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Try flushing your coolant system. I have seen the heater core plug up half full. Literally, and cause your half hot half cold problem. You may get lucky with flushing the system out but may end up replacing the heater core. Bottom half flows to the passenger side top half to the driver side. Usually it’s the bottom half that clogs up first.
Check back and let me know what happens.
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I love my flex head fl80. I have it in the 3/8 and have a 1/4 snappy that I use on the daily also.
I will say I love my screw gun for trim/interior work. I put a 1/4″ bit driver in there and go to town.
I have found that matco finally carries a 21mm flex head/box end ratchet extra long. Not sure who makes it but man it makes doing alignments on silverados and Express vans much more bearable. Worth it’s weight in gold IMO.
I was told SK is coming out with a new super fine tooth ratchet wrench. Interested in seeing them when they come out. Would make some things a breeze in tight spaces to work with.
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We have those days and it irritates the piss out of all of us. We have 9 techs and 3.5 oil slingers. When we have been busting ass all day long and they come back with a stack of 15 waiters at lunch time that’s fine. I didn’t want to eat anyway. We have good management and my teams foreman is awesome. We just have writers/phone jockeys with no common sense. That’s pretty funny though Pitt. I could see one of us doing some shit like that
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I usually recommend twice a year. People down here have a bad habit of hitting curbs or big potholes(old people). The nice thing is we have an alignment check machine though it isn’t always 100% accurate.
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The check bolt is on the drivers side just above the subframe behind the axle. 11mm socket will get it off for you.
Why do you suggest chains and guides? CEL, noisy? Chains are common on the 2.4 and even tsb’s out for the issue. Mostly are common in the equinox though. Just curious on your answer as many customers don’t even notice that bring their vehicles in for service.
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I’ve emailed them once and they just referred me to part of the site that shows the coverage of the vehicles.
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If I can’t get it within a few minutes of soaking with penetrant, heat and my impact/vise grips. I always make sure they match up first but I usually will take my cut off wheel and make quick work of that problem.
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I have a snap on solus ultra. It has very limited gm diesel capability. I’m now two updates behind and not forking the money over for the updates. Usually I just use the tech2 also but it’s hard finding them cause the guys usually hide the two of them we have -_-
I am really intrigued and wanting to try the full auto enginuity set up. The matco/Autel I demoed from the truck was kind of disappointing also. For the money for updates I can almost buy the complete AE set up less the ability to program I believe for what it would cost me to update my solus.
I bought mine due to all the research I did and two different snappy reps I talked with had told me the solus would do it all for the most part. Even though we are a gm dealer we tend to see plenty of Asian and euro/Germans roll through. So I myself am looking at a different set up.
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Another thought, it isn’t something triggering your pats system is it?
Just popped onto identifix just to see what came up. A few have had issues with the horn switch and one was a clock spring. Those are some other things to look at. Unplug each one and see if it quits sounding would be the easiest way to check.
I would build the bottom end on my mustang, throw a department of boost manifold on it with a gt500 whipple blower and throw a new timing kit on her. I would really love a 650+ hp street car to daily.
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Could be the relay, which is most likely. I would probably rule out a pinched wire behind the airbag due to its random. Can you make it sound by turning the steering wheel?
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I made 85k before I did rear brakes. I downshift a lot though. I converted to the 13 front rotors and calipers at 70 though. Shocks, struts, lower ball joints, and spark plugs will be things that will more than likely need to be replaced.
If your lucky the trans is fine. Then 3650 is hard to kill at stock power levels. I’m still on the stock clutch, and power shift the car all the time. I’m sure it will be due for one soon though. The engagement point changes all the time.
Look it over well.
Is it auto or manual? If it has been kept up they last forever. I have an 05 with 121k on the clock that’s been modded with cams, full exhaust, gears, nitrous and a few other things. Up until a few thousand ago I wouldn’t hesitate to hop in it and run across the country with it.
The car sees redline daily and has had over 25 bottles of nitrous run through it on a 100shot. My cam phasers are getting noisy and I’m about to do a full timing kit on her very shortly. If it’s been maintained I wouldn’t see why not IMO.
How much knowledge do you have? Any ASE certs? How do you stand tool wise? To be honest those are the questions I would ask myself getting into the business.
Down here, someone with a little shop experience and some ase’s is going to get the job over one of the hotshots fresh out of tech school. Depending on your knowledge, the best thing to do may be to start in the lube lane and find one of the oldest guys in the shop. If your lucky enough he will let you shadow him. I had a few friends I went to high school with run off to a tech school, I took a year and a half hiatus from the auto field and went off welding lol. I came back into it a few years ago and still am farther along than they are. Just depends on the effort you want to put into it man.