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[buddy]

I tried to change that seal on my old distributor awhile ago but I found out there are to many internal parts inside of mines. I watched some youtube videos and thought it would be easy to fix that seal. When I opened mines it didn’t look like theirs. There internal parts came out in one big piece. I guess because it was a later model car. Mines has to be taken out piece by piece. I read on a Honda forum most of them just buy another distributor and install it. The fear is not putting it back together right or breaking something. Parts are hard to find for this vinetage Honda. I wish mines was like the later models I would have been done by now. I can do the install myself. Cardone used to be a quailty product back in the day. Now I hear nothing but bad things about them. Now I know why. My original worked all the way up to 2 and 1/2 yrs ago and had that same internal leak and I never had my car have a slow starting problem like with this one. I’m still looking for info the WAI / World Power System distributor is brand new and comes with cap and rotor included. If it’s reliable I’ll buy it.

[buddy]

It’s one of those cheap red ones from Harbor freight. Thanks a heap for answering. I would think on a site like this someone could answer a simple question like mine.

I have another question that you might know the answer to. If not that’s alright. The question is do you know anything about this brand of distributor whether it’s a good brand or not. It’s put out by a company called World Power Systems. Right now I have a reman Cardone that has an internal leak in it I changed the external oring to stop that leak and found I had the internal one now. The Cardone turned out to be a piece of junk. Only lasted 2 and 1/2 years It’s past the warranty. The one by World power is new. Any info would be helpful. Sometimes World Power System is also called WAI. Thanks Tods213

[buddy]

Thanks for your response It answered most all questions.
I will replace the gasket. The problem I’m having is getting the screws loose seems they didn’t just snug them down they tighten them so tight I’m having a problem getting them off. I messed one of them up a little. I have my old carb and the same screws came off easily because they were snug. I’m beginning to wonder If the reason they did this was because it was leaking and they didn’t put the gasket in there. I found what I thought was the gasket maybe the float I’m seeing instead.

Do you know If I could put some PB blaster on them or freeze off.

[buddy]

Thank all you guys for the help. I really appreciate it.

[buddy]

Relative 4 would a Aisin be the Japanese brand I’m looking for?

[buddy]

Thanks guys for all the help. I found out it wasn’t the carb that was leaking again it was a hose. I replaced it and was good to go. The stuff I saw on the carb turned out to be something that was sprayed on the carb that appeared to look like antifreeze. Sorry it took so long to post. Someone broke my mirror and had to look for the part at the junk yard. The info you have given me is priceless. I knew this was the right place to find the help I needed. Thanks again

[buddy]

sklein

Thanks for your response.

Could you please tell me what needs to be done. I don’t know if my mechanic understood what the carb guy was telling him about the hoses. He said he couldn’t stop the leak. That’s why he ended up trying to seal it. He said he was going to seal the whole thing but ended up only sealing the hole that the antifreeze was coming out of. If the hose bypass will take care of this it would help alot. Thanks

I have included 2 diagrams. Could you tell me which hoses need to be disconnected. Someone on another site said to disconnect 2 hoses (1 inlet and 1 outlet) and attach them together. Your way sounds different.

As far as the base plate and a hose not sealing both of those things did cross my mind along with maybe the bolts aren’t tighten down.

Attachments:

• ee5808fc2affacccc34ef9ba32bcb703
• feaed971c9d0843bf83d7c73d8c8b965

[buddy]

Thanks evil-i for the response.
My mechanic did open the top of the carb and cleaned out the extra gas. He says that he cleaned out the float and reinstalled. Now the car starts but the problem that I’m having now is that the car will not hold the idle. I drove it home the other day but had to keep my foot on the gas to hold up the idle when I came to a stop signal or the idle would drop to zero and the car would die. If I’m driving without stopping the car runs fine. Any ideas of what would be causing this? My mechanic was saying that the carb is not stabilizing that’s why the idle won’t hold. I’m going to order another carb to replace this one. But I just want to make sure that something else isn’t wrong.

[buddy]

Sorry I didn’t mention the new carb. The car was adjusted by a mechanic but he didn’t do it right. I was having a problem with the fast idle too, it was going up to 3000 rpms and wouldn’t come down on its own until I hit the pedal then it would drop to 1500 rpms and stay there. I posted on several forms with pics and no one could answer my quetion about the adjustment screw. I finally found out where the adjustment screw was on my own because no one on any forum could answer a simple question was this the screw. I brought down the fast idle but it still doesn’t kick down on it’s own. But that’s another issue.

Right now I’m trying to find out what the throttle control/dashpot screw does. I read it has something to do with how much vacuum it applies to the idle but doesn’t explain which way to turn the screw. I just need to know if turning it clockwise will raise or lower the idle.

I’m trying to make the idle stable when the car is in park or at a stop signal. I’ve tried to adjust the idle with the throttle stop screw but the idle always ends up dropping down the next day like I didn’t do anything to it.

[buddy]

cap269 and Bonnieman

cap269 yes I do have a automatic choke and yes it’s vertical. My carb is new rebuilt one so it’s not a failing diaphragm.

Bonnieman as a matter of fact I just went for a smog test so all of those things were done on the car. Will try what autozone has said to do.

Thanks guys

[buddy]

The carb was replaced last year. with a new remanufactured one because it was flooding badly. The fast idle on new carb has always been to high and I just wanted to bring it down some. The red screw I know for sure is my throttle stop screw.

No dieseling or hesitation or stumble on acceleration after replacing carb.

I just wanted to know if the screw painted blue was the fast idle screw adjustment. I didn’t want to mess with it if its not. I do have the service manual but it only shows a drawing which doesn’t really help. I can’t find a actual photo like mine so I decided to take a pic of it. . I have been on that site but my problem is I can’t download the photo on there for some reason.. They could most likely answer yes or no to my question about the blue screw. Thank you for doing the research I really do appreciate it Temeku.

Decon Blues thanks for the attachments but unfortunately that’s not my carb.

Evil-i will do

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