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I got the job done awhile ago and in the process I made a few mistakes, mostly due to listening to people on other forums, or that video linked above
-The biggest mistake was listening to other forums where they said you could just drive the axle nut off the axle without unstaking it. Although it seemed counter intuitive I read it enough places that I believed it. The nut came off most of the way before it had completely ruined the threads on the axle and would just spin without coming off any more. I spent a day cutting the nut off with a dremel and repairing the damaged threads or forming new threads where the previous ones had been swaged together with a triangle file.
-No matter how hard I hammered a socket on the rear of the wheel hub, it wouldnt come out. I had to go out and get a slide hammer and wheel hub flange.
-Despite all the positive reviews on Harbor Freight’s website, and the video I linked previously, their tool refused to work. The die which presses the old wheel bearing out would consistently tilt and jam against the shoulder in the steering knuckle which the bearing is pressed against. Tried hammering it, tried different sized dies, nothing would work. I applied so much torque that I cracked the 1 1/4″ MDF surface the vice holding the steering knuckle was attached to. I ended up taking it to a auto shop and had them press it out, and thankfully was able to get my money back from Harbor Freight.
I got the job done awhile ago and in the process I made a few mistakes, mostly due to listening to people on other forums, or that video linked above
-The biggest mistake was listening to other forums where they said you could just drive the axle nut off the axle without unstaking it. Although it seemed counter intuitive I read it enough places that I believed it. The nut came off most of the way before it had completely ruined the threads on the axle and would just spin without coming off any more. I spent a day cutting the nut off with a dremel and repairing the damaged threads or forming new threads where the previous ones had been swaged together with a triangle file.
-No matter how hard I hammered a socket on the rear of the wheel hub, it wouldnt come out. I had to go out and get a slide hammer and wheel hub flange.
-Despite all the positive reviews on Harbor Freight’s website, and the video I linked previously, their tool refused to work. The die which presses the old wheel bearing out would consistently tilt and jam against the shoulder in the steering knuckle which the bearing is pressed against. Tried hammering it, tried different sized dies, nothing would work. I applied so much torque that I cracked the 1 1/4″ MDF surface the vice holding the steering knuckle was attached to. I ended up taking it to a auto shop and had them press it out, and thankfully was able to get my money back from Harbor Freight.
Yeah, and I assume the ones from Eric’s Accord video are too. I’ve watched another video where some guy used the same Harbor Freight tool set to install a similar bearing on a ’95 Ford Windstar. I only have 1 car and plan on doing this on a weekend, so getting to a machine shop, and finding one which is open would be difficult. When you factor in how much time that would take, compared to how long it took the guy in the video below, and that buying the toolkit would likely cost a similar amount to the machine shop and Taxi fees, it seems like DIY would be faster and I would get some additional tools out of it as well.
See timecode 5:20 – 8:50
Yeah, and I assume the ones from Eric’s Accord video are too. I’ve watched another video where some guy used the same Harbor Freight tool set to install a similar bearing on a ’95 Ford Windstar. I only have 1 car and plan on doing this on a weekend, so getting to a machine shop, and finding one which is open would be difficult. When you factor in how much time that would take, compared to how long it took the guy in the video below, and that buying the toolkit would likely cost a similar amount to the machine shop and Taxi fees, it seems like DIY would be faster and I would get some additional tools out of it as well.
See timecode 5:20 – 8:50
So I ended up drilling a hole on the bottom of the housing to expose the motor shaft. I then put a copious amount of gun oil (Hoppes Elite) on the shaft and let it seep in to the bearing, which took several hours. This made a huge difference, and it only squealed about 1% of the time for the next month or so, but as expected the oil dried out/seeped out and the problem came back. I finally got around to replacing the blower which resolved the issue.
Out of curiosity I cut open the old blower to see if it could be serviced. It turns out the motor assembly was just pressed in to the plastic housing. The two screws on the back of the housing keep the motor from vibrating out of the housing. The rear backing plate for the motor which contains the bearing was staked on to the body of the motor. I didnt feel like removing the stakes and prying the rear cover off, but in theory you could, then service the bearing, and weld it back together
So I ended up drilling a hole on the bottom of the housing to expose the motor shaft. I then put a copious amount of gun oil (Hoppes Elite) on the shaft and let it seep in to the bearing, which took several hours. This made a huge difference, and it only squealed about 1% of the time for the next month or so, but as expected the oil dried out/seeped out and the problem came back. I finally got around to replacing the blower which resolved the issue.
Out of curiosity I cut open the old blower to see if it could be serviced. It turns out the motor assembly was just pressed in to the plastic housing. The two screws on the back of the housing keep the motor from vibrating out of the housing. The rear backing plate for the motor which contains the bearing was staked on to the body of the motor. I didnt feel like removing the stakes and prying the rear cover off, but in theory you could, then service the bearing, and weld it back together
@americantractors
Thanks for letting me know it isnt worth my trouble, and for the plywood idea.@collegeman
I assumed so since it appeared to be welded together. It depends, some come with them, some dont. The cheapest one I found thankfully does, which is what will probably end up going in this. I was interested in knowing how due to curiosity.@americantractors
Thanks for letting me know it isnt worth my trouble, and for the plywood idea.@collegeman
I assumed so since it appeared to be welded together. It depends, some come with them, some dont. The cheapest one I found thankfully does, which is what will probably end up going in this. I was interested in knowing how due to curiosity.Thanks Eric! Just wondering but can you check for vacuum leaks with Propylene gas (replacement for MAPP gas, comes in a yellow cylinder) too or only Propane?
Thanks Eric! Just wondering but can you check for vacuum leaks with Propylene gas (replacement for MAPP gas, comes in a yellow cylinder) too or only Propane?
This issue appears to be intermittent. It happened one day but hasnt happened again. It isnt my car either, its my mothers. After looking around online some more, JCWhitney does have replacement valves, so I guess it is removable after all. I’m waiting on pay day to order a service manual off eBay to figure out how to properly remove the IAC to clean and check function.
@college man/hondaguy 453
I’m assuming I have spark and fuel since it did start after I pressed down on the accelerator. Could I be mistaken? I also cant check for it now since the issue is intermittent.
@hondaguy453
Yes, the 2.4.@thisisbudd
I have a code reader. But the MIL isnt on, so i’m assuming there aren’t any codes. Am I mistaken?Thanks everyone.
This issue appears to be intermittent. It happened one day but hasnt happened again. It isnt my car either, its my mothers. After looking around online some more, JCWhitney does have replacement valves, so I guess it is removable after all. I’m waiting on pay day to order a service manual off eBay to figure out how to properly remove the IAC to clean and check function.
@college man/hondaguy 453
I’m assuming I have spark and fuel since it did start after I pressed down on the accelerator. Could I be mistaken? I also cant check for it now since the issue is intermittent.
@hondaguy453
Yes, the 2.4.@thisisbudd
I have a code reader. But the MIL isnt on, so i’m assuming there aren’t any codes. Am I mistaken?Thanks everyone.