[Ben]

Have considered those too – but since starting it again – the noise sometimes goes away when i press the clutch pedal down and other times it stays…

[Ben]

Bumping up – Still having the whine, though have not been driving the car as i am scared something will break…

Started the car with the alternator belt off – no noticeable change in the noise. Played around with the clutch freeplay – didn’t make any difference.

After pulling the box, stripping it down, new throw out bearing the noise is still there.

I will get some video footage of the noise.

[Ben]

Noise is so hard to diagnose…. sometimes it comes in with the clutch pedal in, sometimes it doesn’t.

I think I will just drive the car and when the problem happens I will know for sure…

Just a a complete loss of what to do next

[Ben]

I started the car before and had a good listen.

There are two noises, one is the release bearing which I think may just need the freeplay taken out (correct me if this is wrong).

The other noise – I could hear it while I was in neutral, standing still, revving the car between 2,000-2,500rpm constantly.

The noise was still there with the clutch pedal pressed down as well.

This is starting to make me think it may not be anything drivetrain related, due to hearing the whine/sequel while not moving and in neutral/clutch down. …perhaps it could be a accessory making me look in the wrong spot?

Will be taking off the belt that runs the Alternator/Power steering and seeing how it goes. I also noticed the car started a tad slower then normal even after running recently last night, thinking maybe my alternator may be making the noise or some bearing somewhere is failing causing the drag issue.

See how we go…

[Ben]

Hmmm – I have not considered the carrier bearing – (assuming you mean the part in between rear tail shaft.)
I have not replaced the carrier bearing, only the front drive shafts and the clutch release bearing.

The shafts looked physically the same from memory – I don’t have my old driveshafts anymore unfortunately.

This car haha – thanks for all your help so far nightflyr

[Ben]

Think I may have found the problem, engine mount looks to be cracking..

Subaru Engine Mount

[Ben]

I am starting to think the same thing….maybe bush’s in the control arms? Though it would need a massive amount of movement to pop the thing apart

Things to note;
Engine mounts are new
Pitchstop is new
Clutch is new
Car doesn’t make any weird noises while driving gently
gears select fine and no grinds while changing gears

[Ben]

Circled Bit is the section that comes apart, the band that holds the boot is forced off and bearings inside spit out with it coming out of the housing

Attachments:

• ce798e88b55c5df00fdf16b0714de364

[Ben]

Car is back together.

Items replaced with Genuine Brand new parts;

Water pump
Thermostat
Temp sensor

Car seems to be cooling correctly to my knowledge now.

The highest I have had while moving is 91c going up a hill. Was doing this on purpose, loading the motor up when I probably should have down shifted, but none the less.

Temps seem to stay around 85c range give or take two degrees or so depending on load/speeds.

Fans kick on and bring the temps down, they normally don’t run for very long either.

Just running water for now, but so far so good!

[Ben]

I did a quick comparison, there were some small differences, mainly the genuine pump is about 5mm deeper near the blades.

I couldn’t turn the pulley independently of the blades/impeller

[Ben]

So I noticed while the car is idling in the shed, the temps will reach 95c, the fans will kick on. the temp will drop to 94c with the fans running…and just stay there…with the fans running.

Have bitten the bullet and pulled the pump tonight – Have a brand new genuine pump to go in, minor difference’s between the GMB pump and the Genuine one – Genuine having higher quality when directly compared.

Going to try running some water through everything with the hose and see if there is any obvious signs of a blockage.

[Ben]

Just thought I would update again – replaced the temp sensor, same readings so temp sensor was good.

Only thing thats left is the water pump – such a shame as it is not even that old.

Will be ordering a genuine pump

[Ben]

Makes sense.

The flow from the turbo seems normal, I had somebody run a similar test and there’s seemed to flow similar. I will PM you the video.

[Ben]

Thanks!

I don’t think I linked the play list correctly, I have updated the link.

I will try and track down a rad cap with a temp gauge on it thats a quick and easy way to verify!

[Ben]

Just a update on this;

I have yet to try your setup shown where the water can at least recirculate, but I want to say that I think my water pump is ok, without seeing your reply I actually tried to do some similar tests, but naturally ran out of water to verify a consistent flow. My theory is that if the flow was not consistent – I would be seeing a actual over heat with temps well over 100c (just a thought)

I had a friend drop off a known working radiator, and just to confirm the temps have not changed at all with the confirmed working radiator. They are exactly the same.

If my temps were 10c cooler across all conditions, it would be considered normal – maybe its my temp sensor.

[Author]

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