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Haven’t updated in a while, so here’s what I’m working on now.
Totally rebuilt the front end with all new Dana ball joints and tierod ends. I also installed new Bilstein shocks on the front and coated all the forward frame rails with POR-15
Currently I’m building a new trans for the truck. I’m using the RacerX E40d kit which will give me extra clutches in all the drums for extra holding power. I’m upgrading all the planetaries to 6 pinion steel units. Also throwing in a 4r100 hardened sunshell. I’ll top it off with a billet input shaft and a billet triple clutch torque converter. I also pulled the craptastic ford pan and swapped it for a Mag-hytec unit. Much better! All of this will be cooled by a massive new Ford factory 6.0 trans cooler…..which will be mounted in front of a brand new Ford 6.0 intercooler!
I know Eric says you should always replace transmissions rather than rebuild, but the truth is the trans that I had crapped out because it was a Jasper reman. Remans are a mixed bag of parts. Mine had drums and gears from all sorts of interactions of the E40D. Including a 6 cylinder rear planetary. After cracking open the jasper I have I will never buy another one of there products.
Here’s a few pics
[quote=”gmule” post=163937]I think it is a toss up between an oil pan gasket on a 2000ish Chevy S-10 or timing chains on 2013 Infiniti Q56 all wheel drive.[/quote]
That’s about as bad as it gets. I had to drop the oil pan on a 2001 s10 4.3 4wd due to the head gasket leaking and putting the pink ozze of death in the oil pan. I think I put more time into the oil pan than changing out the head gaskets. In retrospect if I ever have to do that job again I’ll just pull the motor out.
Also I am currently replacing the exhaust manifolds on a 88 Sea Ray Sundancer. They are no fun. The engines are so close together its almost impossible to get between them, couple that with the outside manifolds being completely under the deck and the engine bay only having one spot to stand in just makes it miserable. The customer had taken the boat to two other shops and they turned down the job, unless he would pay for them to pull the motors. Me (Being a dummy) said “No Problem I’ll do it”.
Another particularly horrible job I have been putting off is a Wet brake service on a Cat D3C. I’ve been trying to milk the brakes on our D3 for as long as I can. Its a flat out PIA. Even the Cat dealer cringes when I bring it up.
Love my TDS Cornwell sockets. I use them on rusty fasteners all the time and rarely see them round stuff off.
Sometimes you can flip the nut over and get it to work. Just make sure you have enough threads on the spindle to fully engage nut.
I would go back and recheck those races. Also I find that torquing that bolt down , generally I like to run it down to about 25-35 Ft-Lbs while counter rotating the rotor will help to seat those bearings and races. This is part of the procedure on Fords..Not sure about the chevy. On Fords you have to back it off and re torque to 8-12 In-Lbs to set the preload before clocking the bolt and setting the pin. Probably the same for most spindle bearings
[quote=”MDK22″ post=159332]Carbon Pile is by far the most accurate way, Midtronics and Medtronics suck. [/quote]
Yep, those Midtronics conductance testers that Napa hands out are only as good as the person testing it. Quite a few guys with those thing (Parts Store guys I’m looking at you) Have no clue how a battery works. They just stick on the leads run the test cycle and print out the ticket. Seldom to they check fluid levels, battery temperature, terminal corrosion, or anything else. The worst is when they hook the unit up on a dual battery system without isolating the cells.
The good ‘ole Carbon Pile tester makes you do a proper diagnosis.I’ve had many trucks come in for Alternator change outs because the “Napa Guy” said my batteries were good. Turns out many of them had a single bad battery. Guess what? They bring me the little ticket from the Midtronics that says the batteries are good.
[quote=”MDK22″ post=159658]How Different Battery Testers work and a very informative site on batteries: Battery University – Why do Different Test Methods Provide Dissimilar Readings[/quote]
That’s a great article. Everyone who uses a conductance tester should read this. Its shocking to me the number of bad batteries I’ve diagnosed that have tested good on a conductance tester. It seems to me that quite a few people who use these things have no idea what Sulfation even is. I see guys at the parts store testing batteries in the parking lot with out isolating the batteries from the system, or checking fluid levels. Or my favorite…Failing to isolate cells in multi battery systems.
Another problem I typically see on these trucks is when the glow plugs go bad the resistance goes sky high, almost a dead short. What happens is the plugs cycle on and cause a huge drain on the battery. Then you have to crank longer to get the truck to start. Doing this over and over will kill the batteries.
Not saying this is your problem but its something worth mentioning since this problem will rear its head in the colder months when the PCM wants to long cycle the plugs on every start up.Keep the batteries together. The batteries are tied to provide the required amps. The system is still 12 volts.
When doing the draw test remember to also check the IDM (Injector Drive Module) That is the transformer that steps the voltage up to 120v DC to fire the electric side of the injectors.
Two other common sources of draw come from the glow plug relay and the fuel pre heater. Also I believe that the 2000 has a Intake air pre heater that is also know to fail. I’d check the glow plug relay first, I’ll bet you thats it. That would be easy to check also. Just check the plug side of the relay Key Off/Engine Off.
Thats because most leaf springs are made from 5160 High Carbon Spring steel. Its a good steel and its one of the easier to harden high carbons. There are many different qualities of 5160 used in automobiles and most of it isn’t as good as 5160 billet made for knifemaking and tool steel purposes. Its just easy to come by. 5160 Leaf springs typically are a little more corrosion resistant because of a higher Chromium content.
Leaf springs have a specific alloy requirement for functionality that requires a quality controlled alloy. Not so with many other suspension parts which are made with Chinese pot metal.
Here’s a solution….Techs who don’t know how to do the job shouldn’t agree to do the job. If the job is specialized and requires very specific knowledge about one particular make and model, either seek out someone who knows to ask or don’t freaking touch it. I remember my brother in law bought a 03 Ford Focus SVT. He had all sorts of idle issues. He kept taking it back to the dealer (Who wasn’t a SVT dealer) They couldn’t diagnose it. The solution they came up with was to remove the SVT intake and replace it with a stock Focus intake. They also flashed the ECU with a stock tune. Car ran great. Unfortunately they removed all the reasons to buy an SVT . I took one look at it and told him to take it back and demand a refund for the car. It came down to the Ford dealer didn’t know about the vehicle specifics. Instead of seeking out another dealership..One with an SVT trained tech, the decided to just screw the customer. This stuff happens all the time. He did get a full refund from the dealer for the car…Which they put right back on the lot.
Techs need to know their limits and not take on stuff they don’t understand, B and C techs need to stay out of A tech work. If your going to be figuring the job out as you go, then you better be the type of tech who can do that and make it work. Parts changers have their place, but timing belt services are not it.
MDK22- Aint that the truth about the UVC harnesses. I see a good number of DT444E’s with crushed gaskets from people running the cover bolts down as hard as they can.
Also I don’t know how a person can correctly set wheel bearing preload of 8-12 inch lbs without a torqameter or small beam wrench. I don’t think any amount of experience will allow you to get that in spec everytime without a indicator wrench of some type. Maybe that’s going away since everything seems to be going to unit bearings. I can’t imagine using an impact on a spindle bearing system. You would apply so much preload the wheel wouldn’t be able to turn. And you would be fixing it on your dime in a few days when the bearing torched itself. Also I second the comment about needing to spin the wheel in the opposite direction as you apply torque to the axle nut. Its not just big rigs…Medium and Light duties require this too. If you don’t their is a good chance the bearing and race wont seat evenly.
Also, I torque pan bolts on everything. Many trucks and heavy equipment have pans (Trans, main, final drive) that are hard to get to. No one wants to go back for a leak. Having to re seat a oil pan gasket on a Cat D3 would mean I have to spend another 4 hours splitting the sub chassis from the undercarriage to access the pan….All on my time…..And we might even have to eat the trucking to get it back to the shop. The other option would be to do the whole job in the mud…No thanks! Also when you get into fasteners above 2″ you better pay attention to those torques, what you think is tight enough might not be even half way there. Many bolts on big stuff requires not only a 6′ 3/4 drive torque wrench, but also a torque multiplier. I understand that regular automotive techs wont see stuff like this on a daily basis, but it ties into the torque discussion.
Well one good reason to buy the replica is they are going to repower it with a modern engine. Thats the problem with the original from what I understand. The car drives and handles great…But its completely gutless
If I had the money I would totally buy one. Being a kid in the 80’s, Delorean ownership is on my bucket list
What type of phone/tablet do you have?
Their are a couple good ones but they will be specific to your device. Also if you want expanded or OEM specific codes they could run you a little more than $30.
Your not going to get a stand alone code reader that is worth a darn for $30. Its going to have to be Android/iOS based