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Update: I guess that might not have been the complete solution. The next day the battery drained again. This time I noticed that the Lead battery post spacer, that was added to the Positive post so that the clamp could be tightened up after years of getting stretched looked like it was sparking and had melted holes and such. So It apparently was not making a solid connection. So I just bought a new battery and no problems now. Except the SRS light is still on, and I tried doing the SRS reset procedure and at the end I get 3 blinking lights instead of 2, and the SRS light still remains on. I tried jumping the OBD pins 9 and 4 to see if it blinked out a code, but no lights blinked anywhere on the dash. The SRS has been on since the Shop removed the dash Gauge and heater/radio consoles. Anyone have a clue about how to figure out the SRS light problem? Autozone scanner said that the drivers seatbuckle wasnt working properly, and ABS. Could this be the SRS code reason?
Hey, how do I check to see if there is AC voltage going on from the alternator, at times instead of DC volts? and what figures should I be expecting as good and bad?
,Nope not fixed yet. 🙁
Drove around today (no dashlight indicators lit except SRS). After parked for 4 hours, went to start it, wouldnt turn over. I retightened the battery posts, and it started. Drove a few miles, stopped for gas, turn it off, it wont turn on. dashlights almost completely dim. Got a new battery to limp home. Got home checked with voltmeter at the posts (while running) 14.6v, turned on high beams 14.75volts. Will test alt on the car tomorrow and go from there. wtf??I forgot to mention that this also turned off the Brake, and Battery lights indicators. So no more problem now. Yeahhhh!!!!
Well I should change the title to: Alternator test bad on vehicle but test good off vehicle, and brake and battery light remain on after Dash gauge light bulb change to LED bulbs.
SOLUTION WAS : one of the dash gauge connectors was NOT plugged in completely! The second one specifically. Even though all the lights worked and gauges worked still. Soooo weird. After reconnecting it the voltage tested at the battery, with car running, was 14.44v.What a brain puzzler!!! It is so weird that the alternators test ok off the vehicle but when tested in the car it was not putting out the correct voltage. And the only clue was brake light and battery light were on constantly.
There were no fuses blown either under hood or inside. I bought a New alternator(bench tested good prior to install) and when on the vehicle its regulator is tested bad. 3rd alternator so far. Each one retested after removing from the vehicle and all test good. Buddy told me it might be the Body Control Module( Multiplex Control Unit), I pulled the passenger side one and ran the tests for voltage and Continuity according the Honda troubleshooting method, and there were several fails that indicated somewhere a grounding failure or an open wire. I have not tested the other 2 MCU’s because this is way above my ability for tracking down open wires and such. Dropped it off today at an alternator shop and he said he would track it down.
Hey on the 2 pin service connector can you jump it with a piece of wire? The manual says not to do that but rather uses some Honda Service Connector (which looks like a wire loop to me).
[quote=”ukrkoz” post=126022]STOP!!!!!
STOP right there. Go back and start over. With TDC #1 determined, as only THEN you can adjust the valves.[/quote]
Did you not look at the pictures I posted?
My question was what is the proper way to set BOTH THE CAM AND CRANK PRIOR TO ADJUSTING VALVES.good god.
[quote=”Shanazon” post=125997]You really need to figure out if the cam pulley and crank pulley are aligned properly. Double and triple check this to make sure that they’re OK. If they’re not, then you’re going to have to take it apart and make sure that the timing is dead on before you adjust your valves. Make sure it’s right and your head will thank you.[/quote]
What is wrong with people? Seriously, stay away from xbox, HFCS, and vaccines.
My title to the post was “How to set cam and Crank prior to valve adjustment.”, and you basically respond with: “You really need to set cam and crank prior to valve adjustment.” NO SH*T. duh.Thanks for the help.