Forum Replies Created
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I use MOOG for upper/lower control arm bushings, ball joints, coil springs, shackle bushings, sway bar bushings & ends, things like this.
The stuff that is easy to replace, I use DriveWorks. Ti-rod, drag link, idler arm etc…
I compared the DriveWorks drag link to the OEM factory, and it was a lot better, and improved with zerk fittings, as well as castle nuts which is a lot safer to.
I guess it all depends on what the vehicle year is. If it is older like my 95 Chevy S10, Aftermarket manufactures can improve the part over time. Newer years it’s going to take a while.
I like Mobil 1 for oil, and wix, or Mobil 1 oil filter. They have more pleats then the OEM filter does, and the anti-drainback valves is not metal on metal like OEM.
For plugs I go OEM.
Please only buy filters from manufactures that actually make them. These brands below have stopped making their own filters and buy from a common manufacturer. This mean $0 budget on R&D to improve, and you get second hand garbage. :ohmy:
AC Delco Duraguard
Champ (Ecore)
Fram Extra Guard
Fram Double Guard
Fram High Mileage
Pennzoil
Quaker State
STPMobil 1 even takes time to research the oil bottle lol. Believe it or not, there is a right way to pour the oil. They even put a grip on there oil bottles so you can get a perfect smooth pour.
I use MOOG for upper/lower control arm bushings, ball joints, coil springs, shackle bushings, sway bar bushings & ends, things like this.
The stuff that is easy to replace, I use DriveWorks. Ti-rod, drag link, idler arm etc…
I compared the DriveWorks drag link to the OEM factory, and it was a lot better, and improved with zerk fittings, as well as castle nuts which is a lot safer to.
I guess it all depends on what the vehicle year is. If it is older like my 95 Chevy S10, Aftermarket manufactures can improve the part over time. Newer years it’s going to take a while.
I like Mobil 1 for oil, and wix, or Mobil 1 oil filter. They have more pleats then the OEM filter does, and the anti-drainback valves is not metal on metal like OEM.
For plugs I go OEM.
Please only buy filters from manufactures that actually make them. These brands below have stopped making their own filters and buy from a common manufacturer. This mean $0 budget on R&D to improve, and you get second hand garbage. :ohmy:
AC Delco Duraguard
Champ (Ecore)
Fram Extra Guard
Fram Double Guard
Fram High Mileage
Pennzoil
Quaker State
STPMobil 1 even takes time to research the oil bottle lol. Believe it or not, there is a right way to pour the oil. They even put a grip on there oil bottles so you can get a perfect smooth pour.
[quote=”McWicked” post=109082]Man, that looks like bacon grease. What is the texture like? Slimey, crunchy or rubbery?[/quote]
Yea man. It’s not pretty. Freaked me out when I seen it, because all I could picture is this crap inside the block. It has a gritty like texture to it, not so much a slime feel though.
I got some acid flush even though I am getting a new Rad, and heater core, just to try to get as much of this crap out of the block I can.
I just hope there is not much in the block to go back in the new rad, and core.
[quote=”McWicked” post=109082]Man, that looks like bacon grease. What is the texture like? Slimey, crunchy or rubbery?[/quote]
Yea man. It’s not pretty. Freaked me out when I seen it, because all I could picture is this crap inside the block. It has a gritty like texture to it, not so much a slime feel though.
I got some acid flush even though I am getting a new Rad, and heater core, just to try to get as much of this crap out of the block I can.
I just hope there is not much in the block to go back in the new rad, and core.
Yea I forgot to mention that I called the manufacture. Not to confident in there opinion. I asked them about a torque spec on the center bolt because shipping made it come loose.
He said it doesn’t have one. I told him that I would use red loctite. He said “NO DON’T DO THAT. IT WILL COLLECT DUST” I almost busted up laughing.
So yea… I thought I would ask here lol….
Appreciate the advice.
Yea I forgot to mention that I called the manufacture. Not to confident in there opinion. I asked them about a torque spec on the center bolt because shipping made it come loose.
He said it doesn’t have one. I told him that I would use red loctite. He said “NO DON’T DO THAT. IT WILL COLLECT DUST” I almost busted up laughing.
So yea… I thought I would ask here lol….
Appreciate the advice.
It could be an internal master cylinder leak, or the master leaking into the brake booster. This doesn’t always show external fluid signs. I would be very cautious and try not to drive this vehicle until you find the issue.
How is your brake fluid level?
Try this:
With the vehicle off, press the brake pedal several times. The brakes should become noticeably firmer (Doing this will cause you to use up any residual vacuum assist in the booster). If the pedal firms up (Very hard to press), then it’s possible that the issue is with the brake booster and not with the master cylinder.
If the master cylinder is bad, the pedal will sink even when the vehicle is off, and the vac is gone.
if the pedal firms up and doesn’t sink with the booster off, the master cylinder probably isn’t leaking internally.
Hope this helps you troubleshoot.
It could be an internal master cylinder leak, or the master leaking into the brake booster. This doesn’t always show external fluid signs. I would be very cautious and try not to drive this vehicle until you find the issue.
How is your brake fluid level?
Try this:
With the vehicle off, press the brake pedal several times. The brakes should become noticeably firmer (Doing this will cause you to use up any residual vacuum assist in the booster). If the pedal firms up (Very hard to press), then it’s possible that the issue is with the brake booster and not with the master cylinder.
If the master cylinder is bad, the pedal will sink even when the vehicle is off, and the vac is gone.
if the pedal firms up and doesn’t sink with the booster off, the master cylinder probably isn’t leaking internally.
Hope this helps you troubleshoot.
Hey Ukroz,
I think I may try the repair first. A little love, and JB weld should hold them together nicely. If that doesn’t work well, I can try the dormans.
(Correct me if I am wrong) As long as the Dormans fit the same 9 1/2 drum all is well?. All I need to do for those is drill a couple holes from what I can see. Advanced Auto says that they will not fit my vehicle, but they look similar.
Really appreciate the help, and advice guys.
Hey Ukroz,
I think I may try the repair first. A little love, and JB weld should hold them together nicely. If that doesn’t work well, I can try the dormans.
(Correct me if I am wrong) As long as the Dormans fit the same 9 1/2 drum all is well?. All I need to do for those is drill a couple holes from what I can see. Advanced Auto says that they will not fit my vehicle, but they look similar.
Really appreciate the help, and advice guys.
Hey Guys,
I called the manufacture and they said they are discontinued, but I got the old part numbers to see if anyone else had them, and no luck…
LEFT 18012021 RIGHT 18012022
I’m stumped on this one lol…
Hey Guys,
I called the manufacture and they said they are discontinued, but I got the old part numbers to see if anyone else had them, and no luck…
LEFT 18012021 RIGHT 18012022
I’m stumped on this one lol…
Hey ToyotaKarl,
I would love to get new ones, and hate having to use the old ones, but no luck finding them. I am not sure what other years would work, but the ones that look kinda similar don’t have the splash shield on the back like mine do. Basically just the backing plate only.
I have a 95 Chevy S10 2.2L Vin# 1gccs144xs8127854
The reason I didn’t really care so much is, I actually didn’t think I would have such an issue getting new ones. I will never do that again until i’m 100% sure.
I guess the whole thing about manufactures only required to make replacement parts for 10 years got me this time.
I found these, but they look a little off
http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/dorman-oe-solutions-brake-dust-shield-pair-924-220/10301413-P?searchTerm=backing+plateAgain no splash shield on this type.
Appreciate the advice and help.