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I would highly doubt the Ecu (pcm) is at fault. Have you tried scanning for codes? The 95s are OBD2 compliant….sort of. The right code reader can pull codes. That would eliminate the pcm. My 95 7.3 runs about 13.8v under normal conditions.
12.2v is barely enough to power the IDM (injector drive module) I am surprised your able to run the truck with that voltage.
Check the connector to the regulator for any possible shorts… Did you replace the connector harness and pigtail also? Is it possible you crossed a wire?
The only other thing… But it’s a long shot. The fuel bowl heater has a tendacy to short out internally and cause a whole bunch of issues. I’ve never heard of it causing this problem, but I would unplug it to test it out. It’s a single conductor square shaped plug ont the right(driver) side of the fuel bowl. It’s right above the connector for the water in fuel sensor. Those are the only two wires on that side of the fuel bowl. Typically this will also blow the fuse for the pcm, but I’ve also seen it cause some strange electrical issues
Keep us updated. A voltage read direct from the alternator would also be useful in diagnosing this issue
Just drove the truck from North Carolina to Western NY and back to visit for the holiday and to tow back a 26 foot camper. The truck did great for something that hasn’t run in a year. But some issues came up that will have to be fixed
First thing is the schrader valve for the AC fill blew, lost most of the refrigerant. I disconnected the ac clutch so it wont build anymore pressure and leak more. It seems to only leak when the system is on.
Second I have a main seal leak…Doesn’t surprise me seeing how it sat for some time. It got less serious the more I drove the truck as the old seal started to swell from the oil. Thats a primary concern. I will be dropping the trans to fix that asap
Third, the trans is leaking from the crappy aftermarket rubber pan gasket. E40Ds only seem to like the reusable (Never understand why people toss these) gasket. So ill go to Ford and get a new one. Also the trans is leaking from the output shaft seal and their is a little play in that bushing. Ill be replacing that. Since Ill have the trans out and apart, ill go ahead and pull the valve bodies and give it a good cleaning. Ill also pull the pump and install a Shift Pump correction kit. The pump is known for under supplying fluid to the stator bushing. The bushing wears and then typically kills the torque converter. Hopefully I can nip it in the bud. At some point Im going to install an ATS Triplelock TC, Ive put those in e40D’s that are in built trucks and they seem to handle the power well. Much better than the stock junk Ford put in.
Fourth, going to return the Crank Case Vent to its stock location. Someone thought it would be a good idea to disconnect it from the intake and route it out under the cab. While this may be ok for performance, everytime I stop at a light I smell crankcase gas…I can live with a slight down grade in performance for that one.
Also it seems like Im not getting enough boost for the amount of fuel I can provide with the new injectors. Im going to start researching turbo upgrades. Might get a whole new turbo, or rebuild the stock unit with a wicked wheel.
Over all Im liking this truck. Its going to need an interior rehab and I think just about all the door seals are dry rotted but the thing runs great. It tows fantastic. the 4:10 gears do limit my speed a bit. The truck seems happy at 64 mph. I get that at around 2100rpm. I dont think its made to cruise at 75. I tried that and my fuel economy went down the tubes. With a tune for mileage I averaged about 18 mpg….Not to bad for a crew cab dually with 4:10 and
99-07 GMs used a crappy stepper motor in the gauge cluster. They fail in almost every vehicle…eventually. You can replace those motors yourself if you can use a soldering iron. The cluster is easy to take apart and all you need to change the motor is a solder iron and a desoldering pump. You can pick up a set of motors on eBay..usually they come with new cluster light bulbs also. Go ahead and change them all while you in there. Do a search on YouTube and you can find step by step videos on how to do it. Doesn’t have to be a Silverado video all the clusters from those years are pretty similar
The Cornwell guy texts me every week to see if I need anything. If I don’t he doesn’t stop. I’m the only tech at my shop so I’m the only one who buys. We he does come I pretty much plan on spending a minimum of 30 minutes to talk….he loves to talk. If I bring up my dissatisfaction with Snapon then he’ll be there an hour. I generally don’t try to rush him out. He’s a cool guy and gives me great service.
Cornwell is the only truck I get. The Snapon guy doesn’t stop often….even though he drives by twice a week. Doesn’t matter his truck is empty and Snapon cut him off for non pay…..guess he shouldnt have sold all the 20 year old techs in the area Epiq boxes they can’t pay for.
We have both a Matco and a Mac dealer but they seem to only stop at factories and machine shops.
Another thing I was thinking about is when you learn on the Fords a lot of that carries over to the HUEI Cats. The injection system is mostly the same. Not to mention all the fleet trucks that run the International DT444 motor (7.3 powerstrokes)
That’s a good place to start but you also need to learn the ins and outs of common rail. Diesels made after 07 become increasingly complicated when you throw things like Diesel Particulate Filtration (regen) and DEF into the mix. I think everything will be common rail going forward. All Tier 4 heavy equipment has made the switch. It’s here to stay and it will only get more complex. It’s getting to the point where you can’t work on a skid steer without a powerful scan tool. If you like high level stuff and complexity the. Diesel is for you. That’s what I love. I like being able to diagnose complex issues that most people can’t. I love the challenge. If you love challenges then go for it. If your looking for work that you can shut your brain off and do, then it’s not for you. Good luck!
I charge $25-$30 per hour depending on what it is. I also mark up the parts a little too. Not to make a fortune, but to cover my time in finding them and going to get them in some cases.
I do fleet maintaince and I’m a part owner of my company so I can use the shop at work. No one minds as long as I fix the stuff they break
Mac micro turn metric wrenches. Can’t live without them. Many fasteners on ford Powerstrokes and Kubotas that would take much longer to get too if I didn’t have those. Can’t for the life of me understand why Mac discontinued them.
I also love my Cornwell swivel universal joints I find myself using them instead of wobble extensions, they work friggin awesome with electric impacts
What year is the truck? The 99-07 trucks have a poorly designed Pittman and control arm. The front tires will always wear funny on those trucks. Tire rotation is crucial. If your a perfectionist you might look into Cognito Motorsports box out kit for the Pittman and control arm. Without that your truck will never maintain a consistent toe.
With my 05 Silverado I check and re-align my truck twice a year. That being said I’m a steering snob and if my front end isn’t absolutely perfect I twitch and go into convulsions. I’m friends with guys who work at a great alignment shop and the always hook me up with a great alignment. All alignment shops aren’t equal. Find a shop that just does alignments and suspension. Take it there. When you get there the first thing they should do before it goes on the lift is drive it. If they don’t drive it first…. Politely ask for your keys back and go some where else. The last thing they should do is also drive it. When they put it on the rack and start to align it, the should NEVER I repeat NEVER align to just what is in spec. The vehicle should be aligned based on the squareness of the four wheels. Every vehicle is different and the spec is only a guideline. You can align within spec and have the vehicle not tract straight. Spend time find a great alignment guy, and treat him right. Lots of people do alignments… But few really know what they are doing.
The EQ part is tough. The Bose head unit doesn’t give you much in the way of adjustment. Also I was worried about just putting any replacement speaker in. The Bose amp is set to use 2 ohm drivers so if I put 4 ohm drivers in than I will have volume balance issues.
The Bose stuff really makes plug and play replacement difficult….Thanks Chevy
I would save up and use POR15. The stuff is expensive but it’s tried and true. I’ve yet to see anything that rivals it when it comes to locking in the rust and providing a smooth surface. It really is the best. Rustbullet isn’t pretty close but POR15 is the king of the hill.
This is an excerp from a post by a GM master tech.
There is another option but it requires a scan tool, like the shop ones or a tool that connects to the USB on the computer such as http://www.autoenginuity.com that will command a service regeneration that you can do in your driveway. This is the option that will work. the system may not respond well to being run on a dyno or something because of the front wheel speed sensors and also the fact that the engine is not working very hard.
I’ll bet it will command a regen. If I had the GM extended package I would go find a d-max to test it on for you, but I only have the Ford extended
Now that I know this exists I must have one. I had my Cornwell guy look it up and they have it listed for $699? Does anyone know what OTC’s warranty is like? I like the convenience of buying off the truck, but that seems like a healthy mark up if OTC will replace components without giving me a hard time.
Thanks
I did a search and I did find a thread where someone claiming to be a GM tech says that AE will command a regen. Like I said it will work with the the fords no problem so I don’t see why it won’t work with duramax’s. Have you tried emailing AE to ask? They have pretty good customer support. Also they do tend to add things if the customer base requests them enough.
