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I was just noticing yesterday how much thicker the sheet metal is on my 95 F350 compared to my 05 Silverado z71. You can feel a difference in the way the doors shut. I soo much prefer the Ford. It just seems better made in every way. Now the Chevy rides smoother and is much quieter but it just doesn’t feel like it will last. Another thing is when the ford breaks it doesn’t catastrophically fail. For instance before Christmas I made a 5 hour drive to the Outer Banks with my family. About 50 miles into the trip the right front wheel bearing started howling. I stopped pull the center cap and checked the bearing preload….It was sloppy to say the least. I grabbed a socket tightened it back down slighty and drove the rest of the way back to the beach. One the way I called the parts store by our house there and had them put the bearing and the seal on hold…All of the parts were at the store. Made it to the house bearing howling all the way. Fixed it the next day….$39, One hour to fix it (And I was taking my time) Only needed common tools….Once I got home I made sure the preload was right with my in/lbs beam wrench
Juxtapose the Silverado. Driving one day, without any warning The drivers side front bearing started grinding. Within one mile it totally failed stranding me. Had to call a tow truck and get the truck towed home. Unit bearing was not at the part store…Had to wait. Started pulling the old unit. It had heated up in the spindle and gotten stuck. I had to heat and slide hammer the crap out of it to remove the old bearing house. Took me almost 3 hours of struggling. Had to clean the spindle, paint it where it had rusted, etc. New part was $180 for the Timken unit. Took shop tools to fix. Bearing failed 40,000 miles latter. Truck is currently on the 4th set of unit bearings.
Just seems like the older generation stuff on trucks was more robust and easier to fix. I know the unit bearings they use now are junk. Go check out the offroad trails. Guys aren’t using unit bearings. If unit bearing were so good than how is Dynatrac selling conversion kits for so much…And making money. I think that of all the new stuff unit bearing are a place that you can point to as something that is without a doubt inferior to the old spindle bearing stuff.
Two of the things that tow/haul mode does is change the shift pattern and raise the internal line pressure.
Both of those should relate to the transmission so it shouldn’t carry over to a new unit…unless its a cooler line blockage or a blockage in either the radiator cooler or if equipped the auxiliary cooler.
If your taking it to a trans shop talk to them about putting in the corvette servo. That will raise the pressures and firm up the shifts…both good things for the 4l60E. I know of no draw backs to going with it.
Did you get a new torque converter with the rebuilt trans?
Well it was worth a look.
Was your old transmission not down shifting also?
Do you know the clunk is coming from the trans and not the driveshaft or rear end?
Do you have the electric locking rear differential?
Are you running an aftermarket tune or performance chip?
Have you inspected the transmission cross member mount for damage to the rubber isolator?
Its good to know GM (Isuzu) has gotten past the issues. Like I said I mostly work on Ford Diesels. The duramax techs I know have always given me crap about how “their” engine was less prone to failure. I was mostly just complaining about DPF’s and all the post 07 NOX stuff.
Also please understand this is the opinion of a guy who spends all day tracking down tiny leaks in High pressure oil systems that cripple 6.0s while almost never having to touch the 7.3s. I’m a bit jaded
I’ve heard of the intake oil leaks, I’ve never seen one. Now that I think about it, I’ve seen oil cooler lines leak that can run down the back of the engine.
I would clean those lines and around the intake manifold and look for leaks while its running. Remember that any leak in the valley will drip down the back of the motor because of the engine cant.
Sounds like you did the oil pan correctly. If you tighten the trans bellhousing bolts first it can cause the pan to leak.
In my experience taken the trans off and replacing it is easier than putting that front diff back in. Those front diffs are a huge pain unless you remove the steering drag link. And even then its only marginally easier.
At only two months old, I would be looking to get that trans warrantied. If these problems are just starting then it could be the trans. It could be the solenoids, you could have a stuck valve, you might have debris in a bore….It could be lots of things. If its a new unit…None of that is your problem. Have the parts dealer deal with it.
As for GM transmissions….GM built an inadequate transmission for that truck from the get go. The is a long and storied past with the 4l60E in trucks. GM has lost plenty of money in warranty work on these trucks due to constantly failing transmission. Some are good, most are not. I would not use a GM unit. Their are lots of great transmission re builders out there who have come up with solutions to the 4l60e’s problems. If I was looking for a 60E I would use one of those guys. 4l60e’s were ok in s10s and cars. Not in 6000lbs trucks.
Now let me say that I own a z71 that has a 4l60e with 225,000 miles on it. I’ve made it last that long by fixing the problems before they happen and babying it. I also only run Amsoil ATF and flush it at the change intervals. So it can work if you get a good one.
Yokes are aluminum. I’ve watched them get welded to the shaft.
Without that part I linked to, the quicksteel wont last. You can only cover it once you eliminate the internal rubbing.
This is more common with the clunk on take off issue, but take a look at your rear springs.You should have round plastic pads attached to the top of the overload spring at the ends. What can happen is the pads come lose and when the rear end torques the springs slap causing a loud clunk. Like I said its more common at takeoff but its worth looking into.
Sloppy shifting in the 4l60e can be helped greatly with replacing the plastic accumulator for a metal one and installing a corvette 4th band apply servo. Both are not to hard to do and an absolute must for towing with the 4l60e.
By the way, make sure you track down that transfer case leak. These trucks have a nasty habit of wearing a little hole through the cast aluminum case. If you have the case out for any reason go ahead and throw one of these in http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P8EDS0C?colid=KGQO21GXZLZB&coliid=I19OOXBIBZY1FT&ref_=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl its a BRNY4080 plate that will prevent that from happening
There is a great video on Youtube from Briansmobile on how to install it. I would link to it but I don’t know if that would be ok with Eric to link another youtubers video to his site.
I’ve had new parts fail also. Just over looked that it could possibly be the problem. That’s the trouble with working alone, I don’t have anyone to look over what I’ve done to help me figure out the problem. Just got wrapped up in the diagnostic and forgot the basics.
Did you install the bolts to the trans bell housing before or after you torqued all the pan bolts?
Also was the truck ever in the rust belt? If so check the dipstick tube at the block.
Did you check the back of the motor where the intake bolts into the valley?
Ok it’s the motor, I applied 12v to each side of the motor to get it to work and it’s dead.
This is the stuff that gets under my skin. A bad replacement part cost me a ton of time. It was the thing I suspected the least. Figured since it was new the problem was in some other part of the circuit. A simple motor test would have determined this from the beginning. I feel stupid
Does this condemn the motor? The signal wire is being pulled to ground, confirmed by a continuity test.
Motor is not drawing any amps
