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Bunk. Neithe Ford nor GM can insist you cease and desist unless they have a patent.
Bunk. Engine life span is not shortened. Apparently you’re not up to date on how many cars are accumulating hundreds of thousands of miles without isseus.
As a mechanic of 40 years+ (import cars, aircraft, and motorcycles) I can tell you that almost all engine problems are caused by one of several things. Overheating and not stopping, running the engine out of oil, or not changing the motor oil often enough.
Only on the internet do things like the stoichiometric ratio become meaningless….
Possibly a faulty ignition switch. This is a common problem. I believe you car is under a recall for this issue. You might call the Honda dealer and provide them the VIN. If the recall has never been done before you should be able to have this done for free.
The contacts in the switch degrade to high current draw through the switch. The biggest part of the current draw is the fuel pump. With age, miles, and possibly partially clogged fuel filters the current can be even higher than normal.
It’s not hate speech. It’s a matter of some people not being gullible enough to fall for it.
IF, and I say IF for the sake of discussion, this gadget actually worked one of two things would happen.
1. If there is no patent on it then car makers and everyone else would have stolen the idea years ago and integrated it into every IC engine on the planet; holding a patent themselves of course.
2. If there IS a patent then said car makers would have been at war with each other while trying to see who would offer you the most billions of dollars for the idea.
With billions in hand you would not need a website to peddle this bunk. Instead you would be laid back on the beaches of Hawaii sipping on a Mai Tai without a care in the world instead of “modifying cars”.
Timing belts are cheap. Engine top end repairs due to a broken timing belt on your interference fit engine are far from cheap.
Any belt replacement should also include idlers/ tensioners, water pump, and preferably crank and cam seals at the same time.
My 1998 Sonoma (4.3) has a distributor cap.
No matter; a coil pack makes it easier. Spray the entire coil pack liberally with WD-40.Yes, Subarus came back with a lot of issues no matter how much good press was given to them.
Not widely known, but back in the 80s most Subarus had their air conditioners installed at the ports where the car arrived. They were done by 2 man teams; one guy under the hood and the other inside the car.
They got paid something like 40 bucks a car (20 each) and could knock out an A/C install in 45 minutes. There was a 90 day warranty on this “factory air conditioning”.
You can imagine the problems this caused with install problems and worst of all; the fact that many cars sat on the lot leaking refrigerant for 90 days or with some wiring screwup.
This meant the A/C warranty was up before the car was even sold….Just an FYI, but most parts on all cars are actually aftermarket. Brakes, clutches, FI parts, all electrical, seats, transmissions, you name it.
That includes timing components.Many times the OEM and aftermarket are manufactured by the same people. The only difference is the ink stamp on the part or the packaging.
More than likely moisture is getting inside the distibutor cap. This problem can be somewhat common in areas with certain climatic conditions involving a high dew point.
The cap and distributor are mated together tightly so moisture can’t get in you say? Yes, it can no matter how tightly it is sealed.
You might try removing the cap and spraying the inside and outside of the cap with WD-40 or wipe it down with an electrolytic grease. That should take care of the problem.
I’ve seen this a number of times over the years but recently went through it with my Sonoma.
Environmental conditions play a part in what may be needed. One thing for sure is that the old gas needs to come out and replaced with fresh gasoline.
This is NOT a Corvette thing….In some cases old gas can kill the fuel pump; either immediately or after a short time in operation.
I take a little offense with your comment about being “sooooo tired of getting ripped off”.
So explain who and how you were ripped off…..Where did you check the voltage while the engine was running; the battery terminals?
Turn the key to the RUN position with the engine not started. The dash battery light should be on. Touch the alternator pulley with the tip of a screwdriver.
You should feel the magnetic attraction of the pulley.If the pulley is magnetized you need to check the wiring between the alt. and battery. Maybe the fusible link has popped.
It takes more than a diploma to make a mechanic.Some people graduate and don’t have the faintest clue as to where to begin with a car problem.
I’m not accusing you of being ignorant so please don’t take it that way. My comment is simply based on my experience with a couple of guys who had 2 years and an Associates Degree and absolutely no clue.
One had a 2 year degree in diesel technology and had no (seriously) idea that the glow plugs needed to work to starte the engine.
I agree that a local tech school is best. Avoid those overpriced BS artists that advertise on TV all the time and who will leave you seriously in debt.
I’ve always disconnected the wire connector at the switch and used a jumper across the connector. (jumper wire, paper clip, etc)
Once you get a can or half a can in that should be sufficient enough to engage the compressor so remove the jumper and plug it back onto the switch.
Just my 2 cents for what it’s worth. Your engine should have a timing belt, not a chain. The engine is an interference fit which means the cylinder intake valves (usually) bend when a belt breaks. This will cause a zero compression situation due to the cylinder head damage.
This does NOT mean the engine is wiped out. Only that the top end (heads) are damaged. Very, very seldom does this damage the lower end beyond redemption. Usually the pistons get nicked up but those nicks can be smoothed out before reassembly with repaired or reman heads.
Used engines are a crap shoot and it’s been my experience that about 30-40% of used engines, transmissions, or rear axles have issues ranging from small to major. That’s a big gamble not in your favor.
What would I at least consider? Maybe another pair of cylinder heads and a timing chain kit while reusing your current lower end; meaning the engine block.
I agree with oldskll; and I say that as a long time “foreign car” (mostly Asian) mechanic who spent 40 to 50 hours a week fixing them…….
They break down, have recalls, chronic problems, and countless TSBs just like any other car on the road.
It chapped me to no end to hear someone going on about Hondas (to use one example) being problem free and never having any issues while I’m in the shop 5 to 6 days a week fixing those Hondas.
And Subaru? I won’t even go there……..That 350 dollars may not be expensive at all. You have failed to state exactly what was done.
Yes, there are mobile mechanics in some areas who will service a car at home or wherever but there are potential issues with doing this.
The dealer did NOT “make” you wait 2 hours. Depending upon the repair which was not spelled out 2 hours could have been a very short time. Do you think every repair can be done in 10 minutes flat……