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Well…if it is a maintanence free battery you should not be adding water or acid to it, in fact most dont even have any ports you can open to add anything to it. Regardless of that…I suppose it would depend on how much water you added and if u added any acid with the water or not and how much.
Without getting into all that I would suggest trying to place a battery from a diff car into it and giving it a go, if it starts then ur other battery is dead if not then its a connection or starter problem.
Do you get any clicking or whining from the starter when you key the ignition?
If you dont have an extra battery laying around and you have a jump box or a battery charger u could hook that up and try cranking it and it it turns over its your battery, if not then connection or starter.
Another thing I would suggest is try tapping on your starter lightly with a smallish hammer…many times light tapping will jar the starter into either re-making the electrical connection that has gone bad or droping the starter wheel into position so it can do what it is supposed to do…(this is not a fix…just a diagnostic trick!!!)
FYI…ur battery should be registering about 14v at rest and drop to around 11-12v when under load if your battery is OK, at least this is my experiance when buying used batterys from the junk yards.
Also…another common problem is the post connectors on the car side that connect to the batteries. Remove the connection and check for corrosion…then clean with post cleaner and a wire brush and or sandpaper, then reattach and check again. I personally like to start here cause I like to start with cheapest possible options first and work up from there.
Good luck…check these things I recommended and report back any new info and what has occured!
Hello Everyone!
My name is Brad K and I am an Auto Body Repair and Refinishing Tech. While I am not certified or trained in Mechanical repairs I am basically self taught at Mechanical and while I am sure I have no where near the knowledge of most of you that are either techs or certified I am more then capable of doing most diagnosis and repair of light to medium mechanical repairs…Where I fall short is knowing how to diagnose major mechanical problems and usage of the newer diagnosis equipment. Plus cause I dont have a lot of the diagnosis tools I am forced to diagnose things the old fashioned way…which in my opinion is a diagnosis form that is kinda lacking in training now days.
Anyhow…Nice to meet you all and look forward to talking with u guyz and picking brains here and there if and when needed.
Finally, if anyone has any auto body questions feel free to hit me up as that is where my real expertise is at!
~Brad~
Hello Everyone!
My name is Brad K and I am an Auto Body Repair and Refinishing Tech. While I am not certified or trained in Mechanical repairs I am basically self taught at Mechanical and while I am sure I have no where near the knowledge of most of you that are either techs or certified I am more then capable of doing most diagnosis and repair of light to medium mechanical repairs…Where I fall short is knowing how to diagnose major mechanical problems and usage of the newer diagnosis equipment. Plus cause I dont have a lot of the diagnosis tools I am forced to diagnose things the old fashioned way…which in my opinion is a diagnosis form that is kinda lacking in training now days.
Anyhow…Nice to meet you all and look forward to talking with u guyz and picking brains here and there if and when needed.
Finally, if anyone has any auto body questions feel free to hit me up as that is where my real expertise is at!
~Brad~
Yes…just as C&N said…it needs to be maybe we sanded a little with some 2000 grit wetsand paper and then buffed/waxed
Also…nothing u will do will likely ever totally eliminate this short of repainting but buffing and polishing will/might hide it for a little while. if it hides it for a little while then comes back it is likely u will need to re-apply wax whenever u see it begin to reappear.
Yes…just as C&N said…it needs to be maybe we sanded a little with some 2000 grit wetsand paper and then buffed/waxed
Also…nothing u will do will likely ever totally eliminate this short of repainting but buffing and polishing will/might hide it for a little while. if it hides it for a little while then comes back it is likely u will need to re-apply wax whenever u see it begin to reappear.
[quote=”DormanPartFail” post=123066]Check the intake manifold gasket for air leaks and ensure the bolts that hold it on are snug/tight.
Fuel pressure testing the system wouldn’t hurt either.[/quote]
Are the Intake Manifolds known for coming loose? Also…none of these problems were occuring before the pump line busted and I replaced the fuel sending unit…just seems strange that all these problems are suddenly occuring at same time/just after I replaced the pump.
Also…I replaced just one of the spark plugs on the same cylinder that I replaced the ignition coil on…could this kinda problem be occuring because I put a new plug in one cylinder and didnt replace the others???
[quote=”DormanPartFail” post=123066]Check the intake manifold gasket for air leaks and ensure the bolts that hold it on are snug/tight.
Fuel pressure testing the system wouldn’t hurt either.[/quote]
Are the Intake Manifolds known for coming loose? Also…none of these problems were occuring before the pump line busted and I replaced the fuel sending unit…just seems strange that all these problems are suddenly occuring at same time/just after I replaced the pump.
Also…I replaced just one of the spark plugs on the same cylinder that I replaced the ignition coil on…could this kinda problem be occuring because I put a new plug in one cylinder and didnt replace the others???
would a problem with the fuel pump in there be detectable with a fuel pressure tester, testing at the fuel rail?
would a problem with the fuel pump in there be detectable with a fuel pressure tester, testing at the fuel rail?
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