[Félix]

Thanks everyone for the advice.

So I can conclude that there is no short circuit (no blown fuse) and no problem with the ground.
I do have sockets that have moisture and are a bit corroded but like I said the taillights do work before I turn the engine on. The gasket on the left taillight assembly is weak and lets in water (but like I said I changed the bulbs a month ago and all the lights worked except one of the reverse lights.

Is it really relevant to check the headlight switch when the problem is with the taillights? Or is there a taillight switch?

[Félix]

Thanks everyone for the advice.

So I can conclude that there is no short circuit (no blown fuse) and no problem with the ground.
I do have sockets that have moisture and are a bit corroded but like I said the taillights do work before I turn the engine on. The gasket on the left taillight assembly is weak and lets in water (but like I said I changed the bulbs a month ago and all the lights worked except one of the reverse lights.

Is it really relevant to check the headlight switch when the problem is with the taillights? Or is there a taillight switch?

[Félix]

Ahh this is what I’m talking about. I think I’ll just chalk the whole thing up as a mystry of life, not change my fluid and not ask for trouble.

Thanks everyone.

Since I last logged in, I tried changing my rear drum brakes, struggled for a while with the first drum only to realise that the parking brake was on, and finishing without any sunlight. Now I have a rubbing noise… Thing is with drum brakes it seems like no tutorial will work unless you actually have your brakes open in front of you.

[Félix]

Ahh this is what I’m talking about. I think I’ll just chalk the whole thing up as a mystry of life, not change my fluid and not ask for trouble.

Thanks everyone.

Since I last logged in, I tried changing my rear drum brakes, struggled for a while with the first drum only to realise that the parking brake was on, and finishing without any sunlight. Now I have a rubbing noise… Thing is with drum brakes it seems like no tutorial will work unless you actually have your brakes open in front of you.

[Félix]

Wow that is a thorough answer. Thanks alot and I will try the Amsoil if I can get my hands on it.

Felix

[Félix]

Wow that is a thorough answer. Thanks alot and I will try the Amsoil if I can get my hands on it.

Felix

[Félix]

Thanks.

So you’re saying there is no chance that the Amsoil could cause damage to my maybe worn transmission?
There’s a lot of nightmare stories of people who go out of spec on the manual fluid.

I am really not looking for any gain, just preventative maintenance and not causing any unnecessary wear.

Felix.

[Félix]

Thanks.

So you’re saying there is no chance that the Amsoil could cause damage to my maybe worn transmission?
There’s a lot of nightmare stories of people who go out of spec on the manual fluid.

I am really not looking for any gain, just preventative maintenance and not causing any unnecessary wear.

Felix.

[Félix]

Ok thanks but I will word my questions differently.

1. I dont know what kind of transmission fluid I have in my 1990 manual Civic, and it has probably been there for a while.
Do I go with the spec 10w30, Honda MTF, or is it best to leave it?

2. My engine overheated badly in bumper to bumper traffic because the FAN doesn’t come on. It overheated to a point where coolant spilled out of the reservoir and the engine didnt rev down when I released the pedal after pulling over. The car runs fine but was there any damage to the engine? Do I have to change the oil or spark plugs…?

Felix

[Félix]

Ok thanks but I will word my questions differently.

1. I dont know what kind of transmission fluid I have in my 1990 manual Civic, and it has probably been there for a while.
Do I go with the spec 10w30, Honda MTF, or is it best to leave it?

2. My engine overheated badly in bumper to bumper traffic because the FAN doesn’t come on. It overheated to a point where coolant spilled out of the reservoir and the engine didnt rev down when I released the pedal after pulling over. The car runs fine but was there any damage to the engine? Do I have to change the oil or spark plugs…?

Felix

[Félix]

Thanks.
The part about transmission fluid helps a bit, basically always go with Honda MTF but is that also true for the older cars? Mine is a 1990.
And what if it has been running on 10w30 for years, is it a good idea to switch for Honda MTF now?

About the overheating, I am not actually looking for the cause of the overheating, which I know, but for the damage that could have been caused by it, if any.

[Félix]

Thanks.
The part about transmission fluid helps a bit, basically always go with Honda MTF but is that also true for the older cars? Mine is a 1990.
And what if it has been running on 10w30 for years, is it a good idea to switch for Honda MTF now?

About the overheating, I am not actually looking for the cause of the overheating, which I know, but for the damage that could have been caused by it, if any.

[Félix]

Thank you sir.
No I meant 65k miles, so it’s about 105 000km, but it’s still running pretty much like new. I think I really exaggerated on the sludge issue. It really isn’t that bad but I was looking for a reason to clean up things. Just changed the timing belt so I took off the valve cover and it’s all shiny inside.
I’m looking into the liqui moly treatment. I was already thinking of using the seafoam one, but I’ll trust you on this. I figure the only place I’ll be able to find this here is at an Audi service.
And I had no idea you could use diesel oil in a regular car. I think I’ll stick to Castrol though, I do my oil changes very often and don’t drive much to begin with.

And in Quebec the potholes hurt your car, but I can tell you my first car was never the same after being through the Rockies out west. It came out with half the power it had and a slipping transmission!

Edit : and with the treatment, being an older car, don’t I have to worry about damage to seals or leaking?

[Félix]

Thank you sir.
No I meant 65k miles, so it’s about 105 000km, but it’s still running pretty much like new. I think I really exaggerated on the sludge issue. It really isn’t that bad but I was looking for a reason to clean up things. Just changed the timing belt so I took off the valve cover and it’s all shiny inside.
I’m looking into the liqui moly treatment. I was already thinking of using the seafoam one, but I’ll trust you on this. I figure the only place I’ll be able to find this here is at an Audi service.
And I had no idea you could use diesel oil in a regular car. I think I’ll stick to Castrol though, I do my oil changes very often and don’t drive much to begin with.

And in Quebec the potholes hurt your car, but I can tell you my first car was never the same after being through the Rockies out west. It came out with half the power it had and a slipping transmission!

Edit : and with the treatment, being an older car, don’t I have to worry about damage to seals or leaking?

[Félix]

Okay then, I will get the 30$ Honda one. They are the metal ones that screw directly into the manifold without a grommet.

Thanks.

[Author]

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