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I had a 93 Accord that alternator tested good on bench test but under 13V when on car. After a lot of pulling my hair out it was a bad ground, the small ground wire that went to inside fender of car. I would suggest running a new ground from that and other grounds you can find.
You will get more help with numbers because that is what people working on cars know. Low pressure will tend to be something then high pressure something else.
How much fuel pressure do you have?
Where are you checking pressure?
Any codes? (Google how if you dont know)
When did this start? After doing other work or left you on side of road?Please use my words as some experience and some theory:
Fuel pressure……..key on engine off 35-45psi
Engine running………………………………28-45psiCould Inertia fuel shutoff switch be the problem?
After fuel pressure test you could run a test to see if you have power to injectors………normally parts stores rent/loan tools for this test.
[quote=”451Mopar” post=169050]I love the Time-Serts, a bit spendy, but work great when you need a thread repair that is very strong and needs to seal also.
The initial kit is expensive, but the inserts are not too bad in price, about $10 each.
I have been getting them from mechanicstoolsandbits.com:
http://www.mechanicstoolsandbits.com/manufacturer-kits-ford-kits-c-21_34_46.html%5B/quote%5D
Are you suggesting at kit from link or just a goox source for insterts?
The kit in video that has case looks to be well built. I never got the information of where to purchase it or cost so if you know please share. My worry is on the amazon kit it doesnt have anything to line up the drill or tap but if you have done without then I could also.
Its hard to see the pics and I wasnt sure it would reach into the holes but if you have done it with this set that is good enough for me. I think you are correct on the time sert. So kit listed has drill, reamer? or just drill, tap, and extensions needed to reach into hole?
This shows the repair being done with head removed. Time is saved by nkt removing head so that is what I am looking for. The set you listed does not convince me it has everything needed for leaving head on for repair.
You can tell if its a fuel problem with starting fluid when the problem presents its self. I have seen distributor on this car cause no start but usually happens as car is warm. You should also check fuel pressure if you suspect it. Good Luck
If you plan to trace the problem yourself it can be time consuming! It could be the typical BAD GROUND………check ground around starter if one exists. If you can remove starter have it tested at parts store……..MAKE them test it 3 times (New parts can be bad). Testing the neutral safety switch should be easy to find online. You have to be ready to troubleshoot the problem anywhere/anytime so just leave home prepared. Stay in touch as you progress. Good Luck
I am scared to drive it because of lack of power. I cant hardly get it up driveway. I plan to pressure test coolant system, remove upstream O2, test fuel pressure today. Once codes are cleared it is still limited to about 2000 RPM. I agree something is going on but how to find it is what I need help with.
Are you sure coolant fan(s) are working? Not only is it working but working when car runs hot? Think it possible gunk has system clogged……..do a good FLUSH of system. I have had good luck with the cheap T system kits from part stores where you connect garden hose to flush.
I cleared codes and run truck for an hour. Codes…..P1000,P0300. Info from scan tool: tps respond good, maf at ide is 1.10, at idle FIRM1 is 6.3 FIRM2 is -8. Disconect MAF with no change. Has fluid of some sort in Ypipe of exhaust. I have more data from scanner if that helps.