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I am going to be honest with you, these can be tough. I have worked on cars for 17 years now and the Volvos I have experienced are 2000 S70 and a S40 turbo. I am not sure if the 1998s had the variable timing on them. The Timing belts and water pump jobs are not terrible but pulling a cylinder head or cam seals are not for beginners. If your cam seals are leaking the proper way to change them is to have about 300 bucks worth of specialty tools. I have cheated and slid seals all the way down the cams but this is risky when bolting the cover back down. The problem is the Variable timing gears have no key ways so if you loosen them you will never get them back unless you have that locking tool. Oh yeah and to seal the oil galleries Volvo sells that tube of red sealant for about 45 bucks. In my opinion as long as you don’t overheat one they are good cars to own.
If it were me I would look in the fuse box for the heated mirrors and check for power or find where the switch is originally and look for the wiring harness plug. This is a question the Honda parts or service should know though.
If it were me I would look in the fuse box for the heated mirrors and check for power or find where the switch is originally and look for the wiring harness plug. This is a question the Honda parts or service should know though.
I completely agree with you Eric. I am afraid that cars are getting out of my reach at this point. Direct Injection is just one of them. Running 3000PSI instead of 60PSI with a cam driven mechanical fuel pump along with your in tank pump. Learning the repairs on these can probably dangerous if you are not sure of what you are doing. I think that a lot of my experience with automotive repairs were from learning by actual hands on. Electricians do learn that way but its a vigorous 5 year program of sorts. If you have a Hybrid Tahoe/Yukon/Escalade for instance, they have that 300v battery under the seat and do not have a conventional starter nor alternator. Pop the hood and to your surprise there is a conventional 12v battery right there. Now what? You have to be taught some of this stuff now, less trial and error like the good old days. One more thing to add would be needing $300 dollars in special tools to work on various models, one being Volvos, is taking away from the DIY guys already. I think it will get more and more like this in the future. Look what you have done to me. I am on a rant or something. What a huge thing to talk about this year. LOL
I completely agree with you Eric. I am afraid that cars are getting out of my reach at this point. Direct Injection is just one of them. Running 3000PSI instead of 60PSI with a cam driven mechanical fuel pump along with your in tank pump. Learning the repairs on these can probably dangerous if you are not sure of what you are doing. I think that a lot of my experience with automotive repairs were from learning by actual hands on. Electricians do learn that way but its a vigorous 5 year program of sorts. If you have a Hybrid Tahoe/Yukon/Escalade for instance, they have that 300v battery under the seat and do not have a conventional starter nor alternator. Pop the hood and to your surprise there is a conventional 12v battery right there. Now what? You have to be taught some of this stuff now, less trial and error like the good old days. One more thing to add would be needing $300 dollars in special tools to work on various models, one being Volvos, is taking away from the DIY guys already. I think it will get more and more like this in the future. Look what you have done to me. I am on a rant or something. What a huge thing to talk about this year. LOL
You should really do a 4.8/5.3 swap in Fairmont if the budget allows. I am not against a Ford small block at all. Its just a really popular swap on Foxbody Mustangs and the K-members are relatively affordable. Just throwing it out there. The hate replies may start.
You should really do a 4.8/5.3 swap in Fairmont if the budget allows. I am not against a Ford small block at all. Its just a really popular swap on Foxbody Mustangs and the K-members are relatively affordable. Just throwing it out there. The hate replies may start.
I thought the review was great. I wish I had been able to research these this past summer. I was pulling the head on a Volvo S70 which has about 40+ 10mm fasteners holding the valvecover/cam retainer down. I always wanted a cordless impact and this was the excuse. I bought a Bosch 12v and it wouldn’t break them loose. Exchanged it for a 20v Lithium ion Porter Cable and it worked real good. Just 1/4 inch drive but it is real light. Go ahead tell me I should have went with a DeWalt.
I thought the review was great. I wish I had been able to research these this past summer. I was pulling the head on a Volvo S70 which has about 40+ 10mm fasteners holding the valvecover/cam retainer down. I always wanted a cordless impact and this was the excuse. I bought a Bosch 12v and it wouldn’t break them loose. Exchanged it for a 20v Lithium ion Porter Cable and it worked real good. Just 1/4 inch drive but it is real light. Go ahead tell me I should have went with a DeWalt.