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1st I’d try a new 23mm bolt. If the end of the crank was case hardened the previous owner actually used up the One Shot Fix. The 23mm likely broke through the hardened surface of the threads (I can’t remember for sure but I think it is like max .010″ but likely .002″ – .005″ for case hardening 4mm blows way through that). It tightened when they did it but, it was only (likely) going to do it once. I’d did a timing belt on a civic and the harmonic balancer almost stopped me. I bent extensions out of round but the 5 ft cheater pipe started ad 12 o’clock and the bolt didn’t break loose until I got to nine. Those things get real tight. As far as the drill/tap it would still be a do it once and the next time the HB comes off, re-tap. Likely have to pull the crank and get it on a milling machine to do the drill/tap. You might be able to give the old 23mm bolt to someone with a lathe and they may be able to make you one. That would likely be, next time the HB is pulled = new crank. All of those may be really expensive compared to an engine swap or a new crank. If the car was actually worth $450 (hopefully more) an engine swap shouldn’t be out of the question.
Not really a mechanic or a machinist, but I play one at the machine shop where I work. The mod thing has come up, I’ve thought about it. I have an LX Civic, not a race car. It would pretty much ruin the whole point of owning that car. I wish more people understood “the mods that you have done don’t necessarily increase the value of the vehicle.” Also the fact that the work you put in it or the parts you put on it doesn’t increase the value. If you have XYZ vehicle that is running it is worth $XXXX. Especially if I’m the buyer and have to take all that stuff off (currently looking for a mid 90’s jeep wrangler w/o lift) to make it highway speed worthy. I also like the “I’ve done XYZ to it, (usually non-stock mods) and I’m an engineer/machinist, so you know it was done right.” Uh huh, sure.
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