beat you! I know, I took several breaks (some long) when the frustration of laying on the ground struggling with rusty bolts and low clearances got to be too much.

I agree with Rob781 – check the lines carefully. Especially the pressure line from the PS pump to the rack. I had to replace that a few years ago.

There are some “poor man’s alignment” videos using a string, that I employed to get the wheels “close.” Didn’t want to be driving around to the alignment shop too out of kilter. So that got me close.

Good luck!

[Gene]

OK as a follow up to this repair:
[b][color=#ffbb00]
Thanks again to everyone for all of the kind help![/color][/b]

Under the classification of “No Good Deed Goes Unpunished” I offer this:

Got done bleeding the front brakes after the new rotors & pads and one caliper rebuild and noticed the brake fluid was rather dark in color. I’d say more brown than amber! So I decided it would probably be a good idea to flush the rest of the system. OK, no problem! Eric has a video for that!

So I whip off the back wheels and attempt to take the drum off. Lots of beating, tried the screw trick, but the inexperienced mechanic left the emergency brake on, making drum removal impossible. Once I figured that out…. drum popped right off! {experience is a powerful teacher!) Then I looked around back and could not see any bleeder screw. HUH? But Wait! I watched the video and knew the “work around” – just loosen the connection between the hydralic tubing and the wheel cylinder and let it bleed out there! OK, so I do that and eventually get clear fluid. Then I get to putting the drum back on and when it would not fit I saw this:

Oh joy! I mixed up the videos and should NEVER have had the drum off while pumping the brakes! But the cylinder was out too far and wouldn’t go back. Now I just got done rebuilding a caliper so this little thing didn’t scare me. Carefully removed the wheel cylinder, put it in the vice and took it apart and put it back together. Then on the back I see that the bleeder is snapped off! No wonder I could not find it! That means a new wheel cylinder. OK, if I’m here…. measured the drums and they are at 200mm vs a spec of 201mm. Ah hem! No rivets showing on the shoes, but looks pretty thin. Guess I’ll be emulating the drum brake videos soon!

Then on the OTHER side, I left the drum on, but while loosening the fitting to the back of the wheel cylinder, this happened:

snapped off the metal tubing! Oh joy! But wait! I know what to do! Where are those hose covered needle-nose vice grips to pinch off the flow?

Of course can not find OEM parts (well maybe in England) but did find the pre flared tubing with fittings at AZ and borrowed a tubing bender and was able to get a new tube bent and in place! (first try!)

The “white stuff” you see on the ends is extra anti-seize I glopped on the threads and the neck of the fitting. Hope this helps retard any corrosion of the steel tubing & fitting?

So yeah, all new brake fluid and everything back in shape (until I do the rear brake job)

I’m excited! It is fun that I have learned enough that on occasion I can solve problems on my own! But is is always comforting to know that friendly & helpful people live here when I need it!
[b][color=#ff00bb]
Thanks again to all for the education, help, advice & support! MUCH APPRECIATED![/color][/b]

Attachments:

• RearBrake.JPG
• brakes_2.JPG
• brakes_3.JPG
• brakes_4.JPG

[Gene]

OK! So thanks again to all that helped me on this repair! It is fascinating that dudes I have never met, can “coach” me through repairs using this invention, the Internet!

I finished the repair! Everything seems to be in the right place and it all works! Yippee!

When putting the MT shift linkages back together I cleaned up the plastic & rubber bushings and added a little brake grease (really silicon paste). Using that “trick” of turning the rack to the left was needed to get the rack back in place. Once the wheels were back on, I reset the steering column. But after driving it for a test drive it looks like I am off by 5-degrees! Guess I’ll emulate the video more than I thought?

Went crazy on the A Pipe, all of the original Eastwood “Internal Exhaust Coating” had burned off of the inside & out. So degreased and metal prepped (nitric acid) the pipes, scuffed them up with steel wool and added a new layer of VHT paint. Then I had to “cook” the paint in. So now hopefully this paint lasts? New gaskets all around – finding parts is a multi-store under taking. Everyone has the parts, not all of the parts fit! Doughnut gaskets at AZ, flat gasket at N. Found some self locking class 8.8 bolts at HD, found matching nuts (class 10) at PB and found the 8.8 nuts for the hanger at AZ! Sure wish there was one place that had it all!

Anyway, thanks to all for all of the kind help! I truly could not have done it without all of your kindness. Oh and note I have said thanks “officially” for each post and bumped everyone’s karma too! It is the least I can do to show my appreciation!!

[Gene]

Wow! Thanks for all of that! Now I have some thinking to do!

Any idea what the cam, catback and intake mods did for your HP & torque? I think the A20A3 is good up to about 120 HP?

As far as the brakes go, I looked around and it looks like knuckles from the SEi can be had for 50-75 from the online junk yard places. I am guessing that a lot of the maintenance parts are still around for those rear disc brakes as OEM or resellers (RA etc) parts?

Got to thinking about ABS too. I think I read somewhere one would need to buy a “simpler” system (Gen 1 style?) that works on a separate computer? Or am I just inviting trouble? More go needs more Whoa! Right?

Thanks for the pics of that Turbo A20A1 engine. That is sick looking! Has he put that on a dyno? Any idea of the projected HP & Torque for that beast? I see what you mean about custom work. Looks nice, but a lot of work too!

Yeah +40% boost in HP with a B18C1 would be nice! LOL! Once can dream….

Jeez, this dreaming is contagious! Yousa!

[BTW – recognize my profile pic? Let’s just say I HATE directional wheels! ]

[Gene]

Wow Thanks Evil-i! Really appreciate your fast reply today. That information allowed me to head back out and try again! (taking breaks WAS one of the things Eric suggested in the video!)

I was afraid to turn the rack, as Eric has said always keep the wheels straight. But I figured what the heck, I’ll try it anyway. So stuck the U-joint on and cranked it all of the way left. Guess I didn’t realize how much travel is in the tie rod as that pulled the boot all of the way through that bracket and allowed the unit to drop down. Still had to take the bolts off the shift extension and the gear shift rod as well as drop the A-Pipe, but once all of that was done, yeah, the rack just “fell” right out! Nothing like a major disassemble of the car to get one part out!

So I’ll take a longer break and then get to putting the new rack in place! Hope I can get everything back where it goes. Sad thing is now I have to hunt down new bolts, nuts and seals for the A-Pipe. Wonder if I can find heat treated SS nuts & bolts?

So thank you for the rapid reply and good find!. There is always some special “trick” and I am always pleased that those here know them (or find them) and are so kind as to share them!

I’ll post pics when the job is done! Thanks again!

[Gene]

Oops! My bad! Should have included this picture with the prior set!

Here is how the rack sits and why I can’t get it out – it won’t drop down any further due to those darn brackets. I think if this was below he “firewall” then I’d be able to jigger the thing around and get it out.

Attachments:

• Rack_6.JPG

[Gene]

OK, so thanks to all of the help here I was able to complete the front brake job! Thanks again to all who commented!

I rebuilt the left caliper, just because I wanted the experience and wanted to understand what was involved – probably won’t do that again!

Here are some pictures of the finished job!

Notes:

It took a lot longer to bleed the rebuilt caliper than I expected! Even after “gravity” drainage while I worked on the other side.
Glad I bought a gallon of brake fluid as the “stuff that came out was disgusting and I’ll need to flush the rears too.
I put a VERY minimum amount of never seize on the threads of the bleeder to avoid the nightmare of removal in the future.
Packed the cleaned (4) slider bores with silicon paste, inserting the pins pushed the excess out along flat spots on slider pins.
Small amount of never seize on the end edges of the new pads and on the backs of the pads where they contact the cylinder & carrier.
Pads came with two sizes of shims(?) for the caliper body (other shims go on carrier), I used the larger ones.

Have not yet road tested, since I went directly to a steering rack repair and got stuck on that.

Attachments:

• BrakeJob-1.JPG
• BrakeJob-2.JPG
• BrakeJob-3.JPG
• BrakeJob-4.JPG

[Gene]

Nice looking Gen 3 Accord!

Been thinking about some mods to my Gen 3 to make it a sleeper. However, no idea where to start.

Thought I might up grade rear drums to discs and a dude told me I’d need new knuckles.

Then not sure I understand what you are doing to get more power out of the A2OA3 engine? How does the cam effect output? What change does the cat back exhaust add? Can you turbo these engines?

Kinda wondered if dumping the 2.0L for a 2.4 VTEC might make some sense? (does my ignorance show?)

I plan on rebuilding my long dead AC, will do the R134A upgrade unless I can figure out how to do that new stuff, Opteon 1234YF.

[Gene]

Just found this video and had many thoughts as I watched it. Sorry for the tardy reply!

First and foremost – A person who wakes up every day juiced up to go to work is truly blessed! Everyone always says “Do what you love and then it isn’t work!” So if that is the direction you decide to go, the God bless ya! Oh to be so lucky and have that kind of dilemma in one’s life.

That said, your presence with the repair videos will be sorely missed! Yes, that is why I became a fan of ETG. I am sure that as you know, the value in your videos lies in several things:

You work on real cars, not mock ups or pristine cars. ( I hate all of the “detailing videos” that show techniques on an expensive showroom cars!)
You show what happens when things don’t go right – you cover the “Oh Sh*t!” situations.
Your personality – good brains, nice sense of humor, self deprecation and always POSITIVE!
Your videos are relevant to the DIY’er and perhaps even the professional (as many wouldn’t admit…)

Now as far as making a change, are you thinking about how those changes will (or could) effect your “business” as it were? I don’t know if the business model for ETCG includes royalties from YouTube, Subscriptions, Website Advertising, Sponsorship Enumeration, Swag Sales or Repair fees? So wonder how any proposed changes effect cash flow, eyeballs or other items that generate cash? I dunno, just thinking out loud, you seem to have navigated the “business” side of things pretty well, so no doubt you’ll Ace this too!

I am shocked that you have NOT ended up on reality TV yet! I mean really, from the “marketing degree” dude at Gas Monkey Garage, to your fellow Ohioans at Christmas Garage (Fat & Furious?), your stuff is even more interesting and compelling! But dude! Look at what some of the TOP reality shows pull in per episode! Don’t forget the MIT engineering grads on Public Radio: Click & Clack! There is a niche out there with your name on it! But none-the-less: once you get the Fairmont screaming, how long will it be until you to call out the boys in OKC? lol. JK

Now as far as going the direction of “creating something new” from something old, as others have pointed out, that has been done. But I’ll say this – who is your target audience? How do you make it interesting to them? I watch the above mentioned shows and they are nice, but useless when it comes to doing any mods! So many facts are either assumed or left out. I get that for a general population show, you’d have most flipping the channel if you started talking about pros & cons of tire aspect ratios and wheel diameters. But otherwise, the only thing that makes those show go is the personalities and the created conflict that ultimately gets resolved.

Now as to the Fairmont project, that has been interesting, but you lost me early on when you went down your checklist of things you wanted to do. Again, like the reality shows you seem to be talking in a different language (tech talk) that isn’t unattainable, just unfamiliar. What carries me through those sections of gibberish is your enthusiasm and the twinkle in your eye, like a child on Christmas morning!

So for me the “fix” for making the mod videos “must see” is something in between a classroom session with the “Engineering Explained” dude and the hands on nuts & bolts of car repairs.

Then again, perhaps I am not the target audience and if so that’s cool! I remember the advice well of the marketing professor, “You can’t be everything to everybody!” That’s like recognizing people like hot tea and iced tea and deciding to compromise or “get in the middle.” (No one likes luke warm tea!) So you have this “brand” out there – Eric The Car Guy. What do you want to do with that? How will the future path effect the brand?

You are an excellent teacher and that is why I keep signing up for your “classes!” Hope you keep that aspect no matter what you decide to do!

Best Wishes and Good Luck!!! Onward & Upward!

[Author]

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