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Awesome thanks for posting those man. Can’t wait to watch the new vids you have been posting as well!
Appreciate your time
Awesome thanks for posting those man. Can’t wait to watch the new vids you have been posting as well!
Appreciate your time
[quote=”EdHall23″ post=50934]he wouldn’t let me take it for a test drive by myself, i thought of that too. How easy is it to check relays? He said something about putting in a new battery in the cars when people buy them, with leads me to believe that he knows the battery will be dead in 8 hrs, which is a symptom of that bad relay.
I’m thinking that relay is draining the battery, a jump pack gets it to start, the alternator has to charge an almost completely dead battery, and when I turned it off the alternator didn’t have enough time to charge the battery enough to start. I’ve read that if a certain relay doesn’t have enough power it won’t start. Also they have a tsb for the 99 Taurus, concerning the wipers. 00-9-6
Also found this: http://www.v8sho.com/SHO/99tsb.html%5B/quote%5DCheck your PM. I will send you a message with a video for a quick, and easy to check the relay. If you need more info other then what’s in the video, just let me know.
[quote=”EdHall23″ post=50934]he wouldn’t let me take it for a test drive by myself, i thought of that too. How easy is it to check relays? He said something about putting in a new battery in the cars when people buy them, with leads me to believe that he knows the battery will be dead in 8 hrs, which is a symptom of that bad relay.
I’m thinking that relay is draining the battery, a jump pack gets it to start, the alternator has to charge an almost completely dead battery, and when I turned it off the alternator didn’t have enough time to charge the battery enough to start. I’ve read that if a certain relay doesn’t have enough power it won’t start. Also they have a tsb for the 99 Taurus, concerning the wipers. 00-9-6
Also found this: http://www.v8sho.com/SHO/99tsb.html%5B/quote%5DCheck your PM. I will send you a message with a video for a quick, and easy to check the relay. If you need more info other then what’s in the video, just let me know.
[quote=”Lord Ihcalam” post=50241]gotta be careful with bone yards tho. went and got a blower motor for my car and they wanted 30.00 for it. no negotiating. I could get a brand new one from autozone for 25, and just wait an extra day.[/quote]
Exactly. I was in the same boat. People think I`m cheap because I shop using promo codes, but I can usually get new parts way cheaper then the bone yards. Some things like driveshafts, special hoses, stuff that’s hard to get… I may consider the bone yard. In fact, my truck has a steel metal heater pipe that is like five feet long I need to look into replacing, because they only make the cheap rubber type for it now as a replacement. Didn’t think about rims though. Might check that out.
[quote=”Lord Ihcalam” post=50241]gotta be careful with bone yards tho. went and got a blower motor for my car and they wanted 30.00 for it. no negotiating. I could get a brand new one from autozone for 25, and just wait an extra day.[/quote]
Exactly. I was in the same boat. People think I`m cheap because I shop using promo codes, but I can usually get new parts way cheaper then the bone yards. Some things like driveshafts, special hoses, stuff that’s hard to get… I may consider the bone yard. In fact, my truck has a steel metal heater pipe that is like five feet long I need to look into replacing, because they only make the cheap rubber type for it now as a replacement. Didn’t think about rims though. Might check that out.
When I told him the mechanic was coming Saturday with a scan tool, he told me the owner didn’t allow it anymore, someone brought one once and screwed up something with another car.
That would turn me off big time. Sounds like an excuse to me. If they let you test drive the vehicle by yourself, I would drive for a bit, and find a parking lot, and scan it real quick. Basic OBDII scanners will not alter data, it just receives, and the chance of finding a code with those is slim without an engine light.
Big thing to check for when a car is sitting a long time is gaskets. If the car doesn’t start when turning it back on, it could be a dead cell in the battery which will give you a little power, or could be a bad alternator not charging the battery correctly.
Use a multimeter and test the battery . Should be 13ish-14 if the alternator is charging correctly. In order to get a precise reading on your multimeter, restart it and set it to 50 volt scale. After 15 seconds note the reading on the multimeter gauge.
If you have a 12 volt battery, the reading should be at least 9.6 on the multimeter for the battery to take charge. If it’s less than 9.6, then it’s time to opt for a new battery.
For your alternator you need Turn your multimeter to the 20 V setting. Start the engine. At this point, check to make sure the alternator pulley / belt is spinning properly without slipping. If the alternator is working well, your multi-meter should read somewhere in the vicinity of 14 volts (typically 13.8-14.2). If it is reading excessively higher than 14 volts (greater than 15 volts) it is possible that the voltage regulator on your alternator is faulty or going bad.
If it is reading lower than 13-14 volts, there are a number of possibilities as to the reason. First, it is possible that your engine idle speed is too low for the alternator to put out sufficient voltage/power. Try revving up the engine to 2000 RPM or higher and take a reading.
If the voltage is still too low, check to be sure all the connectors on your alternator are tight and that the alternator belt is not slipping and is spinning on the pulley correctly. If it is still not putting out sufficient power, then the alternator’s voltage regulator could be bad or the alternator itself may need replaced.
Hope everything works out for you.
When I told him the mechanic was coming Saturday with a scan tool, he told me the owner didn’t allow it anymore, someone brought one once and screwed up something with another car.
That would turn me off big time. Sounds like an excuse to me. If they let you test drive the vehicle by yourself, I would drive for a bit, and find a parking lot, and scan it real quick. Basic OBDII scanners will not alter data, it just receives, and the chance of finding a code with those is slim without an engine light.
Big thing to check for when a car is sitting a long time is gaskets. If the car doesn’t start when turning it back on, it could be a dead cell in the battery which will give you a little power, or could be a bad alternator not charging the battery correctly.
Use a multimeter and test the battery . Should be 13ish-14 if the alternator is charging correctly. In order to get a precise reading on your multimeter, restart it and set it to 50 volt scale. After 15 seconds note the reading on the multimeter gauge.
If you have a 12 volt battery, the reading should be at least 9.6 on the multimeter for the battery to take charge. If it’s less than 9.6, then it’s time to opt for a new battery.
For your alternator you need Turn your multimeter to the 20 V setting. Start the engine. At this point, check to make sure the alternator pulley / belt is spinning properly without slipping. If the alternator is working well, your multi-meter should read somewhere in the vicinity of 14 volts (typically 13.8-14.2). If it is reading excessively higher than 14 volts (greater than 15 volts) it is possible that the voltage regulator on your alternator is faulty or going bad.
If it is reading lower than 13-14 volts, there are a number of possibilities as to the reason. First, it is possible that your engine idle speed is too low for the alternator to put out sufficient voltage/power. Try revving up the engine to 2000 RPM or higher and take a reading.
If the voltage is still too low, check to be sure all the connectors on your alternator are tight and that the alternator belt is not slipping and is spinning on the pulley correctly. If it is still not putting out sufficient power, then the alternator’s voltage regulator could be bad or the alternator itself may need replaced.
Hope everything works out for you.
New Online promo codes:
Up to $40 Off Sitewide
Advance Auto Parts: Take $10 off $30, $25 off $70 and $40 off $110 orders. Expires 02/28/2013
Promo Code: A12415% Off $100 Sitewide + $50 Off Future Purchase
Advance Auto Parts: Take 15% Off Orders of $100+, Plus Get a $50 Coupon to Use On a Future $100+ Order, Now Thru 2/16/13
Promo Code: FE11$20 off $60+ Sitewide
Advance Auto Parts: Thru 2/20/13, Get $20 Off Any Order of $60 or More
Promo Code: MFD13Hope these can help you guys save extra cash! I will post new deals as I run into them
New Online promo codes:
Up to $40 Off Sitewide
Advance Auto Parts: Take $10 off $30, $25 off $70 and $40 off $110 orders. Expires 02/28/2013
Promo Code: A12415% Off $100 Sitewide + $50 Off Future Purchase
Advance Auto Parts: Take 15% Off Orders of $100+, Plus Get a $50 Coupon to Use On a Future $100+ Order, Now Thru 2/16/13
Promo Code: FE11$20 off $60+ Sitewide
Advance Auto Parts: Thru 2/20/13, Get $20 Off Any Order of $60 or More
Promo Code: MFD13Hope these can help you guys save extra cash! I will post new deals as I run into them
[quote=”L67brassCity” post=49398]OK, apparently the dealer can cut a new key from my VIN but I have to program it myself. Found the programing instructions on this site http://my.cardone.com/techdocs/PT%2077-0011.pdf Thanks for the help guys.[/quote]
Good to hear you got everything worked out!
[quote=”L67brassCity” post=49398]OK, apparently the dealer can cut a new key from my VIN but I have to program it myself. Found the programing instructions on this site http://my.cardone.com/techdocs/PT%2077-0011.pdf Thanks for the help guys.[/quote]
Good to hear you got everything worked out!
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=49470]Just do a search above on “throttle body” and you’ll see that many have attempted throttle cleaning by removing the throttle body only to find they have a no start or the vehicle won’t idle right. In my opinion there is no need to remove the throttle body to clean it. Considering the risk you undertake by removing it I don’t recommend that it gets removed to be cleaned.[/quote]
Gotcha. Interesting they were having issues. I have done it on a couple different vehicles with major success in idle, but I will take precautions for the future. Thanks for the input!
[quote=”EricTheCarGuy” post=49470]Just do a search above on “throttle body” and you’ll see that many have attempted throttle cleaning by removing the throttle body only to find they have a no start or the vehicle won’t idle right. In my opinion there is no need to remove the throttle body to clean it. Considering the risk you undertake by removing it I don’t recommend that it gets removed to be cleaned.[/quote]
Gotcha. Interesting they were having issues. I have done it on a couple different vehicles with major success in idle, but I will take precautions for the future. Thanks for the input!
Sometimes when you smell something when pushing on the brakes it could be due to a caliper locking up on ya. You might be smelling the pungent odor of brake linings being seared by heat from constant contact with the brake rotor.
The wheel with the stuck caliper will feel hot to the touch. Still more friction-related drama, including smoke and/or boiling brake fluid, may occur if you drive with a severely stuck caliper at freeway speeds.
I would also look into having your master cylinder, and break booster checked as well. If your seal on the master cylinder is bad, it can actually leak break fluid into the booster. It can suck fluid up the vacuum line into the motor and it can migrate to all the other lines.
A quick thing to check is making sure the reservoir cap is sealing properly. You could take the brake booster vacuum line off, and stick something in it like a cotton swab and see if it has fluid in it. (Please try not to get pieces of the swab caught/left in the line.)
Please keep us updated.