Forum Replies Created
-
AuthorReplies
-
I really appreciate everybody’s comments on my car’s issue!
I had done nothing out of the ordinary. This brake loss event was purely random and during my normal commute. As Bonnieman mentioned, no recent brake work to introduce air into the lines (I last did brake work by replacing the drums two years ago as well as replacing brake fluid that same day).
I’m going ahead and ordering a new master cylinder to be on the safe side (thank you Bonnieman for recommended brands). I think they’re around $60-$80 online. It is strange though as I would think a failing master cylinder would permanently not work again, not temporary as in my case. But this is why I’m leaning on all of your experiences 🙂
I’ll be sure to update this thread at some point after I replace the master cylinder. Thanks again everyone!
Thanks for the info. So I’ve actually last flushed the brake fluid at all 4 wheels and replaced with Genuine Honda brake fluid two years ago.
Any ideas on how moisture can get into the lines/fluid?
Thank you very much for everybody’s input! You all saved me a bunch of money for what could have been a bent valve.
Eric, is there anyway to add what appears to be a common situation to the vmanual? I would have incorrectly thought to bring the cam all the way back around given how much emphasis is put on the engine rotation direction of clockwise.
So I rolled the rear cam from 2 o’clock back to TDC and did not go 360 degrees back around. Before i got the rear cam to TDC, I overshot the mark and it actually went past 12 o’clock (TDC) and sprung to 10 o’clock. So i had to bring it back the other direction and it stayed put at TDC. The resistance to get it back to TDC was quite a bit, sort of felt like using the serpentine belt tool on the auto-tensioner drive belt pulley. Maybe that was because I had your average size 17mm wrench on the cam pulley bolt.
I did do the rear cam trick of being almost one tooth ahead, putting belt on, then rolling back to TDC. This trick makes it easier only if those timing belt guide prongs get in the way of putting the belt on. Got the tension I needed between the front and rear cams (felt like same tension between crank/idler/front cam).
Engine runs normal and sounds normal. Hardest part was making 100% sure I was dead-on TDC on the 3 pulleys. I decided to trust the 2 cam marks with the top plastic covers removed and the crank mark with the bottom plastic cover installed. I ignored the other possible marks due to getting mixed results (at one point the front cam looked a hair ahead while front cam plastic cover mark looked behind). The rear cam was the toughest to tell given the angles for a 2006 Honda Pilot. Nevertheless I rolled the engine over a few times to ensure all 3 marks were dead-on TDC.
One last note for readers on the Honda crank bolt. If you can’t get that bolt off with air tools, below is a picture of my setup. 3 cement blocks (couple rags on top for added height), 19mm impact socket, Honda crank bolt rental tool attached to a 2nd break bar using the ground to hold it in place. Be ready for a loud CRACK!
Attachments:I think it’s best to get multiple opinions on this.
Thanks for the link college man. Reading through that other thread, it actually looks like the poster was incorrect in turning the Rear Cam Pulley Bolt Clockwise on a J-series and bent a valve. Although the correct direction on the Crank with the timing belt completely on is Clockwise, I’m thinking I need to go Counter-Clockwise from 2 o’clock back to 12 o’clock TDC mark with the belt off on the Rear Cam Pulley Bolt.
I don’t think I incurred damage at this point based on Eric’s comment of this being a relatively common instance to spring to 2 o’clock on the Rear Cam. I just need to be 100% sure on how to fix this.
What should I do as far as re-doing everything? I still have the belt off ready to get Rear Cam to TDC but don’t know the safest approach. Service Manual doesn’t cover this situation.
2a) Which direction should I turn the Rear Cam to get back to TDC? It sprung to 2 o’clock.
2b) Should I be turning the Rear Cam Pulley with my bare hands back to TDC or should I use a wrench on the Rear Cam Pulley Bolt?
2c) How much resistance should I feel when doing so?
2d) As I turn the Rear Cam Pulley, should I suspect the spring-action to happen again?Actually, I just noticed the universal O’Reilly bottle says yellow even though it pours out green! There is a reference chart on o’reilly’s website that calls it yellow too.
I’d rather just use the Honda blue but don’t want my engine to die because they mixed.
I just wanted to post my fix. Great points were made on just replacing the entire line. The line was rusty from the front of my car to the back.
I went ahead and bought the following:
+5/16″ nylon line made by dorman. I determined the diameter that I needed by simply seeing which of my wrenches fit onto the fuel feed line. 8mm = 0.314 inches.
+2 steel to nylon brass adapters made by dorman.
+Fuel filter.
+5/16″ steel line with the fitting that goes into the bottom of the fuel filter. Also made by dorman.
+Tubing cutter (bought the 7pc set from Harbor Freight).
+Heat gun in order to fit the nylon line onto the adapters.
Before beginning be sure to relieve all fuel pressure! I described how to do this in my original post.
Replacing the line was easier than I thought. I first lifted the back seat bottom cushion up enough to gain access to the access plate. Only one 10mm bolt needed to be removed that was tucked in between the bottom cushion and the back cushion in the back seat. You might find a couple dollars worth of change or some really old McDonalds monopoly pieces like I did.
4 phillips head screws needed removed to open the access plate. Under this plate is where the fuel pump can be replaced if needed. I removed the quick connect fitting from this small fuel feed pipe. The small fuel feed pipe is what goes into the tank (or pump, not sure). A diagram is in the Honda Service Manual which you should find for a 99 civic somewhere on the internet.
I then fed the nylon line through the access plate area to the left side of the car where the fuel feed line is exposed. I got my steel to nylon adapter ready along with the nylon line. By hand, I fit the nylon as far as it would go on the fitting (not far) and worked it on by heating the nylon end with a heat gun and pushing it on, repeating until the nylon line was all the way on the adapter.
With the compression fitting, I fit the steel side of the adapter onto the fuel feed pipe underneath the access plate, tightening down as far as I could without breaking the fuel feed pipe.
I fed the nylon line along side the brake lines/fuel lines that run along the bottom. I wrapped zip ties around the nylon line and the other lines to support it.
I wont walk through how to replace a fuel filter. I actually did this part before starting underneath the back seat. The Honda Service Manual describes this in detail. Be sure to use a flare nut wrench for the line.
I cut the new steel line to only less than a foot. This is where the flared end went into the new fuel filter and the other end I cut with tubing cutter which would later fit onto the steel to nylon adapter.
Then I pulled the nylon line up around the sway bar through the components underneath the hood. I cut the nylon line where I was going to connect the new steel line to, being sure I had a little bit of slack just in case I screwed up the steel to nylon connection. I kept the old line underneath the hood and rested it on the upper side of the fuel filter for whatever reason.
I tightened everything down, put the fuel filler cap back on, and made sure I had no leaks. First I tried just turning the key to the ON position to just run the fuel pump without starting the car. I did have to further tighten the steel line adapter under the hood.
Everything still works. I actually just started driving my car more regularly today. I was lazy and let my car sit a while outside before doing this repair. Rust was not nice to me and I had to replace both the front disc brakes and rear drum brakes since the car was sitting a while.
I guess the only downside to using nylon might be that the possibility of the line getting kinked up is a little greater. Im not sure. I just didn’t want to deal with bending steel lines myself.
Sorry for the long post. I hope this helps somebody looking to replace fuel line since there isn’t much material on doing such a repair like I did. God bless.
I just wanted to post my fix. It ended up being a worn rack and I replaced with a new one. With the old rack out, I could put my hand on the pinion and feel the play when turning it back and forth so no doubt that was the issue.
A couple key learnings. First is I have a manual transmission while ETCG worked on an automatic 99 Honda civic in his video. The torque bar AND the bar going from the shifter to the transmission (sorry don’t know the name) needed lowered, along with the exhaust, to get the racks in/out.
The second learning could have cost me having to buy another new rack if it wasn’t for how nice the parts store was. When turning back in the bolt from the high pressure line to the new rack, I ruined the threading in the new rack because I wasn’t lined up straight with the hole. You should be able to turn this bolt most of the way easily by hand. I started almost immediately with a flare nut wrench. Rookie mistake on my part.
Lastly, be careful when turning out the mounting bolts. I broke one and luckily was able to drill out the remaining pieces in the hole and replace with a new bolt.
I hope this helps anyone looking to replace their steering rack. Thanks for everyone’s help!
Ha-ha sorry. See my edit.
OK and one last thing on the leak. Is there a possibility that this is something other than transmission fluid? I was thinking it could be some sort of grease from the axle shaft assembly itself (if such a thing exists) since transmission fluid is red. The substance is pretty thick in a couple spots like grease.
Thanks! Do I need to also replace the driver-side axle?
-
AuthorReplies