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That appears to have been the case. I just took another look at the old hardware and it had some build-up that would have prevented the pads from sliding easily. Good video. Thanks.
So I did the job this past weekend. I got everything in and there were no major or unexpected problems. It helped to have gotten the calipers off a week earlier because there were fewer rusted nuts and bolts to deal with. I used a little anti-seize on them to help with next time.
Thanks again everyone for all the help.
One minor issue: when I pull the the parking brake and put the car in drive and let off the brake pedal, it moves forward very slowly. I can hear and feel that the brakes are grabbing, just not quite enough. I’d really like this to be solid. (Also, I have to get the car inspected this month so I need it unless they don’t check.)
I saw in Eric’s FAQ where he says to check the rear brake adjustment first. How do I do this? Is there an adjustment for disc brakes? Or did I mess up somehow and there’s something else I should check?
I’ve found online instructions for adjusting the parking brake cable, but I’m trying not to jump ahead to that just yet.
Thanks.
So I did the job this past weekend. I got everything in and there were no major or unexpected problems. It helped to have gotten the calipers off a week earlier because there were fewer rusted nuts and bolts to deal with. I used a little anti-seize on them to help with next time.
Thanks again everyone for all the help.
One minor issue: when I pull the the parking brake and put the car in drive and let off the brake pedal, it moves forward very slowly. I can hear and feel that the brakes are grabbing, just not quite enough. I’d really like this to be solid. (Also, I have to get the car inspected this month so I need it unless they don’t check.)
I saw in Eric’s FAQ where he says to check the rear brake adjustment first. How do I do this? Is there an adjustment for disc brakes? Or did I mess up somehow and there’s something else I should check?
I’ve found online instructions for adjusting the parking brake cable, but I’m trying not to jump ahead to that just yet.
Thanks.
I decided to replace both calipers. Turns out Advance has reconditioned Beck/Arnley calipers available online (and 15% off online orders) so I ordered everything from them. Hoping the order comes this week and I can install this weekend. Thanks for all the help so far.
I decided to replace both calipers. Turns out Advance has reconditioned Beck/Arnley calipers available online (and 15% off online orders) so I ordered everything from them. Hoping the order comes this week and I can install this weekend. Thanks for all the help so far.
[quote=”Hanneman” post=108271]Are you using a caliper tool to compress the piston? The piston has to be pushed into the caliper while it is rotated back into parking brake mechanism. The compression tool makes the process easier.[/quote]
I got one of the Lisle round caliper adapters that you use with a ratchet and extension and I pushed while turning. If that’s not sufficient I’ll take suggestions on a specific compression tool. Thanks.[quote=”Hanneman” post=108271]Are you using a caliper tool to compress the piston? The piston has to be pushed into the caliper while it is rotated back into parking brake mechanism. The compression tool makes the process easier.[/quote]
I got one of the Lisle round caliper adapters that you use with a ratchet and extension and I pushed while turning. If that’s not sufficient I’ll take suggestions on a specific compression tool. Thanks.So I’ve gotten the calipers off and here’s what I found.
On the right side, the first thing I tried after getting the caliper off was to mark the piston alignment and pull the e-brake. I looked at the piston and it didn’t appear to have moved. I put the e-brake back down. Then I pinched the brake line using needle nose vise grips covered in tubing like Eric does, loosened the bleeder a little, attached a tube that goes to a bottle containing some brake fluid (Eric), and tried to turn the piston. I couldn’t get it to budge. I removed the bleeder entirely and still couldn’t get the piston to move. I put the bleeder back in all the way, removed the vise grips, and switched to the other side.
On the left side, I did the same things. The e-brake didn’t appear to move the piston. I couldn’t turn the piston with the bleeder loosened, but I could turn the piston some with the bleeder removed. I noticed that the rubber ring around the piston was kind of twisted.
So what do you think? Do I need a right caliper? I think so. Do I need a left one? I’m not sure.
So I’ve gotten the calipers off and here’s what I found.
On the right side, the first thing I tried after getting the caliper off was to mark the piston alignment and pull the e-brake. I looked at the piston and it didn’t appear to have moved. I put the e-brake back down. Then I pinched the brake line using needle nose vise grips covered in tubing like Eric does, loosened the bleeder a little, attached a tube that goes to a bottle containing some brake fluid (Eric), and tried to turn the piston. I couldn’t get it to budge. I removed the bleeder entirely and still couldn’t get the piston to move. I put the bleeder back in all the way, removed the vise grips, and switched to the other side.
On the left side, I did the same things. The e-brake didn’t appear to move the piston. I couldn’t turn the piston with the bleeder loosened, but I could turn the piston some with the bleeder removed. I noticed that the rubber ring around the piston was kind of twisted.
So what do you think? Do I need a right caliper? I think so. Do I need a left one? I’m not sure.
[quote=”cab” post=108177]Bernardi lists “CALIPER SUB-ASSY., L. RR. (MSDS)” for $133 and “CALIPER SUB-ASSY., L. RR. (RMD)” for $188. Obviously, the second ones are remanufactured, but what are the first ones? Are they new? What does “MSDS” mean?[/quote]
I called another dealer and they explained that the MSDS ones are new but they come bare, whereas the remanufactured ones come loaded.[quote=”cab” post=108177]Bernardi lists “CALIPER SUB-ASSY., L. RR. (MSDS)” for $133 and “CALIPER SUB-ASSY., L. RR. (RMD)” for $188. Obviously, the second ones are remanufactured, but what are the first ones? Are they new? What does “MSDS” mean?[/quote]
I called another dealer and they explained that the MSDS ones are new but they come bare, whereas the remanufactured ones come loaded.[quote=”twiggy02919″ post=108094]I looked up Honda calipers for your car from bernardiparts.com and it’s about $137 or $180 for Honda parts depending on which one you get. That what I would do if is really needed, which I doubt.[/quote]
I’m still planning to pull the calipers off and try to diagnose them, but in the meantime I’m still trying to get info.Bernardi lists “CALIPER SUB-ASSY., L. RR. (MSDS)” for $133 and “CALIPER SUB-ASSY., L. RR. (RMD)” for $188. Obviously, the second ones are remanufactured, but what are the first ones? Are they new? What does “MSDS” mean?
I tried calling Bernardi but they close early on Saturday and I just missed them.
[quote=”twiggy02919″ post=108094]I looked up Honda calipers for your car from bernardiparts.com and it’s about $137 or $180 for Honda parts depending on which one you get. That what I would do if is really needed, which I doubt.[/quote]
I’m still planning to pull the calipers off and try to diagnose them, but in the meantime I’m still trying to get info.Bernardi lists “CALIPER SUB-ASSY., L. RR. (MSDS)” for $133 and “CALIPER SUB-ASSY., L. RR. (RMD)” for $188. Obviously, the second ones are remanufactured, but what are the first ones? Are they new? What does “MSDS” mean?
I tried calling Bernardi but they close early on Saturday and I just missed them.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=108066]First, you may want to read through this article. It has a LOT of information and videos that I think you will find beneficial.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-brake-problems
[/quote]
I’d read that article. Lots of good stuff. Thanks.I’ve decided that before I buy anything I should try to determine if the calipers really are toast.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=108066]As for parts, don’t price shop. Go for good quality name brands, preferably ones that come with a warranty.
[/quote]
So what are the good quality name brands? I get the impression that Beck/Arnley stuff is good, and that A1-Cardone stuff generally isn’t. Is Wagner good? Duralast? Wearever? (Side question: is Wearever the house brand for Advance?)[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=108066]First, you may want to read through this article. It has a LOT of information and videos that I think you will find beneficial.
http://www.ericthecarguy.com/faq/solving-brake-problems
[/quote]
I’d read that article. Lots of good stuff. Thanks.I’ve decided that before I buy anything I should try to determine if the calipers really are toast.
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=108066]As for parts, don’t price shop. Go for good quality name brands, preferably ones that come with a warranty.
[/quote]
So what are the good quality name brands? I get the impression that Beck/Arnley stuff is good, and that A1-Cardone stuff generally isn’t. Is Wagner good? Duralast? Wearever? (Side question: is Wearever the house brand for Advance?)