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Videos are up –
Test #3 – https://youtu.be/zViwK2j6mOM
Test #4 – https://youtu.be/xivlclB_ZHs
Test #5 – https://youtu.be/nr4p5MbXnk4Test #4 Video explains it in a bit more details, but basically I have disconnected the radiator inlet hose and just wanted to see how much it would “Flow”.
I didn’t have enough water flow to actually keep it going, so the tests do not last too long.
So I believe things are pointing towards the radiator now…
[quote=”nightflyr” post=197123]I can not say what the flow rate should be to the turbo.
But you should repeat that test for the input side of the radiator itself to see the true flow of the water pump.[/quote]OK, I setup another messy test on the car.
Video to come shortly, but the way its looking I don’t think its the water pump – perhaps I just have two poor heat dissipating radiators.
Hmmm, the inlet of the radiator (top section) hoses are quite large.
Will have to do some thinking on how I could rig up a similar test.
Alright in a last ditch effort to at least try and rule out a potential radiator or water pump issue, I tried to do a flow test. I did a little experiment this arvo – not sure how scientific and what it proves, but check it out and see what you think.
I am not sure what kind of flow rates a water pump should have – but should it be more then this ?
See these two very professional video’s and see what you fellas think;
While the car was on the dyno – the tuner reported the temps were going up under higher rpms.
He said in his experience the temps generally stay the same or drop due to the water pump working harder as the rpms increase.
I will try replacing the water pump I think
Results are in.
Have ran the car without the thermostat.
The temperatures were colder in the downhill idle conditions, but soon as throttle was applied the temperatures did the same thing – it took longer to get there due to no thermostat but ultimately if I mimicked the same driving conditions the car would ultimately reach 96c at 100km/h.
I ran water through the hoses with a funnel and everything seemed to flow well. I put the heater core back on and it has made no difference to the operating temperatures.
[quote=”nightflyr” post=197000]Sounds about right.
Subaru has an odd layout for the way they route their coolant.
Please post the no thermostat results when you get them.[/quote]Just thinking ahead of time here there will be two results I guess without running a thermostat.
1. The car will overcool
2. The car will have similar temps as when it was running with a thermostat.What do each of these results mean or lead to indicate?
I havn’t really considered a defective pump.
I have used GMB pumps on two other builds along with there tensioner’s and have not had any issues.
It looked pretty similar to the pump that was on the car prior the shortblock replacement, but I will take the timing covers of when I remove the thermostat and see if i can find anything of interest.
Thermostat is rated to start opening at 77c. Just asked some other subaru owners, general consensus seems to be temps around 86c-91c in all conditions.
They both had little jiggle pins at the top of the thermostat to let air through i am assuming.
Just another update – I still have the heatercore bypassed, and have replaced the thermostat.
I tested the new and old one side of by side in some warm water watching the temperatures change, the newer one opened a tiny bit sooner but I didn’t think it would make much difference.
Put the new one in and still seeing similar temps.
Will be trying no thermostat next as you have recommended.
I understand these temperatures are still not exactly “overheating” but getting temps of 98c at 100km/h cruising along seems to be pushing it.
I have bypassed the thermostat and unfortunately the temperatures seem pretty similar.
Perhaps its just a bad thermostat – I will try running the car without a thermostat and see how the temperatures behave.
Also the car had no cooling missing over night – so happy days (leaks fixed!)
I should also mention since I have owned the car – there have been heating issues for the cabin. Specifically it was the drivers side that had minimal heat, but now it’s reversed.
As far as I am aware there is only one blend door on this vehicle – there is no dual climate control.
So perhaps it might be pointing to a heater core issue – the heater core provides the thermostat with the heat required for it to operate (as does the turbo charger outlet) – but I assume the heater core may provide most of the heat for the thermostat.
So last night after I finished driving, I parked the car and topped up the coolant overflow beyond the full mark, in hopes to not allow the system to suck air back in after everything was cooling down.
Sucked out the excess this morning drove the car today, and parked it again – waiting till tomorrow to see if the level drops (fingers crossed I have fixed all the leaks and the level stays solid).
After confirming that, My plan is to either bypass the heater core or remove the thermostat and see how everything goes.
Which do you think would be a better diagnosis to try first?
Thanks nightflyr I appreciate your time and knowledge on the subject.
I will try the block test shortly, following that will try running without a thermostat to see how the temperatures and heat goes.