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Obviously with any issue like this it could be more than one thing. I would honestly start with looking at your spark plugs to see if you maybe have a leaky injector. You could also have a bad fuel pressure regulator though I am surprised that you do not have a check engine light. To much fuel in any cylinder can damage the cylinder wall if bad enough.
I will try this and get back to you. I did not plug the regulator off. I did unplug the vacuum line and had no change. I will put my gauge back on it in a day or so.
I will try this and get back to you. I did not plug the regulator off. I did unplug the vacuum line and had no change. I will put my gauge back on it in a day or so.
Fuel filter is new and the regulator seems to be working correctly. Fuel pressure seems stable as it surges.
Fuel filter is new and the regulator seems to be working correctly. Fuel pressure seems stable as it surges.
I have had a fuel gauge on it. Why does it idle up and smooth when I pull that certain vacuum line off the throttle body. Is it disrupting vacuum to something I dont know of?
I have had a fuel gauge on it. Why does it idle up and smooth when I pull that certain vacuum line off the throttle body. Is it disrupting vacuum to something I dont know of?
thanks guys, I am looking forward to this site. Hey Toyotakarl, wish Butch Jones good luck with the Vols, he needs it. I really like that coach.
thanks guys, I am looking forward to this site. Hey Toyotakarl, wish Butch Jones good luck with the Vols, he needs it. I really like that coach.
[quote=”college man” post=85630]The cars of this era were a one piece design with a front
spline yoke and a rear pinion yoke. I don’t think there is
a way you can install it wrong or out of phase/sequence.
Rotate your tires to see if the vibration changes. if not
I would suspect the pinion. Also check the U joints.[/quote]When they said 180 degrees out, he was saying unbolt it and flip it around because this does help in some instances even though it will bolt in either way. Everyone I know puts a mark on the driveshaft and yoke before removing to remember the exact positioning.
[quote=”college man” post=85630]The cars of this era were a one piece design with a front
spline yoke and a rear pinion yoke. I don’t think there is
a way you can install it wrong or out of phase/sequence.
Rotate your tires to see if the vibration changes. if not
I would suspect the pinion. Also check the U joints.[/quote]When they said 180 degrees out, he was saying unbolt it and flip it around because this does help in some instances even though it will bolt in either way. Everyone I know puts a mark on the driveshaft and yoke before removing to remember the exact positioning.
Jeep 4.0 inline 6 cylinders are prone to cracking exhaust manifolds. This is a ticking noise that could sound lower depending where the crack is. They had this problem so much that Dorman makes the manifold and sells it at your local parts store. I am not saying this is the problem for sure but try to eliminate this being one of them.
Jeep 4.0 inline 6 cylinders are prone to cracking exhaust manifolds. This is a ticking noise that could sound lower depending where the crack is. They had this problem so much that Dorman makes the manifold and sells it at your local parts store. I am not saying this is the problem for sure but try to eliminate this being one of them.
I am going to be honest with you, these can be tough. I have worked on cars for 17 years now and the Volvos I have experienced are 2000 S70 and a S40 turbo. I am not sure if the 1998s had the variable timing on them. The Timing belts and water pump jobs are not terrible but pulling a cylinder head or cam seals are not for beginners. If your cam seals are leaking the proper way to change them is to have about 300 bucks worth of specialty tools. I have cheated and slid seals all the way down the cams but this is risky when bolting the cover back down. The problem is the Variable timing gears have no key ways so if you loosen them you will never get them back unless you have that locking tool. Oh yeah and to seal the oil galleries Volvo sells that tube of red sealant for about 45 bucks. In my opinion as long as you don’t overheat one they are good cars to own.