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Went searching for a vacuum leak, and didn’t find anything. Tried resetting the PCM for the 4th time, no luck there. So I took it to a mechanic.
Just got a call, and he’s telling me my pcm has an internal short, and I need to replace the computer. I don’t remember the code he gave me, but evidently my scanner wasn’t able to read it, because I checked for codes a few times and came up empty.
He was still looking to find a used unit, was going to call me back with a price.
Any suggestions where to get a computer for cheap? Preferably a fully programmed computer? 15 year old truck…kinda hard to dumb a whole lot of cash into her.
Went searching for a vacuum leak, and didn’t find anything. Tried resetting the PCM for the 4th time, no luck there. So I took it to a mechanic.
Just got a call, and he’s telling me my pcm has an internal short, and I need to replace the computer. I don’t remember the code he gave me, but evidently my scanner wasn’t able to read it, because I checked for codes a few times and came up empty.
He was still looking to find a used unit, was going to call me back with a price.
Any suggestions where to get a computer for cheap? Preferably a fully programmed computer? 15 year old truck…kinda hard to dumb a whole lot of cash into her.
Thanks CollegeMan.
Sorry, I forgot to mention that. I did scan, there were no codes, no engine light.I did do a visual inspection for vacuum leaks, but didn’t spray for it.
My hearing may not be the best, but I can’t hear a leak either.
I will try spraying for it tonight and see what I find, and then report back.
For my understanding, I always thought a vacuum leak would make the engine sluggish and run rough, and not what I’m experiencing. Is my understanding wrong on this?
My engine is idling high, but smooth, it doesn’t sound bad.
Thanks CollegeMan.
Sorry, I forgot to mention that. I did scan, there were no codes, no engine light.I did do a visual inspection for vacuum leaks, but didn’t spray for it.
My hearing may not be the best, but I can’t hear a leak either.
I will try spraying for it tonight and see what I find, and then report back.
For my understanding, I always thought a vacuum leak would make the engine sluggish and run rough, and not what I’m experiencing. Is my understanding wrong on this?
My engine is idling high, but smooth, it doesn’t sound bad.
I tried hooking my scanner up to it, but it wouldn’t pull the codes so no luck there.
I think I would feel better knowing those systems were serviced properly and functioning as intended.
Having done some more research online now that I know where the problem lies, it appears this is a fairly well known problem with these trucks, and starting in 2000 they did away with this system all together. Looking at a couple other forums, as of last month, the seat belt modules are still on a “national” back order because they have had so many issues with them. :angry:
I guess it’s off to the dealership to see what they have to say about it. 🙁
I tried hooking my scanner up to it, but it wouldn’t pull the codes so no luck there.
I think I would feel better knowing those systems were serviced properly and functioning as intended.
Having done some more research online now that I know where the problem lies, it appears this is a fairly well known problem with these trucks, and starting in 2000 they did away with this system all together. Looking at a couple other forums, as of last month, the seat belt modules are still on a “national” back order because they have had so many issues with them. :angry:
I guess it’s off to the dealership to see what they have to say about it. 🙁
Well, after some more inspection I found it. The source of the battery draw was due to the seat belt control timer module drawing power. Evidently this should occur up to 30 minutes after exiting the vehicle, and then shut off, which mine appears not to be doing. The seat belt module connects with the door jamb switches, the airbag system, and two different solenoids (one in each seat)that controls the seat belt latching and releasing. So I’m guessing the problem could also not be the module itself, but anyone of these other systems that it talks with?
I also found that my passenger seat belt is not being released, which If I understand correctly could be a bad solenoid inside the seatback, or the wiring leading up to it. After messing with the connectors last night, I now have my seat belt indicator light on my dash, alerting me to their being a problem.
Dealing with SRS… should I keep going and try to determine what part is at fault in this system or should I take it to the dealership and have them address it?
Lastly, if someone would like to borrow me one of those power probes like Eric has, I am convinced that would make this job ten times easier. 😉
Well, after some more inspection I found it. The source of the battery draw was due to the seat belt control timer module drawing power. Evidently this should occur up to 30 minutes after exiting the vehicle, and then shut off, which mine appears not to be doing. The seat belt module connects with the door jamb switches, the airbag system, and two different solenoids (one in each seat)that controls the seat belt latching and releasing. So I’m guessing the problem could also not be the module itself, but anyone of these other systems that it talks with?
I also found that my passenger seat belt is not being released, which If I understand correctly could be a bad solenoid inside the seatback, or the wiring leading up to it. After messing with the connectors last night, I now have my seat belt indicator light on my dash, alerting me to their being a problem.
Dealing with SRS… should I keep going and try to determine what part is at fault in this system or should I take it to the dealership and have them address it?
Lastly, if someone would like to borrow me one of those power probes like Eric has, I am convinced that would make this job ten times easier. 😉
Checked the glovebox light, that was good. There is no underhood light, so no worries there. I pulled everything from the ignition switch and that didn’t seem to have an effect either. Being at a loss, I just started pulling connectors, and found that connector C203 when unplugged also eliminates draw. Not sure if that really helps me though, as I have no idea what that connecter is even doing. I attached a picture of the connector I pulled. Does seem that the connector shows up in wiring diagram for fuse 12 though, so I’m guessing they are related. On a side note, I discovered a light bulb that was burnt out and a cigarette lighter that wasn’t working so I got those fixed. Got to take a win anywhere I can as this is frustrating.
So start pulling modules next?
Checked the glovebox light, that was good. There is no underhood light, so no worries there. I pulled everything from the ignition switch and that didn’t seem to have an effect either. Being at a loss, I just started pulling connectors, and found that connector C203 when unplugged also eliminates draw. Not sure if that really helps me though, as I have no idea what that connecter is even doing. I attached a picture of the connector I pulled. Does seem that the connector shows up in wiring diagram for fuse 12 though, so I’m guessing they are related. On a side note, I discovered a light bulb that was burnt out and a cigarette lighter that wasn’t working so I got those fixed. Got to take a win anywhere I can as this is frustrating.
So start pulling modules next?
I’m with 13aceofspades13.
Look at replacing the fuel filter if you haven’t done so.
As I have experienced, when the fuel filter was found to be the problem, the symptoms you listed are right on.I’m with 13aceofspades13.
Look at replacing the fuel filter if you haven’t done so.
As I have experienced, when the fuel filter was found to be the problem, the symptoms you listed are right on.Both sensors by the thermostat housing are coolant temp sensors. Later on, I believe, they actually did away with one of the coolant sensors. If you go to the parts store, they often differentiate the coolant sensors, by calling one a sensor and the other a sender.
The other sensor on the top of the keg you show is your air temp sensor.
