[Brian]

[quote=”theoldwizard1″ post=61802]There is a big debate on other forums about what oil to use in small engines. Single weight vs. mult-weight, detergent vs. non detergent. There is only one thing to remember.

A sufficient quantity of pretty much any oil is 1000 times better than NO OIL !! :oops:[/quote]

Yeah, I don’t really know what Mftr. recommend now in small engines. One thing I do know is that with as old as my edger is the only label you can still read off it due to age is 5w-30 (Winter) & SAE 30 (Summer) and it has lasted a long time. I am sure small engine tech. has advanced to some degree since the ’60’s/’70’s but I can’t imagine it has progressed all that much…..
I am defiantly not dropping some “Ultra Class” Synth. oil in it for sure…. it might kill it!
(That actually might be a good way to say it’s time to buy a new one if I did do that though…) :woohoo:

[Brian]

[quote=”theoldwizard1″ post=61802]There is a big debate on other forums about what oil to use in small engines. Single weight vs. mult-weight, detergent vs. non detergent. There is only one thing to remember.

A sufficient quantity of pretty much any oil is 1000 times better than NO OIL !! :oops:[/quote]

Yeah, I don’t really know what Mftr. recommend now in small engines. One thing I do know is that with as old as my edger is the only label you can still read off it due to age is 5w-30 (Winter) & SAE 30 (Summer) and it has lasted a long time. I am sure small engine tech. has advanced to some degree since the ’60’s/’70’s but I can’t imagine it has progressed all that much…..
I am defiantly not dropping some “Ultra Class” Synth. oil in it for sure…. it might kill it!
(That actually might be a good way to say it’s time to buy a new one if I did do that though…) :woohoo:

[Brian]

No filter.

Oil I have used:
Motorcraft 5w-30 (Winter) / Pennzoil SAE30 (Summer) est.: $4.99 Qt.

*O’Reilly’s brand motor oil $3.99 Qt. and “Gas treatment” work well too.

*Also Shell “Formula Shell” 5w-30 est. $4.50 Qt.

I usually change the oil from summer to winter.. start it several times during the winter and change to the SAE 30 for summer and over and around I go again.

By doing this I actually have a B&S edger from the mid 1970’s that still runs. (Just change the oil and treat the gas every so often.

[Brian]

No filter.

Oil I have used:
Motorcraft 5w-30 (Winter) / Pennzoil SAE30 (Summer) est.: $4.99 Qt.

*O’Reilly’s brand motor oil $3.99 Qt. and “Gas treatment” work well too.

*Also Shell “Formula Shell” 5w-30 est. $4.50 Qt.

I usually change the oil from summer to winter.. start it several times during the winter and change to the SAE 30 for summer and over and around I go again.

By doing this I actually have a B&S edger from the mid 1970’s that still runs. (Just change the oil and treat the gas every so often.

[Brian]

Exactly!
Even his mechanic said he had never seen anything like that before.
I told him that it had to be someone that had access to his truck that could get to his engine bay and purposely put it there. He is not married and as far as I know does not have a girlfriend but still… very weird, he does claim his truck was in fact locked when he came out of the restaurant. Either way very weird… I have never heard or seen anything like that, and I would love to talk to his mechanic and ask why he did not take any pictures of it!

*He also did however claim that his air filter was in fact damaged from the plastic bags being forced into the intake box, and had to purchase a new filter….. Hmmmmm.

[Brian]

Exactly!
Even his mechanic said he had never seen anything like that before.
I told him that it had to be someone that had access to his truck that could get to his engine bay and purposely put it there. He is not married and as far as I know does not have a girlfriend but still… very weird, he does claim his truck was in fact locked when he came out of the restaurant. Either way very weird… I have never heard or seen anything like that, and I would love to talk to his mechanic and ask why he did not take any pictures of it!

*He also did however claim that his air filter was in fact damaged from the plastic bags being forced into the intake box, and had to purchase a new filter….. Hmmmmm.

[Brian]

Several people have had positive experience with putting a Turbo on their “Rangers” just as long as they don’t put too much boost on them, the engine itself should be fine if in mechanically working order. (Especially the 2.5 Ltr. SOHC 4-cyl. everyone is always looking for more power on those.) I have a ’98 Mazda B2500 that one day I am going to put a 5.0 V-8 in once my 4 banger goes out… if it ever goes out! It would be cheaper to find a “Junk Yard” V-8/ tranny combo and install that instead of putting an expensive supercharger and or turbo on an already old engine. IMO. (I could be wrong though.. I have not priced everything to the penny as of yet, a crate engine would be too expensive for sure.)

Okay I am copying off something else I found but this may help I hope…..:
—————————————————————-
” Eaton M90 supercharger on Ranger 4.0 sohc
________________________________________
This is the kit by candmnovelties.com, modified to accept a 94 T-bird blower. The kit is well made and went on with only a few minor issues.

Haven’t done any tuning on it yet, but it is definitely stronger! There is a hill near work that the truck used to not quite be able to take at 60 mph in 4th (it would pull down a couple of miles per hour), and with the blower I was able to take it at 60 in 5th (pretty much foot to the floor). According to my dyno data from earlier, the n/a engine put 210 lb-ft to the rear wheels at 2700, so that suggests that with the blower its something over 260 lb-ft at 2250, which would be very good. I hope to get it tuned and back on the dyno in the next couple of weeks.

Thanks, guys.

The kit comes with a belt, but since I modified it to use the 94 blower, (and since the 94 blower has a slightly larger pulley than the 89-93 blower), I needed a slightly longer belt to make it work. just went to the local auto parts store, told him I needed one 1/2″ or 1″ longer, and in 2 minutes he was back with the right belt.

I haven’t made it to the dyno yet, but have got the closed loop part of the tuning pretty close to dialed in. After a couple of more tweaks, you won’t be able to tell it from a stock truck in how it drives (until you get into the boost!) Hopefully, we’ll get to the dyno this weekend or next week.

————————————————————————————

[Brian]

Several people have had positive experience with putting a Turbo on their “Rangers” just as long as they don’t put too much boost on them, the engine itself should be fine if in mechanically working order. (Especially the 2.5 Ltr. SOHC 4-cyl. everyone is always looking for more power on those.) I have a ’98 Mazda B2500 that one day I am going to put a 5.0 V-8 in once my 4 banger goes out… if it ever goes out! It would be cheaper to find a “Junk Yard” V-8/ tranny combo and install that instead of putting an expensive supercharger and or turbo on an already old engine. IMO. (I could be wrong though.. I have not priced everything to the penny as of yet, a crate engine would be too expensive for sure.)

Okay I am copying off something else I found but this may help I hope…..:
—————————————————————-
” Eaton M90 supercharger on Ranger 4.0 sohc
________________________________________
This is the kit by candmnovelties.com, modified to accept a 94 T-bird blower. The kit is well made and went on with only a few minor issues.

Haven’t done any tuning on it yet, but it is definitely stronger! There is a hill near work that the truck used to not quite be able to take at 60 mph in 4th (it would pull down a couple of miles per hour), and with the blower I was able to take it at 60 in 5th (pretty much foot to the floor). According to my dyno data from earlier, the n/a engine put 210 lb-ft to the rear wheels at 2700, so that suggests that with the blower its something over 260 lb-ft at 2250, which would be very good. I hope to get it tuned and back on the dyno in the next couple of weeks.

Thanks, guys.

The kit comes with a belt, but since I modified it to use the 94 blower, (and since the 94 blower has a slightly larger pulley than the 89-93 blower), I needed a slightly longer belt to make it work. just went to the local auto parts store, told him I needed one 1/2″ or 1″ longer, and in 2 minutes he was back with the right belt.

I haven’t made it to the dyno yet, but have got the closed loop part of the tuning pretty close to dialed in. After a couple of more tweaks, you won’t be able to tell it from a stock truck in how it drives (until you get into the boost!) Hopefully, we’ll get to the dyno this weekend or next week.

————————————————————————————

[Brian]

This may sound elementary but the first thing I would do is not think the O2 sensor code is even related 100% to the main issue possibly.
Don’t forget to check for “Any” Vacuum leaks as well as fuel/”Spark” delivery problems elsewhere (Timing???).
Good luck.

[Brian]

This may sound elementary but the first thing I would do is not think the O2 sensor code is even related 100% to the main issue possibly.
Don’t forget to check for “Any” Vacuum leaks as well as fuel/”Spark” delivery problems elsewhere (Timing???).
Good luck.

[Brian]

Unfortunately experienced or not it can happen to anyone, I can imagine in some cases where you are working on more than just one vehicle (And I have) and they all are at different operating temps… It is easy to go into autobot mode and forget to stop a second and est. the safety of the cap in question. Also don’t ever take anyone word for it that if you ask how far and how long have you been driving? They answer “Oh, just around the corner.” > Now tack on about 15 min. or 15 miles and DON’T TOUCH THE CAP! 😳

[Brian]

Unfortunately experienced or not it can happen to anyone, I can imagine in some cases where you are working on more than just one vehicle (And I have) and they all are at different operating temps… It is easy to go into autobot mode and forget to stop a second and est. the safety of the cap in question. Also don’t ever take anyone word for it that if you ask how far and how long have you been driving? They answer “Oh, just around the corner.” > Now tack on about 15 min. or 15 miles and DON’T TOUCH THE CAP! 😳

[Brian]

Too bad I did not have my brother-in-laws old Daewoo anymore I would have loved to have donated it, but he sold it for like $350 (Parts car.) OF course being in Texas I don’t think it would have made the trip to Ohio and would have been too expensive to ship. Our roommate wanted to put a GM LS1 V-8 in it! Now that would have been a fun video to make…… 🙂

[Brian]

Too bad I did not have my brother-in-laws old Daewoo anymore I would have loved to have donated it, but he sold it for like $350 (Parts car.) OF course being in Texas I don’t think it would have made the trip to Ohio and would have been too expensive to ship. Our roommate wanted to put a GM LS1 V-8 in it! Now that would have been a fun video to make…… 🙂

[Brian]

Very good topic.
I am in the process of changing over careers and am investing in tools a little with every paycheck until my last day where I am currently at..(Non- auto. Tech. related.) It is expensive but necessary, I am very cautious when letting people borrow tools only because I have had tools stolen from me I don’t know how many times in the past. It really makes me not want to share with others, once I get into the Auto Tech. field professionally but unfortunately you also have to be a team player as well and I don’t want to come into a new career as being a “Jerk” as well.
I suppose really the best way to save yourself some amount of headache would be to carry all your good tools in a separate box they can’t get to, and keep the Sears brand stuff where if they borrow/steal or lose it…. won’t make you too angry.

Or

*I guess you could if possible make the individual sign a hand receipt for any tool borrowed out of your “Locked” tool chest. They do that in some departments within the DoD making the individual responsible for the borrowed item. It may not be a legal binding document but it is still a document that can show… who, what, and when it was borrowed and or if since returned. At the very least it will give you an idea of what tools have gone missing and, or who keeps losing them and possibly take the documentation to shop mgt. if it keeps persisting in such a manner.

I knew a guy once that had his initials engraved/ etched on to every one of his tools, sockets, extensions, power tools.. you name it.

[Author]

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