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ok…so I checked the fuel pressure regulator and it is fine…I tested to check if it was stuck open and tested to ensure that it wasnt stuck closed. Any other suggestions for the Rich Condition?
Someone suggested it could be a leak in the exhaust manifold gasket or that area but from my understanding a leak on the exhaust side would cause a lean condition not a rich condition correct? Well more specifically it would register in the O2 sensors as a lean condition cause exhaust gas would be escaping b4 the sensor and it would cause the fuel trim to richen not lean out…if I am misunderstanding how this works please do correct me! Same with a leak on the intake manifold…it would cause a lean condition not a rich condition…however I checked and intake manifold bolts are snug so not finger loose.
Please advise!
ok…so I checked the fuel pressure regulator and it is fine…I tested to check if it was stuck open and tested to ensure that it wasnt stuck closed. Any other suggestions for the Rich Condition?
Someone suggested it could be a leak in the exhaust manifold gasket or that area but from my understanding a leak on the exhaust side would cause a lean condition not a rich condition correct? Well more specifically it would register in the O2 sensors as a lean condition cause exhaust gas would be escaping b4 the sensor and it would cause the fuel trim to richen not lean out…if I am misunderstanding how this works please do correct me! Same with a leak on the intake manifold…it would cause a lean condition not a rich condition…however I checked and intake manifold bolts are snug so not finger loose.
Please advise!
GM:
10 Minute Learn Procedure
Tools Required:
NoneTurn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON (vehicle will not start).
Observe the SECURITY telltale, after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF.
Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds.
The vehicle is now ready to relearn the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or passwords on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK.Important
The vehicle learns the Passlock™ Sensor Data Code and/or password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle.Start the engine. The vehicle has now learned the Passlock™ Sensor Data Code and/or password.
With a scan tool, clear any DTCs if needed. History DTCs will self clear after 100 ignition cycles.GM:
10 Minute Learn Procedure
Tools Required:
NoneTurn ON the ignition, with the engine OFF.
Attempt to start the engine, then release the key to ON (vehicle will not start).
Observe the SECURITY telltale, after approximately 10 minutes the telltale will turn OFF.
Turn OFF the ignition, and wait 5 seconds.
The vehicle is now ready to relearn the Passlock Sensor Data Code and/or passwords on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK.Important
The vehicle learns the Passlock™ Sensor Data Code and/or password on the next ignition switch transition from OFF to CRANK. You must turn the ignition OFF before attempting to start the vehicle.Start the engine. The vehicle has now learned the Passlock™ Sensor Data Code and/or password.
With a scan tool, clear any DTCs if needed. History DTCs will self clear after 100 ignition cycles.Sounds like a bad connection…mainly a bad ground! These motors usually ground where the motor bolts to the door frame now days so you will likely need to pull the window regulator/motor off and clean corrosion off of the front and especially the backside of the door frame where the regulator and door frame connect as well as the bolt connecting the two.
Otherwise it is likely a short in the connector or wiring in the connector or the wiring inbetween the connector and the switch itself…also the connection between the wiring and door switch could also be the problem.
I would suggest taking it apart and inspecting closely for corrosion in any/all of the connectors as well as wiggling the connectors and wires just by the connectors and trying to activate the switch while it is acting up to see if you can identify exactly where the short is prior to complete teardown…often you can narrow down location by doing this without full teardown.
Can also sometimes get the ground to re-connect temperarily by tapping the ground connection bolts where the bolts attach the window regulator to the door frame while it is acting up…if u do this and it starts working again temporarily that means you have to take out the regulator system and clean any corrosion away from connecting bolts and and from where the door frame and regulator frame make connection.
Also…it is possible that your window motor is shot again but honestly I would be more suspicious of a ground connection in my opinion.
Good Luck
Brad
Auto Body TechSounds like a bad connection…mainly a bad ground! These motors usually ground where the motor bolts to the door frame now days so you will likely need to pull the window regulator/motor off and clean corrosion off of the front and especially the backside of the door frame where the regulator and door frame connect as well as the bolt connecting the two.
Otherwise it is likely a short in the connector or wiring in the connector or the wiring inbetween the connector and the switch itself…also the connection between the wiring and door switch could also be the problem.
I would suggest taking it apart and inspecting closely for corrosion in any/all of the connectors as well as wiggling the connectors and wires just by the connectors and trying to activate the switch while it is acting up to see if you can identify exactly where the short is prior to complete teardown…often you can narrow down location by doing this without full teardown.
Can also sometimes get the ground to re-connect temperarily by tapping the ground connection bolts where the bolts attach the window regulator to the door frame while it is acting up…if u do this and it starts working again temporarily that means you have to take out the regulator system and clean any corrosion away from connecting bolts and and from where the door frame and regulator frame make connection.
Also…it is possible that your window motor is shot again but honestly I would be more suspicious of a ground connection in my opinion.
Good Luck
Brad
Auto Body TechThis is a structural component that reinforces the structural strength of your A-Frame…while u likely would not have a problem occur just from driving it to the store or a repair facility rather then towing, I can not in good conscience tell you this is not important to re-attach.
Main time this part does anything is IN THE EVENT OF AN ACCIDENT…If you get into an accident this bar reinforces the frame so the frame and subframe can crumple in its designed crumple zones which it NEEDS TO DO TO SAVE YOUR LIFE…Crumple zones are the reason people are not dying in almost every accident like they used to in the pre-90’s auto accidents that occured with full frame vehicles!!!
PLEASE TAKE THIS SERIOUSLY as it absolutely can affect the safety worthieness of your vehicle!!!
~Brad~
Auto Body TechnicianThis is a structural component that reinforces the structural strength of your A-Frame…while u likely would not have a problem occur just from driving it to the store or a repair facility rather then towing, I can not in good conscience tell you this is not important to re-attach.
Main time this part does anything is IN THE EVENT OF AN ACCIDENT…If you get into an accident this bar reinforces the frame so the frame and subframe can crumple in its designed crumple zones which it NEEDS TO DO TO SAVE YOUR LIFE…Crumple zones are the reason people are not dying in almost every accident like they used to in the pre-90’s auto accidents that occured with full frame vehicles!!!
PLEASE TAKE THIS SERIOUSLY as it absolutely can affect the safety worthieness of your vehicle!!!
~Brad~
Auto Body TechnicianHere are all the Scanner Graphs that I have taken…Please keep in mind I have only driven this about 10 minutes since manually resetting the computer and I have not driven it enough yet to get the P0172 code to kick off yet…I figure another 10 – 20 minutes of driving will get the code and a freeze frame to be generated….till then this is what I have.
Please offer any suggestions or thoughts you might have with this live data info added into the infomation now provided…
My concerns… Is the rear O2 Sensor bad causing the loss of power…or would it be more likely for a bad catalytic converter to be causing this, or could this possibly be an injector problem or something else??? Please, any input is helpful!!!
Thanks,
[url=http://imgur.com/tytZXh7]
[url=http://imgur.com/R56xTrr]
[url=http://imgur.com/VcB3dW7]
[url=http://imgur.com/hGaKEL7]
[url=http://imgur.com/CWzoj31]
[url=http://imgur.com/q7kRsPl]
[url=http://imgur.com/ZdoOdpZ]
Here are all the Scanner Graphs that I have taken…Please keep in mind I have only driven this about 10 minutes since manually resetting the computer and I have not driven it enough yet to get the P0172 code to kick off yet…I figure another 10 – 20 minutes of driving will get the code and a freeze frame to be generated….till then this is what I have.
Please offer any suggestions or thoughts you might have with this live data info added into the infomation now provided…
My concerns… Is the rear O2 Sensor bad causing the loss of power…or would it be more likely for a bad catalytic converter to be causing this, or could this possibly be an injector problem or something else??? Please, any input is helpful!!!
Thanks,
[url=http://imgur.com/tytZXh7]
[url=http://imgur.com/R56xTrr]
[url=http://imgur.com/VcB3dW7]
[url=http://imgur.com/hGaKEL7]
[url=http://imgur.com/CWzoj31]
[url=http://imgur.com/q7kRsPl]
[url=http://imgur.com/ZdoOdpZ]Really should use a frame machine…however I have repaired my own car before by basically hooking up a good high quality chain to the damaged section and connecting it to a tree and pulling with a come along while hammering it to walk it out…if this doesnt work I would have used my “mobile Frame Machine…LOL…called my Chevy Silverado and wacking it which applies extra force but it is very easy to pull too much this way…I really dont recommend this unless you willing to deal with the reprocussions of pulling too much!” Also…You must USE a High quality Hardend steel chain of at least grade 3 or you will snap the chain and likely hurt yourself or someone else which is why I dont recommend this!
P.S. you can likely find a small shop that has a frame machine that is likely willing to do just the pull for you for a couple hundred dollars assuming you remove all the parts and get it “PULL READY” This is what I would suggest to you!
Really should use a frame machine…however I have repaired my own car before by basically hooking up a good high quality chain to the damaged section and connecting it to a tree and pulling with a come along while hammering it to walk it out…if this doesnt work I would have used my “mobile Frame Machine…LOL…called my Chevy Silverado and wacking it which applies extra force but it is very easy to pull too much this way…I really dont recommend this unless you willing to deal with the reprocussions of pulling too much!” Also…You must USE a High quality Hardend steel chain of at least grade 3 or you will snap the chain and likely hurt yourself or someone else which is why I dont recommend this!
P.S. you can likely find a small shop that has a frame machine that is likely willing to do just the pull for you for a couple hundred dollars assuming you remove all the parts and get it “PULL READY” This is what I would suggest to you!
These are a pain in the rear…when no pry angle is doable I use my auto body sliding dent repair hammer to remove em by hooking it to the axle and pounding on it in reverse…however it always destroys the axle in the process but who cares if it has to be removed anyhow…otherwise I have also just grabbed the end of the axle and pulled and yanked untill my arms felt like they were comming outta there sockets and just as u think u cant take it anymore it usually gives way. Also, sometimes requires 2 people too…one to pry with whatever force they can where the axle goes into the trans from under the car and the other to pull and yank on the axle from the side of the car…usually the force from both is enought to dislodge it!
These cars suck for taking out the axles but just requres elbow grease as they say. keep looking for something u can get in there to pry with and put ur back into it! FYI…I have even used ball joint spreaders to achomplish this but gotta be careful not to crack the transmission casing!
Good Luck
These are a pain in the rear…when no pry angle is doable I use my auto body sliding dent repair hammer to remove em by hooking it to the axle and pounding on it in reverse…however it always destroys the axle in the process but who cares if it has to be removed anyhow…otherwise I have also just grabbed the end of the axle and pulled and yanked untill my arms felt like they were comming outta there sockets and just as u think u cant take it anymore it usually gives way. Also, sometimes requires 2 people too…one to pry with whatever force they can where the axle goes into the trans from under the car and the other to pull and yank on the axle from the side of the car…usually the force from both is enought to dislodge it!
These cars suck for taking out the axles but just requres elbow grease as they say. keep looking for something u can get in there to pry with and put ur back into it! FYI…I have even used ball joint spreaders to achomplish this but gotta be careful not to crack the transmission casing!
Good Luck
Well…if it is a maintanence free battery you should not be adding water or acid to it, in fact most dont even have any ports you can open to add anything to it. Regardless of that…I suppose it would depend on how much water you added and if u added any acid with the water or not and how much.
Without getting into all that I would suggest trying to place a battery from a diff car into it and giving it a go, if it starts then ur other battery is dead if not then its a connection or starter problem.
Do you get any clicking or whining from the starter when you key the ignition?
If you dont have an extra battery laying around and you have a jump box or a battery charger u could hook that up and try cranking it and it it turns over its your battery, if not then connection or starter.
Another thing I would suggest is try tapping on your starter lightly with a smallish hammer…many times light tapping will jar the starter into either re-making the electrical connection that has gone bad or droping the starter wheel into position so it can do what it is supposed to do…(this is not a fix…just a diagnostic trick!!!)
FYI…ur battery should be registering about 14v at rest and drop to around 11-12v when under load if your battery is OK, at least this is my experiance when buying used batterys from the junk yards.
Also…another common problem is the post connectors on the car side that connect to the batteries. Remove the connection and check for corrosion…then clean with post cleaner and a wire brush and or sandpaper, then reattach and check again. I personally like to start here cause I like to start with cheapest possible options first and work up from there.
Good luck…check these things I recommended and report back any new info and what has occured!