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I would say yes, when replacing steering components an alignment is usually necessary, and if the steering wheel is tilted but your driving straight, that would also indicate that you may need an alignment.
The factory mass produces those parts, so rather than produce two different types of rads, they just make the most complicated part and supply you with the necessary parts to retro fit it for your application. Lots of guys have taken lines off wrecked cars, plugged or crimped the ends and used that as a way to seal off the ports. You can buy plugs from the same part store that will do the same thing, but a word of caution, don’t use plastic! technically you could leave the ports open, as, no fluid runs through that area of the rad, therefore you would not experience any leakage form that area either.
The factory mass produces those parts, so rather than produce two different types of rads, they just make the most complicated part and supply you with the necessary parts to retro fit it for your application. Lots of guys have taken lines off wrecked cars, plugged or crimped the ends and used that as a way to seal off the ports. You can buy plugs from the same part store that will do the same thing, but a word of caution, don’t use plastic! technically you could leave the ports open, as, no fluid runs through that area of the rad, therefore you would not experience any leakage form that area either.
Yeah I would agree with you, I don’t think the two issues are related, as I tried to move the belt and pulley previous to starting it, I found that everything moved freely. A voltage drop test and cable inspection are in order I think. Thanks for the help.
Yeah I would agree with you, I don’t think the two issues are related, as I tried to move the belt and pulley previous to starting it, I found that everything moved freely. A voltage drop test and cable inspection are in order I think. Thanks for the help.
Thanks for the video, it confirmed what I was originally thinking. Thanks for taking the time to find and upload that video!
Thanks for the video, it confirmed what I was originally thinking. Thanks for taking the time to find and upload that video!
If the grinding noise does not occur during braking, then it’s not likely to be an issue with the brakes. If you feel the grinding noise coming through the car, try to narrow down what component you feel the sound coming through- steering wheel, floor boards, etc. That might give a better idea where to look for loose or broken parts.
If the grinding noise does not occur during braking, then it’s not likely to be an issue with the brakes. If you feel the grinding noise coming through the car, try to narrow down what component you feel the sound coming through- steering wheel, floor boards, etc. That might give a better idea where to look for loose or broken parts.
That was extremely helpful, thanks for taking the time to look up that info for me!
That was extremely helpful, thanks for taking the time to look up that info for me!
The best store bought option is J-B weld, the area needing repair needs to be really clean and really dry, but it does work. J-B weld is a two part epoxy so you have to mix it to a grey finish and it takes a long time to dry but I have used it to seal fuel tanks and it works well.
The best store bought option is J-B weld, the area needing repair needs to be really clean and really dry, but it does work. J-B weld is a two part epoxy so you have to mix it to a grey finish and it takes a long time to dry but I have used it to seal fuel tanks and it works well.
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