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what i did to solve the problem was take off radiator cap on a cold engine…. then start the car and bring up to normal op temp….. next i turned heat to max temp and fan speed to off and filled radiator while holding throttle to around 2000 rpm….ran car for about 10 mins this way and kept adding coolant when needed….. heat is working nice last i checked and coolant level is staying consistent
what i did to solve the problem was take off radiator cap on a cold engine…. then start the car and bring up to normal op temp….. next i turned heat to max temp and fan speed to off and filled radiator while holding throttle to around 2000 rpm….ran car for about 10 mins this way and kept adding coolant when needed….. heat is working nice last i checked and coolant level is staying consistent
well i have changed successfully both front rotors…. as stated above, the holes in the rotors were useless because when i put bolts in them the threads got pulled out when tightening the bolts down with a quarter inch ratchet….. what did the trick was beating the rotors from the inside edge… in my case, i used an 8 pound sledge hammer which did the trick… lots of people have told me i prob ruined the wheel bearings but they feel all right to me after the fact
well i have changed successfully both front rotors…. as stated above, the holes in the rotors were useless because when i put bolts in them the threads got pulled out when tightening the bolts down with a quarter inch ratchet….. what did the trick was beating the rotors from the inside edge… in my case, i used an 8 pound sledge hammer which did the trick… lots of people have told me i prob ruined the wheel bearings but they feel all right to me after the fact
Did what you said and grabbed an 8 pound sledge hammer…. That rotor didnt stand a chance lol… It looked all messed up when i was done
Did what you said and grabbed an 8 pound sledge hammer…. That rotor didnt stand a chance lol… It looked all messed up when i was done
welp just wanted to check back in here as i followed everyones advice and tips… everything is good to go now….case closed lol
welp just wanted to check back in here as i followed everyones advice and tips… everything is good to go now….case closed lol
wish this car had a little bleeder screw because it is being a little stinker to bleed…. just when i think i got it done it seems that the heat works good for a few days and slowly the performance downgraded… i decided to rent a block tester that uses a test fluid to check for combustion gas in the coolant… my result came back good as far as that goes… had to re do it a few times do to the fact of accidently sucking up a little coolant but all in all i cood not get the fluid to turn yellow… should i try a pressure test next? i also find it very strange that my coolant foams out of the thermostat housing with cap off on an ice cold engine immediately after start up and lasts for a couple mins then stops… i have even tried smelling the fluid when it foams out and dont detect any wierd smells that would suggest combustion leaks aka head gasket failure so this is becoming a nightmare lol
wish this car had a little bleeder screw because it is being a little stinker to bleed…. just when i think i got it done it seems that the heat works good for a few days and slowly the performance downgraded… i decided to rent a block tester that uses a test fluid to check for combustion gas in the coolant… my result came back good as far as that goes… had to re do it a few times do to the fact of accidently sucking up a little coolant but all in all i cood not get the fluid to turn yellow… should i try a pressure test next? i also find it very strange that my coolant foams out of the thermostat housing with cap off on an ice cold engine immediately after start up and lasts for a couple mins then stops… i have even tried smelling the fluid when it foams out and dont detect any wierd smells that would suggest combustion leaks aka head gasket failure so this is becoming a nightmare lol
Thanks guys and thanks eric… I will swap out the thermostat next.,. I just cant believe they cost over 20 dollars tho.., quite expensive in my opinion… I have added more coolant since then tho and the heat is working better…. Its nice and toasty with rpm at 1100 or higher and slightly warm at idle… 700 rpm
Thanks guys and thanks eric… I will swap out the thermostat next.,. I just cant believe they cost over 20 dollars tho.., quite expensive in my opinion… I have added more coolant since then tho and the heat is working better…. Its nice and toasty with rpm at 1100 or higher and slightly warm at idle… 700 rpm
yes it is definately cold here in ohio lol…. car runs in the normal band… usually a little less then mid way… if i recall, it was the same as far as last summer goes as well… i dont recall it running much warmer to be honest
yes it is definately cold here in ohio lol…. car runs in the normal band… usually a little less then mid way… if i recall, it was the same as far as last summer goes as well… i dont recall it running much warmer to be honest
o wow definately not the news i was hoping to hear… car is not even at 60,000 miles yet… im assuming the coolant is the original stuff from 1991 as id did have the original plugs still in it when i bought the car… some one told me that dirty coolant or restrictions would cause the foam that im experiencing so i am really unsure…. the car runs great just doesnt produce heat unless at or above 2000 rpm…. car never comes close to over heating… wouldnt exhaust in the coolant raise the coolant temp significantly?