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Ok so update, car is worse than ever know. I decided to replace the fpr, it was warranties so free, after replacement no real change, the next day my wife experienced a very serious change in symptoms. A rough idle, serious lack of power and gas mileage is nearly in half. I put my obd scanner on it and hooked it to the computer, now here’s where I’m needing advice.
At idle(800-1100) map reading is approx 6.5-7.5, short term/long term fuel trim is 27.3% and pegged on it, timing advance on #1 cylinder is around 25, maf reading is approx 3 g/s, calculated Load value at idle 28%, coolant temp is around 190-200 back and forth. I’ve replaced front 02 sensor so I know fuel trim is being calculated correctly because of that, tested vacuum and its 16, unplugged maf and it ran slightly smoother with a slow bouncing idle at about 9-1100 over about 2 seconds. Fuel press is slightly better with new for at 46 but the spec for this vehicle is 52-59 psi, the values you pulled are incorrect I’m sure, if you reference oreillys even the for says the same. I have system lean code, multiple random misfire codes, and a p0449(evap vent solenoid valve/circuit). Which I messed up trying an electrical connection fix but the car already had the symptoms I’m trying to correct when I fouled it. Please someone advise anything I should check. Also at 5000 rpms the maf reading is about 160g/s
If it is coming down from the pillar I’ve seen it run down behind the kick panel, that’s the plastic trim typically held on by the spring clips that just pull out though some use plastic or metal screws. I’d pop that off quickly to see if there’s any signs there. If you suspect an area you can also mark it with chalk and the water will wash it away and you can get a good idea of where it’s coming from there. Again good luck Gravity is king so you don’t have a large amount of possibilities.
Well but the pressure is supposed to be 50 psi at idle, it’s 38 at least that’s what my service manual says
I’ve tried apply voltage to the correct pin but it doesn’t effect the fuel pump, I don’t know what to try.
It shuts off after a few seconds, where would one look for this test connection to short to battery positive
I will do this, but I do have a question, you said for 30 seconds but if I’m correct in my understanding, without the car running does the fuel pump not shut off after a few seconds? I guess I will find out in a few but if that’s the case how do I measure the volume without a decent amount of data to collect.
It’s hard to say from the pictures, tbh if it were me I’d take some tissue paper( when it gets wet you can immediately see where it’s coming from). And go to an automatic car wash, the high pressure will surely make it apparent where it’s coming from, along with placing tissue paper and securing with a little tape in all suspect areas. Worst that happens is you cleaned your car and looked a little weird driving around with tissue paper plastered in your car:)
So to anyone reading I finally found the cause. The throttle body gasket that I replaced didn’t get put on right and was blocking half the throttle. Straightened it up and it purrs like a kitten minus the bellowing smoke from handling the exhaust. Thanks for all the help everyone!!! Now I need to replace the heater core next!
It is spitting then, I’ve seen flames shoot out the upper intake plenum’s brake booster vacuum port that I had removed trying to figure out what was going on. The spitting isn’t occuring that I’ve noticed when the maf is unplugged, infact at high rpms 3k is what it revs naturally to atm it seems to run fine no sounds no whistling no spitting, only way I can get the idle to drop is plugging in the maf and it basically immediately kills it, as its dropping rpms down to 0, guessing here but at around 1k rpms or so you can hear it whistle just milliseconds before it dies.
Went to junkyard pulled a maf sensor off a 2004 malibu with a bad transmission, went home plugged in same problem, cleaned out with maf cleaner $9 a can at oreilly’s still same issue, I’m starting to think I have a huge vacuum leak somehow though I’ve checked everywhere. When I get home I’m going to check for a crack near where the throttle body connects to intake. Not sure what else to look at
Update, when I unplug my maf sensor engine runs, but at 3k rpms. When I plug it in after its running it will die within about 5 seconds. When I shut it off or it dies I can still hear it whistle at about 1k rpms or less