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not hard to tell which side was dragging…they’re reversed in the pic, though. drivers side ones are on the right.
Dug some more today.
Pads are burned up severely on the drivers side, there’s about half of the friction material when compared to the pass. side.
Even though they’re worn like crazy, the pads were moving freely and so were the sliders.
The E brake is not the problem as I had originally suspected – It applies and retracts just fine, I got someone to watch it while I climbed up in the car to try it a few times.
The caliper piston will turn in easily (though the multi-tool for the various caliper pistons is MISERABLE to use)….loosened the bleeder while I did this so as to not force any fluid back up into that stupid expensive Delco VI unit.
Only thing left is the hydraulic hose on that side. I’ll have time in the shop on Friday to install the new hydraulic hose and pads. I’ll let you know how that goes, but it’s prettymuch the only thing that is left that could be causing that wheel to drag.
I don’t think it could be an ABS problem because the Delco VI is 3 channels – 2 front and a shared channel for the rear. If it were dragging in the rear because of the ABS it would be doing it on both wheels, as I understand it.
There is MUCH more effort needed to spin the wheel on one side. It’ll still spin but not as freely as the good side.
The piston retracts with equal amounts of force exerted on either side, and the calipers are not old. A year and a half ago, tops, they were replaced as a pair by the PO. Based on that I’m not suspecting the calipers sticking but something “upstream”.
I’ll know on Friday! A new flex hose is like 20 bucks and it doesn’t look like it’s ever been replaced. I’ll keep you posted.
thanks for the help/advice everyone
hey, good call, thanks! i’ll try that. that is what i was thinking about the hydraulic line not letting pressure off of the caliper
I am burning up my rear brake, at least on that side. When it’s been sticking it gets substantially hotter at that wheel than at the rest.
The pads were overheated and the rotor was slightly warped, so I machined it. I figured the problem was in the corrosion on the sliding surfaces on the sides of the pads so I cleaned it all up and put brake grease on. Seemed a bit better but they’re still sticking.
Quoted From Beefy:
It’s wierd that the Exploder was the only vehicle I’ve found that still offered the 5.0. You must’ve really done yer research to post an ‘I told ya so’.
Explorers and Mercury Mountaineers. The windsor was still made available for a while in the form of marine engines I think.
I didn’t do any research – I don’t know much but I know the small block Ford 😉
It’s a 96 Grand Prix.. GM parking brake assemblies are pretty similar so principles that apply to one can apply to all of them, the year isn’t really needed and the Chiltons guide doesn’t help me at all. Gives me a breakdown of how to rebuild it with all new parts but I don’t have all new parts….I just have a parking brake that decides to hang up from time to time and I want to find out what parts of the parking brake actuating assy. I should remove, de-rust, lube, and reinstall.
Quoted From dreamer2355:
95 was the last year Ford used the 302. So using a 95 and up motor would be pointless.
Look for something you can just drop in and not have to mess with any wiring and so forth.
Incorrect. 2001 Ford Explorer.
I think I know why he told you that but I’m not quite sure it applies to something like a crankshaft.
It was explained to me by someone who’s been doing it since dirt was new that it’s not advised to use an impact on a FWD axle nut, the shock transmits through the shaft(s) into the transmission and could potentially cause damage. I’ve never had a problem with it and the guy that told me said he’s only seen it maybe twice in 50+ years of working in the trade. Everyone uses an impact gun on axle nuts.
Should have mentioned TPS is new, as is the IAC, for whatever that’s worth. Replaced the TPS for an unrelated problem since the last time this P0101 was thrown.
Thanks for your thoughts guys. I’ve just begun scratching the surface of what you can do with scan tools and live data. Going to check things out next day my car is in the shop (tomorrow or at the latest Monday)
I’m fairly confident it’s an ignition problem as well, couldn’t find any vacuum leaks whatsoever.
Gonna look closer at the wires…didn’t find any voltage leaks but that doesn’t mean there aren’t any. I checked around the wires and all of the boots at night with a test light, didn’t get a light show at all. If I can’t find anything, a new set of wires is only like 35 bucks, and since I have no idea of their age it wouldn’t hurt me to replace ’em.
Haven’t done a power balance test because it’s been miserable outside. I’ll get to it soon and let you know.