Forum Replies Created
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Yeah thats the next avenue i would pursue is make sure the system is charged. I wouldnt worry about the alternator with the voltage you stated, a compressor is a big amp draw so i wouldnt be to concerned about a little dimming. But i would pursue system pressure first then i would check out the compressor/compressor clutch assembly also like spelunkered said because your iac might be working decent now but the compressor is that much of a drag where the pcm is demanding the added rpm input and not letting the iac bring the idle back down plus it coincides with excessive headlight dimming and the erratic idle only when compressor is cycling. Could be a combo of low system pressure and a whooped compressor clutch. Poorly maintained cars can be like a big cause and effect game lol. Keep us posted i wanna see this fixed.
Also 2 dumb questions. First did you do a iac relearn after you cleaned it?
And have you checked the thing for vacuum leaks because the are famous for them? because normally a maf car will throw some code for a unmetered air leak but sometimes they dont catch it. If its a big enough leak the iac steps might be maxing out when you have the additional load of the compressor but it can easilly control idle without the extra load. Usually it will throw a cel for that too but sometimes eec v cars are weird lol. Just some more food for thought lolI would check for carboned up iac passages or heavy carbon build up in the throttle body. The next thing i would possibly pursue is a carboned up or failing iac motor. To clean it i would remove it and hose it down good with some carb cleaner. When you re install it remove the positive battery cable let it sit for like fifteen minutes re attach it and start the vehicle. let it try to find its idle for a few mins then attempt to see if it will replicate the same symptoms
The compressor cycling could also be caused by low refrigarent charge but i would check the tb iac for the erratic idle symptoms.
Quoted From dreamer2355:
Here is my contribution and another forum C8-)
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=postlist&Board=16&page=1
I love that site also. I was thinking the same thing.
Im a turbo man all the way. I have built countless engines import and domestic and so many small block fords it would make your head spin. The beauty of a well tuned turbo engine is the ability to have very mild off boost driveability and when you put the hammer down its on.The lag concerns arise when you have small displacement ,mismateched components, or a incredibly big turbo lol. for streetability you have to empasize where you want power curve. Putting the power towards the top of the rpm band work in a race application where you are always high in the rpm range, im not saying that cant be streetable ive been in many fast hondas and even 9 sec mustangs that could be street driven, but its all about the whole package. From the gears to the trans to what operating range the engine was built for. I will say it is much harder to make power na without huge displacement numbers and sky high comp ratios. The thing with na is many more flow characteristics have to be evaluated because your not force feeding air down its throat. Also there is no parasitic power loss with a turbo system, the turbo i powered by heat and wasted exhaust gas vs. being attached to a pulley off the crank. N/A has its simplicity in the less is more kinda of thing. I also agree in the supporting mods aspect with spawned. Its all relative depending on budget and power goals, and how often do you want to turn a wrench. The other benefit i see in turbo setups is that turbos build boost under load and are not dependent on rpm like a supercharger is. Both well built engines will require tuning and depending on purpose and power it can be anywhere from minor to extensive but its a necessity to get every bit of power out of a given combo. Sorry for the long rant lol
Quoted From Chevypower:
Ashes to ashes,
And dust to dust,
If it wasn’t for Fords,
Our tools would rust.lmao. Us ford guys have one too
C=cracked H=heads E=every V=valve R=rattles O=oil L=leaks E=engine T=ticksdont get me wrong i dont dislike chevies lol shit i have owned a few including my trailblazer and enjoyed them very much. I also am a huge fan of ls engines, just Im a mustang man but they days of ford parts being uncommon are no where near as bad as back in the day. Pretty much any major parts manufacturer makes performance parts for them and the cost difference is not very much at all.
Quoted From Chevypower:
Let me know when you grow into Chevy. If you want to work on your shit ALL of the time, go buy a Found On Road Dead.
.Lmao dont you know only little boys wear bow ties hahaha.
I like advanced auto because if you know what you need ahead of time you can order online with huge coupons that you can find on different websites. Plus they ship site to store for free. I saved 48 dollars the other day on plugs and some trans stuff for my trailblazer.. I used a 40 dollar off a hundred dollar purchasecoupon.
Quoted From ClicknClack:
I’m having a hard time finding long handle combination wrenches here in the states. A large part of my job is alignments and I need the leverage to break loose stubborn lock nuts and eccentric cam bolts. Harbor Freight sells a decent set, but I need to find a place that sells individual wrenches. I lost my 22mm awhile back and I need a replacement 🙁
I have been a huge fan of mac knuckle saver 2’s in the long pattern. Their 22 will give you a hell oy alot of leverage. They arent cheap but they are a little wider profile then a snap on cus i feel snap on kinda cut into my hand when reefing on something.
Im a turbo man all the way. I have built countless engines import and domestic and so many small block fords it would make your head spin. The beauty of a well tuned turbo engine is the ability to have very mild off boost driveability and when you put the hammer down its on.The lag concerns arise when you have small displacement ,mismateched components, or a incredibly big turbo lol. for streetability you have to empasize where you want power curve. Putting the power towards the top of the rpm band work in a race application where you are always high in the rpm range, im not saying that cant be streetable ive been in many fast hondas and even 9 sec mustangs that could be street driven, but its all about the whole package. From the gears to the trans to what operating range the engine was built for. I will say it is much harder to make power na without huge displacement numbers and sky high comp ratios. The thing with na is many more flow characteristics have to be evaluated because your not force feeding air down its throat. Also there is no parasitic power loss with a turbo system, the turbo i powered by heat and wasted exhaust gas vs. being attached to a pulley off the crank. N/A has its simplicity in the less is more kinda of thing. I also agree in the supporting mods aspect with spawned. Its all relative depending on budget and power goals, and how often do you want to turn a wrench. The other benefit i see in turbo setups is that turbos build boost under load and are not dependent on rpm like a supercharger is. Both well built engines will require tuning and depending on purpose and power it can be anywhere from minor to extensive but its a necessity to get every bit of power out of a given combo. Sorry for the long rant lol