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Engaging or disengaging the clutch without being in gear does not cause any noise.
I think it might take a week of driving to really identify the situations when the noise occurs.
But this sounds very expensive, especially for this car that I’ve found is usually cheap to fix.Thanks alot barneyb and I’ll update if I have more questions.
Thanks for the reply.
I think the noises would be normal on another older car but considering this one barely has 66 000 miles,
is generally very tough and reliable, how committed I am to having it run forever and the fact that the noises are new, I’m not sure they’re normal. Maybe they are impossible to diagnose over the internet though.I adjusted the clutch this morning and drove more carefully and no noises were heard.
Is the throwout bearing something that can be undertaken as a DIY, and what should be the cost, both shop and DIY, in your opinion?Thanks for the reply.
I think the noises would be normal on another older car but considering this one barely has 66 000 miles,
is generally very tough and reliable, how committed I am to having it run forever and the fact that the noises are new, I’m not sure they’re normal. Maybe they are impossible to diagnose over the internet though.I adjusted the clutch this morning and drove more carefully and no noises were heard.
Is the throwout bearing something that can be undertaken as a DIY, and what should be the cost, both shop and DIY, in your opinion?I envy those who are able to logically trace back their car problems to their cause.
For now I can only rely on your videos and your members’ knowledge on here such as ToyotaKarl, Barneyb and CollegeMan who it seems are very consistent with their advice.
So thanks alot, fixed quite a few things thanks to your videos and it is very empowering.I have a question, while you are online.
My stock 1990 Civic overheated while I was in a traffic jam 2 months ago. I know it is the fan or fan relay.
But I was wondering if this could have damaged my engine. It got pretty much to the top of the gauge before I could park, and when I backed up into a spot the engine didn’t rev down after I let the gas pedal go, until I shut off the engine. Coolant was overflowing on the ground a bit.
Since then, it has driven fine. Is it fine or is the engine’s life shortened?Thanks.
BoisclairI envy those who are able to logically trace back their car problems to their cause.
For now I can only rely on your videos and your members’ knowledge on here such as ToyotaKarl, Barneyb and CollegeMan who it seems are very consistent with their advice.
So thanks alot, fixed quite a few things thanks to your videos and it is very empowering.I have a question, while you are online.
My stock 1990 Civic overheated while I was in a traffic jam 2 months ago. I know it is the fan or fan relay.
But I was wondering if this could have damaged my engine. It got pretty much to the top of the gauge before I could park, and when I backed up into a spot the engine didn’t rev down after I let the gas pedal go, until I shut off the engine. Coolant was overflowing on the ground a bit.
Since then, it has driven fine. Is it fine or is the engine’s life shortened?Thanks.
BoisclairSo…
Problem is fixed. I didn’t go through the trouble of soldering a running light relay because I couldn’t find it.
While I was there I just tried pulling the running light fuse and now my lights work when turned on.Thanks everyone
So…
Problem is fixed. I didn’t go through the trouble of soldering a running light relay because I couldn’t find it.
While I was there I just tried pulling the running light fuse and now my lights work when turned on.Thanks everyone
So you are saying this is definitely a possiblity in my case.
What I will try to do is first of all locate the correct relay, and since I’ve had success with the ETCG’s method at repairing soldering points on relays I will try that.
Also, is there a way to disable whatever links the handbrake to the running lights?
Thanks.
Will update after I try.So you are saying this is definitely a possiblity in my case.
What I will try to do is first of all locate the correct relay, and since I’ve had success with the ETCG’s method at repairing soldering points on relays I will try that.
Also, is there a way to disable whatever links the handbrake to the running lights?
Thanks.
Will update after I try.Yes my car is quite old, a 1990 Honda. Both my taillight and brake light have two filaments.
But how would the corrosion and moisture on one side stop the taillights on the other side from working?
Update : the lights work fine even with engine on, until i release the parking brake
Update 2 : I have found a poster on the internet who notices the same symptoms as me and has fixed the issue by changing his running light relay. Does it make any sense that it would be linked to the handbrake?
Yes my car is quite old, a 1990 Honda. Both my taillight and brake light have two filaments.
But how would the corrosion and moisture on one side stop the taillights on the other side from working?
Update : the lights work fine even with engine on, until i release the parking brake
Update 2 : I have found a poster on the internet who notices the same symptoms as me and has fixed the issue by changing his running light relay. Does it make any sense that it would be linked to the handbrake?
Ok thanks. My bulbs are new so I don’t think there should be an issue there.
I will clean the corrosion and try again.
So you do not think it is a light switch problem? And if it was, which of the light switches you mentioned control the taillights?
Thanks
Ok thanks. My bulbs are new so I don’t think there should be an issue there.
I will clean the corrosion and try again.
So you do not think it is a light switch problem? And if it was, which of the light switches you mentioned control the taillights?
Thanks
Haha you are right, my mistake. You say this like I’m trying to lie. It is true that that the lights turn off when I drive away. But would that happen every single time if it was only a matter of vibration?
The wiring looks fine to me but I am no expert.
Also, the driver side taillight only wasn’t sealed properly and took water. The fittings on this side only are corroded. Would that stop the taillight on passenger side (which hasn’t been damaged by water at all) to work?
Haha you are right, my mistake. You say this like I’m trying to lie. It is true that that the lights turn off when I drive away. But would that happen every single time if it was only a matter of vibration?
The wiring looks fine to me but I am no expert.
Also, the driver side taillight only wasn’t sealed properly and took water. The fittings on this side only are corroded. Would that stop the taillight on passenger side (which hasn’t been damaged by water at all) to work?
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