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UPDATE 2 : I forgot to mention that my car could not circulate because it needed to pass inspection, so I didn’t know exactly how it would behave on the roads. It passed inspection on monday morning and I could drive it to work. I also did a pressure test and the pressure dropped from 15.1 PSI to about 14.9 PSI in 4 minutes. The tester I used was from work and I think it was made for trucks so the cap wasn’t 100% airtight.
On the way to work (30 min drive) it reached operating temperature unusually fast and I had to stop 5 times to let it cool down because it was overheating badly. The top radiator hose was very hot and the bottom one wasn’t hot at all so I figured it’s the thermostat. I took the thermostat out, put whatever coolant I had left (1/4 coolant, 3/4 water) and bled the system for a while and it didn’t over heat.
My question is though, how come the temperature gauge indicates the exact same operating temp as when it’s running with a thermostat and 50/50 coolant water?
Update: Can’t believe I messed this up but what happened is I was exhausted after the headgasket job and I didn’t burp the cooling system properly. This morning I started the engine, turn on the heat and pinched the hoses and a lot of air came out. It seems to be all out now but there is still water coming out the exhaust after about 20 mins total of idling. Going to do a pressure test when I have time.
Hi, and thanks for your input. I might do the block test but like Toyota Karl said I think I’m going to do the cooling system pressure test first.
I think I was bleeding the coolant, the radiator cap was off and I had a funnel with coolant in it. Is it enough? I know this car is always fussy about the bleeding and I might need to pinch hoses and turn the heat on.
Could it be water left from before I changed the gasket? I just changed the oil and coolant at the end of the gasket job and there was no sign of either mixing.
Yes I brushed the bolts clean, put a dab of oil and torqued them to spec in the right order. I don’t know if they’re TTY head bolts.
I did but now I wish I inspected it better. But anyway why would it overheat now when it didn’t before?
And could the water coming out of the exhaust be the STP fuel system cleaner I poured in the gas tank?
Thanks for the input.
Although I have changed my thermostat and bled the coolant once or twice recently, I really think the fan relay is at fault because the engine overheated only a few times when the fan should have been on but wasn’t (traffic).
Thanks for the input.
Although I have changed my thermostat and bled the coolant once or twice recently, I really think the fan relay is at fault because the engine overheated only a few times when the fan should have been on but wasn’t (traffic).
Seems like I will have to.
I was putting off doing this because the switch is in such an impractical spot that it is very hard to get the connectors back on the posts, when you don’t have a lift.Is it even possible that this setup could work without a relay?
Seems like I will have to.
I was putting off doing this because the switch is in such an impractical spot that it is very hard to get the connectors back on the posts, when you don’t have a lift.Is it even possible that this setup could work without a relay?
Thanks but it doesnt help. I had seen this and there is someone with the same problem as me who can’t locate their relay.
Forgot to mention my car doesn’t have AC so it has only one fan on the radiator.
Thanks but it doesnt help. I had seen this and there is someone with the same problem as me who can’t locate their relay.
Forgot to mention my car doesn’t have AC so it has only one fan on the radiator.
Engaging or disengaging the clutch without being in gear does not cause any noise.
I think it might take a week of driving to really identify the situations when the noise occurs.
But this sounds very expensive, especially for this car that I’ve found is usually cheap to fix.Thanks alot barneyb and I’ll update if I have more questions.