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There appears to be a slot for a screw driver. . . maybe a dust cover after I poked around with an internal hex. Looks like I’ll just have to use the
hack-saw-wrench.This is from an experience with a different car. . .
Check the spark plugs. If they have oil on them, then it is definitely burning oil. The PCV valve is part of the vacuum system. I had a car with bad hoses that caused too much vacuum on the PCV which caused the burning oil. If that is the case replacing the vacuum hoses may solve it. Not always really easy but you’re not pulling valves.
The spring lodged on the crank sensor. . . melted it. Lower belt cover was rubbing against the crank damper causing the rattle. Used a torque wrench this time on the tensioner. I think I over tightened it last time. . . Maybe I got lucky. No I didn’t the car I borrowed to go to work last week got backed into and needs a new driver’s side rear door. Did I mention it’s an Oldsmobile Aurora? Some one at work sent a nasty e-mail to the office and some how I’m catching the fallout.
Bought an inspection camera the other day and took a peak, there is residue from the belt. The width and “teeth” of the belt look okay, I think that the tensioner did lock and caused it to slip.
Get to go to the almost farthest away dealer in the STL area tomorrow to get a belt and tensioner.
Eric, any other tips on the tensioner itself? Got to watch the vid a few more times.
BTW the tensioner is called an eccentric with the bolt hole not on the center with the rotating axis. I like to take out the air filter box, makes getting the valve cover off and especially on easier. Also, its a nice place to store some of the nuts/bolts from the top of the engine that can’t be “left in the part” while it’s uninstalled.
Wow. . that belt is for a skinny Honda.
Yeah I remember instructions for the spring on the tensioner saying to make sure the hook was in a certain direction. . . the hard way to hook it. It looks like Honda belt and tensioner this time around. I don’t think the replacement had the stop on it.
I don’t know these answers: Does the Honda Control Module or computer allow the engine to idle without crank/cam pos sensor? Are those sensors just for controlling spark/injector for engine speeds higher than idle?
I’m just trying to figure out what I may find/need before I tear into it, nice weather next weekend (who believes a weatherman?). I rarely have time to diagnose/get parts/fix in the time I have available. Wait who does?
I said the 23mm bolt was a One Shot Fix. I would guess that the previous owner stripped both the bolt and the hole threads. I don’t know for sure but, case hardening is likely the best way to harden a crank since it would be less likely to cause warping. However, case hardening doesn’t go very deep only about .002″ – .005″. When it was first stripped the hardening was destroyed. It’s like the metal under it has had nothing done to it. Because of that, the previous owner “got lucky” by putting in a bolt with oversize threads. It worked because it cut some new and unknown size thread in soft steel (it blew right through what was left of the hardened material). So in other words it’s scrapped.
No matter what is done from here on out it’s a one time fix. The hardness of the metal has been greatly reduced. Whatever is done, heli-core or drill and tap, when the bolt comes out next time it will destroy whatever has been done. The metal in the crank just can’t take the stress. I highly doubt that it is possible to torque the bolt to OEM spec no matter what is done. The now soft metal in the bolt hole will relax/soften when it gets hot and the bolt will slowly torque up but, when the bolt is removed it will strip the threads.
