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I plan on using an fluid extractor to pull the fluid out though the dipstick tube. Seems like a lot less messy than dropping the pan (no drain port), full of fluid.
But I have to know how much to buy before I start.
I don’t plan on fixing it myself, but I want to at least know what’s going on with it. I want to have an educated discussion with the shop people not be one of those people that say “I dunno, the lights on”
Knowing what is it and how it works is always interesting, even if I don’t have the skills or tools to fix it.
Good because I don’t like the local dealer. Of course its has to start acting up during Christmas when they are busy (or closed).
The light only seems to come on during hard right hand turns.
Anywhere other than the dealer likely to be able to scan for airbag codes?
I think the CTEK unit I mentioned it geared more towards the professional repair shop. I like both brands myself. The CTEK does have an feature to supply 12 volt power to the car, so you can change the battery without loosing all your settings.
I look forward to watching your review.
They don’t make it easy do they.
You didn’t even mention diesel and biodiesel
Having not seen it before the issue, the battery holder looked deformed on the right and left side. I’m not sure if it was like that because someone tried to put a battery they was too big in it or the actual battery inside deformed.
No crank, no electrical power to anything.
4000 miles is nothing, you can run a whole year on the oil. I would suggest you switch to a full synthetic oil.
Eric, you missed or didn’t go into too much detail on sulfation. As far as charging, using a good quality desulfating battery charger can make the batter last significantly longer. If you are not going to be using your car for more than a couple of days, it should really be on a battery maintainer (desulfating battery charger).
[quote=”barneyb” post=130205][quote=”Boodieman72″ post=130140][quote=”barneyb” post=130048]Just my opinion, but if it stays pink and clean, I’d let it go until the system otherwise needs service.[/quote]
Looks more brown than pink.[/quote]
Most vehicles use ATF but some use hydraulic fluid. Hydraulic fluid is brown. Check your owners manual or maybe there is a sticker under the hood. If it started out pink and now is brown, yeah, time to change.[/quote]
It uses ATF, I checked. It’s just too bad I can’t find out what the fluid capacity is.
[quote=”Hayden” post=114275]hi i have a white car. Th paint is in good nick but its not that shiny… Is there anyway i can get it to look good? i know about cut and polish and all that but could someone explain how to properly do it[/quote]
First you need to get yourself a DA polisher, you could do it by hand but it will take forever. You need to get some compound and polish, depending on how hard the paint it, I would suggest starting with the Rupes UHS pad and polish combo.
Then you need to wash your car and use a clay bar to remove embedded contaminants. Then you need to polish until the paint is in the condition you want. Then you need to protect the paint, the best choice would be a paint coating, second best is a paint sealant and the least preferable is a wax.
If all this sounds like a lot of work, which it is if it done correctly, you know what detailers charge so much to do it.
This is a car I did, which took several days, and I’m a professional detailer
[quote=”barneyb” post=130048]Just my opinion, but if it stays pink and clean, I’d let it go until the system otherwise needs service.[/quote]
Looks more brown than pink.
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