Forum Replies Created
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Both sensors by the thermostat housing are coolant temp sensors. Later on, I believe, they actually did away with one of the coolant sensors. If you go to the parts store, they often differentiate the coolant sensors, by calling one a sensor and the other a sender.
The other sensor on the top of the keg you show is your air temp sensor.
Might be a long shot… but perhaps your plenum pan gasket is leaking. This was a known problem in the 2nd generation ram trucks which I believe ran to 2001. So perhaps this was addressed in the 3rd gen ram trucks that you have and is no longer a problem. However, excessive oil loss, with no visible leaks and loss of power, was a good indicator your plenum had failed and oil was leaking in and being burnt. The only way to know for sure was to remove the intake and look for a blown gasket. You could also pull the TB off the intake and look down inside, if you had a pool of oil in the bottom of the intake you could just about be sure the plenum needed fixed.
Here is a link on how to fix this, hopefully it helps make more since to what I’m trying to explain.
http://www.ramforum.com/f77/318_plenum_reinforcement_kit-1250/Also the TSB: http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2000/09-05-00.htm
Good luck.
Might be a long shot… but perhaps your plenum pan gasket is leaking. This was a known problem in the 2nd generation ram trucks which I believe ran to 2001. So perhaps this was addressed in the 3rd gen ram trucks that you have and is no longer a problem. However, excessive oil loss, with no visible leaks and loss of power, was a good indicator your plenum had failed and oil was leaking in and being burnt. The only way to know for sure was to remove the intake and look for a blown gasket. You could also pull the TB off the intake and look down inside, if you had a pool of oil in the bottom of the intake you could just about be sure the plenum needed fixed.
Here is a link on how to fix this, hopefully it helps make more since to what I’m trying to explain.
http://www.ramforum.com/f77/318_plenum_reinforcement_kit-1250/Also the TSB: http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2000/09-05-00.htm
Good luck.
+1 on the wax paper. Not only is it easy to peel off, but you can also see through the paper fairly easy so not only are you feeling how the bondo is forming but you can actually see it.
+1 on the wax paper. Not only is it easy to peel off, but you can also see through the paper fairly easy so not only are you feeling how the bondo is forming but you can actually see it.
My thoughts…
I like the videos. Your videos seem more real to what I experience when working on cars, then any other vehicles repair videos I’ve watched. Please, keep the good parts, the bad parts, and the unexpected parts, to me that’s what sets your videos apart from all the rest. I thought I was pretty poor at fixing things, because it seemed every time I did diagnostics or repairs it never went as smoothly as the repair videos I watched. Then I watch your videos, a trained professional with years of experience, and you show us that bad things/unexpected things happen even to you, and then bonus…you show us how to overcome them and complete the job. Thank you for that.
And, call me crazy, but how you produce the video makes me feel like I’m right in the shop with you working on the vehicle. And that’s pretty cool!
Just my $0.02 – (screw inflation) 😉
My thoughts…
I like the videos. Your videos seem more real to what I experience when working on cars, then any other vehicles repair videos I’ve watched. Please, keep the good parts, the bad parts, and the unexpected parts, to me that’s what sets your videos apart from all the rest. I thought I was pretty poor at fixing things, because it seemed every time I did diagnostics or repairs it never went as smoothly as the repair videos I watched. Then I watch your videos, a trained professional with years of experience, and you show us that bad things/unexpected things happen even to you, and then bonus…you show us how to overcome them and complete the job. Thank you for that.
And, call me crazy, but how you produce the video makes me feel like I’m right in the shop with you working on the vehicle. And that’s pretty cool!
Just my $0.02 – (screw inflation) 😉
I suspect you’re right.
I think that is why it has taken so long for this problem to show up.
I lubed all the contacts points when I did the brakes last time around, and I think as it wore off it started acting up. I plan on sanding it down, now that I suspect that was what caused the problem to begin with.I suspect you’re right.
I think that is why it has taken so long for this problem to show up.
I lubed all the contacts points when I did the brakes last time around, and I think as it wore off it started acting up. I plan on sanding it down, now that I suspect that was what caused the problem to begin with.Thanks Eric.
The other day I took off driving after it had rained, and when I applied the brakes, it sounded and felt like the rear driver-side wheel locked up momentarily. So yesterday I tore into that drum and this is what I found upon really close inspection.
Everything inside the drum, including the drum itself looked great and it should, as the parts are only a year old. However,it appeared that at the top of the front facing shoe, where the metal part of the shoe made contact with the backing plate, that one contact point looked different, it looked dirty, and almost even rusty looking. Pulling on the parking brake cable, it seemed that the shoe was catching on that one spot. So I cleaned it up slapped some anti-sieze on there and put it back together. Drove the truck this morning with no issues, I will keep monitoring it for now.
After watching one of the brake videos, I’m thinking the shoe may have worn a groove into the backing plate overtime, and it catching there and I’m getting that sudden braking when there is enough pressure to push that shoe beyond that contact point and make contact with the drum.
Thanks Eric.
The other day I took off driving after it had rained, and when I applied the brakes, it sounded and felt like the rear driver-side wheel locked up momentarily. So yesterday I tore into that drum and this is what I found upon really close inspection.
Everything inside the drum, including the drum itself looked great and it should, as the parts are only a year old. However,it appeared that at the top of the front facing shoe, where the metal part of the shoe made contact with the backing plate, that one contact point looked different, it looked dirty, and almost even rusty looking. Pulling on the parking brake cable, it seemed that the shoe was catching on that one spot. So I cleaned it up slapped some anti-sieze on there and put it back together. Drove the truck this morning with no issues, I will keep monitoring it for now.
After watching one of the brake videos, I’m thinking the shoe may have worn a groove into the backing plate overtime, and it catching there and I’m getting that sudden braking when there is enough pressure to push that shoe beyond that contact point and make contact with the drum.
When should you start running a high mileage oil? Seems like different oil manufacturers have differing opinions. And then when you do, should you run full synthetic, blended synthetic, conventional, etc?