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doing a voltage drop test is a waste of time you say it cranks fine no fuel though,try swapping relays? have a remote start or aftermarket anti theft? I know these over ride the fuel pump relay…good place to start. You say you have no power to fuse block? There is a fuel pump relay fuse 15A check that out … on the other side of the relay there is 12v power to the coil side when key is turned to run. this is pcm controlled 12v for 2 sec.
sounds like your on the right track but you still did not listen to me when I told you to check resistance…. where did you jumper this wire? back probe at motor connector? I would check resistance of that black wire from the fuse block to wiper motor connector and you could also check the other side fuse block right to wiper switch likely going to find corrosion at fuse block or bad wire. can`t find the bad spot run new and be done with it.
Come on man you have all ready throw parts trying to fix this highly likely going to be that black wire pin 5 open/high resistance judging by wipers and swirts inop. At this point I would check the washer pump circuit aswell contstant ground and 12+ volts when applied just to be safe. I would also do a resistance check on both power wire and grounds before and after the connectors…. you missed something
no back up switch involved tcm receives a signal to the bcm when in reverse which grounds the back up lamp relay causing the constant B+ voltage to power threw the fuses. 27 (reverse lights) 26 (back up alarm). First check both fuses…. If good swap the relay….. still no dice check the relay circuit. Pin 87 should have constant battery voltage 85 is your control ground from bcm when reverse is active 86 is constant power and 30 is your circuit to the lights. fuse block is located under passenger compartment.
During a cold start the PCM would get a signal from the ect to retard the spark timing and run the engine’s fuel mixture slightly richer to help compensate for cold conditions. It is possible that the coolant temp sensor is not reading right and that is your issue with starting when cold. look into this first.
During a cold start the PCM would get a signal from the ect to retard the spark timing and run the engine’s fuel mixture slightly richer to help compensate for cold conditions. It is possible that the coolant temp sensor is not reading right and that is your issue with starting when cold. look into this first.
any chance you have the fuel filter on backwards? What happens if you cycle the key from off to run about 5 times then try to start? Sure there is no leaks at all? Coolant temp sensor reading correctly? You say the fuel pump wines in and out I believe you have a issue with the fuel pump assembly.
any chance you have the fuel filter on backwards? What happens if you cycle the key from off to run about 5 times then try to start? Sure there is no leaks at all? Coolant temp sensor reading correctly? You say the fuel pump wines in and out I believe you have a issue with the fuel pump assembly.
really sounds like the intake gaskets leaking try spraying water around the gaskets and see if the rpm changes also look for cracks around the plenem and spray that down good too. Try ohming out the injectors to see if there in spec. Whats it run like when the maf sensor is unplugged? any leaks at the fuel rail? wiring harness got pinched while replacing the gaskets?
really sounds like the intake gaskets leaking try spraying water around the gaskets and see if the rpm changes also look for cracks around the plenem and spray that down good too. Try ohming out the injectors to see if there in spec. Whats it run like when the maf sensor is unplugged? any leaks at the fuel rail? wiring harness got pinched while replacing the gaskets?