Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
I’m sorry I forgot to mention that I have cleaned the tb and and the iac port when replacing the iac. It wasn’t dirty, but I did it anyway, and it did not help.
Installed OE injector yesterday and to my surprise it fixed the issues. No longer have a long crank on starting and the fuel trim numbers look great. I’m just shocked that one leaky injector could cause so many problems and such severe problems. Glad I didn’t just throw parts at it. Thanks for help.
Swapped the old leaky injector back in and everything seemed to return back to normal. I’m guessing they gave me a bad injector. I know better than to buy BWD products. I think I will pick one up from the dealer and see what happens.
It is a negative 33% (-33%). It sounds like one of the injectors is firing off like a machine gun at idle. Is it possible I got a bad injector or the wrong injector? The battery was disconnected while I was changing everything. Any reason to unplug the battery again?
So I pulled the injectors and found that cylinder 8 injector was leaking. Pulled the plug on it, and it was wet. I replaced the injector and put a new set of plugs in since I was already there and the old ones looked shot. I also put new o-rings on the bottoms of the injectors before I put them back in.
Truck fired right up, but now is running really rough. It’s stumbling on itself, and wants to die at idle. Of course its not throwing any codes, but the live data shows it is running super rich….like – 33%. Where do I go from here? How do I determine what’s gone wrong?
Thanks for the information. That is good to know. As you suggested, I plan on pulling the injectors, pressurizing them, and try to determine if any or which ones are leaking. I plan right now, to just replace the injector or injectors that are leaking and call it good. They are easy to get to, so If I have to get back at them, it really isn’t that much work. I’ll report back what I find, and hopefully find the cause of my long crank.
The systems on these trucks are different than normal. The fuel system on the truck does not contain a separate return line like you would traditionally expect. You have a fuel line running into the fuel rail and that’s it. The pressure regulator sits on top of the fuel pump, so their is no way to access it, unless you drop the tank and pull the pump. (I’ve attached a pdf from the service manual that notes this, just so we don’t get stuck on how the system works)
Trying to test the regulator as you suggested isn’t an option. I wish it was that easy. You are right though, pulling the injectors wouldn’t be hard at all, and I should be able to tell quickly which one(s) are leaking once pressurized. My next thought, is given the age and mileage of the truck, (2001, 150k miles) should I just replace the bad one(s) or should I being looking at just replacing all the injectors at this point anyways?
So i checked fuel pressure. KOEO pressures around 44/45, engine running it’s 48/49. Service manual says it should be 49 +/- 5psi…so I think I am good there. I was able to isolate the injector side and fuel pump side of the system. Thing is, they both lost fuel pressure over time. The injector side lost about 25psi in 15 minutes(45psi to 20psi), the fuel pump side was similar in that it also lost pressure, but at a slower rate 15psi in 15 minutes. Thoughts?
The injector side shouldn’t lose any pressure at all should it?
The fuel pump side should bleed down slowly overtime correct?Hey Eric,
Never used the glue before, but as I was watching the video I had a thought.
Maybe next time you use it, put the powder on one of the surfaces, and then put the liquid glue on the other surface and then mate the two surfaces together. Wouldn’t have to hope the glue would pull itself into the crack then. I suppose it all depends on how quickly the liquid glue itself dries, if you would have time to do it this way. Just a thought.So for the conclusion to this thread…
Picked my truck up from the mechanic Friday night. I made the decision I would try messing with it some more before buying a new computer and installing it.
I went and bought a new IAC…cheapest one I could find was a masterpro from oreilly’s for $27. I wasn’t going to go drop another $100 at the dealership for one like I had just done last year.
I checked continuity from the iac connector to the plug on the computer, and all checked out okay. I pulled the connector from the computer and clean the pcm and connector with some electronic cleaner and compressed air. I also bent down a small tab on the connector to the IAC, just to make sure it was making contact with the iac pins. Stuck the new iac in, and she fired right up.
I’m tempted to go install one of the other two iac valves in to see if the problem comes back, just to see if cleaning the computer and connectors fixed it, or if I had two bad iac’s, but it’s been really cold here, and I’m just happy it’s working again. If I had to guess, I think it probably was yet another bad iac valve.
We’ll see how long this $27 masterpro lasts. If it makes it longer then 18 month’s it will have beaten out the dealership crap from dodge, and at a third of the cost. end rant
So for the conclusion to this thread…
Picked my truck up from the mechanic Friday night. I made the decision I would try messing with it some more before buying a new computer and installing it.
I went and bought a new IAC…cheapest one I could find was a masterpro from oreilly’s for $27. I wasn’t going to go drop another $100 at the dealership for one like I had just done last year.
I checked continuity from the iac connector to the plug on the computer, and all checked out okay. I pulled the connector from the computer and clean the pcm and connector with some electronic cleaner and compressed air. I also bent down a small tab on the connector to the IAC, just to make sure it was making contact with the iac pins. Stuck the new iac in, and she fired right up.
I’m tempted to go install one of the other two iac valves in to see if the problem comes back, just to see if cleaning the computer and connectors fixed it, or if I had two bad iac’s, but it’s been really cold here, and I’m just happy it’s working again. If I had to guess, I think it probably was yet another bad iac valve.
We’ll see how long this $27 masterpro lasts. If it makes it longer then 18 month’s it will have beaten out the dealership crap from dodge, and at a third of the cost. end rant