Forum Replies Created
-
Replies
-
Thanks for the reply. (When I referred to “won’t start” I should have noted “won’t crank”) What confuses me is that it is completely dead – no cranking, no lights, remote won’t even open the door. I’ve asked my daughter if she’s noticed the car cranking slower in the days leading up to the failure – nothing. I really want to swap cars with her just so I can measure the battery voltage on the day it is dead.
What could lead to no absolutely no current but be overcome by a jump start?
Thanks for the reply. (When I referred to “won’t start” I should have noted “won’t crank”) What confuses me is that it is completely dead – no cranking, no lights, remote won’t even open the door. I’ve asked my daughter if she’s noticed the car cranking slower in the days leading up to the failure – nothing. I really want to swap cars with her just so I can measure the battery voltage on the day it is dead.
What could lead to no absolutely no current but be overcome by a jump start?
Eric,
Thanks for this reply and the other recent ones you provided on my Honda Accord ABS sensor saga!
AlEric,
Thanks for this reply and the other recent ones you provided on my Honda Accord ABS sensor saga!
AlPengy – I do have sway bar bushings and have changed those – Twice. Including taking off the last set and lubing them with silicone grease. Good thought, though. I’ve been looking for other bushings to hit with silicone spray. Odd part is noise is same after all rubber parts I can identify (other than engine mounts) have been replaced. It seems odd that new parts would make same noise as old parts. But, as I’ve mentioned before, seems to me it has to be rubber that is affected by the change in temperature. I’ll be under that van for a while, this weekend.
Pengy – I do have sway bar bushings and have changed those – Twice. Including taking off the last set and lubing them with silicone grease. Good thought, though. I’ve been looking for other bushings to hit with silicone spray. Odd part is noise is same after all rubber parts I can identify (other than engine mounts) have been replaced. It seems odd that new parts would make same noise as old parts. But, as I’ve mentioned before, seems to me it has to be rubber that is affected by the change in temperature. I’ll be under that van for a while, this weekend.
John – sorry, I didn’t see your reply (trying to respond with my dog lying on my chest – new puppy)
No bearing noise and steering wheel is straight. Strut towers are fine (I still remember first time I saw complaints of rusted towers on NHTSA web site, about 5 years ago. I ran right out to the garage and popped the hood. What a relief – no rust. I’m going to run it through some tests on the drive into work, tomorrow. Try to hit a pot hole with each wheel to confirm they each make their own noise (I’m nearly positive each front wheel will respond independently. I’m sure I’ll crawl under it this weekend and, once again, keep looking for something rubber that may have shrunk in the cold. There’s a speed bump right at the entrance to our company parking garage – quite embarassing for the van to make such a noise in front of my co-workers. I take pride in keeping this thing looking and running good. This is driving me nuts but I refuse to give up.John – sorry, I didn’t see your reply (trying to respond with my dog lying on my chest – new puppy)
No bearing noise and steering wheel is straight. Strut towers are fine (I still remember first time I saw complaints of rusted towers on NHTSA web site, about 5 years ago. I ran right out to the garage and popped the hood. What a relief – no rust. I’m going to run it through some tests on the drive into work, tomorrow. Try to hit a pot hole with each wheel to confirm they each make their own noise (I’m nearly positive each front wheel will respond independently. I’m sure I’ll crawl under it this weekend and, once again, keep looking for something rubber that may have shrunk in the cold. There’s a speed bump right at the entrance to our company parking garage – quite embarassing for the van to make such a noise in front of my co-workers. I take pride in keeping this thing looking and running good. This is driving me nuts but I refuse to give up.Hey, College Man -helping me out, again. Thanks.
I did watch this video last year. It did remind me that I failed to mention that I did replace stabilizer links on both sides. This is a good reminder though – I’m going to try jacking it up and banging on the tires and jacking up under the oil pan.I’m convinced (or misguided) that it has to be related to rubber parts since there is no noise above the 35 degree mark.
Hey, College Man -helping me out, again. Thanks.
I did watch this video last year. It did remind me that I failed to mention that I did replace stabilizer links on both sides. This is a good reminder though – I’m going to try jacking it up and banging on the tires and jacking up under the oil pan.I’m convinced (or misguided) that it has to be related to rubber parts since there is no noise above the 35 degree mark.
John,
Thanks for responding – I haven’t touched the back end (although, I don’t know why – 2 shocks = $50 or $60, right and not a tough job)but noise is definitely in the front. I did inspect all motor mounts – they look fine. Defintely seems to be noise from the front corners, just forward of my feet.I don’t know if rattle is the right term because noise doesn’t linger – just sounds like something is loose and needs to be tightened up. If it were the struts, I really thought new Quick Struts would have done the trick. I realize Monroe isn’t top of the line but I would still expect it to take years for before any rubber components would shrink or deteriorate.
John,
Thanks for responding – I haven’t touched the back end (although, I don’t know why – 2 shocks = $50 or $60, right and not a tough job)but noise is definitely in the front. I did inspect all motor mounts – they look fine. Defintely seems to be noise from the front corners, just forward of my feet.I don’t know if rattle is the right term because noise doesn’t linger – just sounds like something is loose and needs to be tightened up. If it were the struts, I really thought new Quick Struts would have done the trick. I realize Monroe isn’t top of the line but I would still expect it to take years for before any rubber components would shrink or deteriorate.
Just realized I forgot one piece of information – I paid dealer $120 ($128 with tax) for the diagnostic scan and resetting of codes. They did 2 test drives – one at operating temp and one cold. I’m in central NJ.
Regarding parts – I got the first sensor from Rock Auto (great prices) – with the holidays, I was OK with having the car out of commission after I broke the first sensor. For the second sensor and for the brake switch, I went to Advance Auto parts – they take all of my used oil and filters for recycling so I like to give them my business, as well.
Just realized I forgot one piece of information – I paid dealer $120 ($128 with tax) for the diagnostic scan and resetting of codes. They did 2 test drives – one at operating temp and one cold. I’m in central NJ.
Regarding parts – I got the first sensor from Rock Auto (great prices) – with the holidays, I was OK with having the car out of commission after I broke the first sensor. For the second sensor and for the brake switch, I went to Advance Auto parts – they take all of my used oil and filters for recycling so I like to give them my business, as well.
OK – here’s the scoop – service manager at dealership called and conveyed the technician’s comments – cleared all of the codes and took the car for a test drive – everything is fixed – no new or repeat codes. Said that hard shifting of the trans might have set a code but probably was a sensor issue. I did bring the car back to the trans mechanic, 2 weeks ago, at the 500 mile check up. I pointed out the hard shift between first and second. He said to give it time to wear in. Honda mechanic agreed and suggested it might take up to 1,000 miles. Mechanic said trans work looked good and doesn’t think any wires were nicked during the work. I had already checked that – everything seemed to be protected by hard plastic split wire looms.
I never spoke directly to a tech and my wife picked up car so I never got to ask how they replace sensor. However, the note I left when I dropped the car off, overnight, only mentioned sensors were replaced. When the service manager called me the first time he asked “when the hubs were pulled to replace the sensors…”. Maybe my recent work on the hubs was obvious? I still have to get an answer on that one from a Honda tech.
Again, thanks to everyone for the responses.
For anyone who searches ’03-’05 Accord ABS sensors in the future – if you don’t find any reference to some secret way to remove the sensors easily, prepare yourself for a few hours work – just “bite the bullet” – pull the hub and destroy the old sensor to remove it.